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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-12-2014 05:22 AM
Hoppy I don't believe that ADA Aquasoil holds H2O2 for a long period of time, if at all. Aquasoil probably has a good CEC, cation exchange capacity, which means it holds onto positive ions, usually metallic ions, but there are no cations with H2O2. I agree with Seattle Aquarist, above. Just start the tank over, with new plants, and well cleaned.
01-11-2014 07:50 PM
Chiller619 I have a tank with algae. Tank was great. Tests were all great. 3 rounds of H2O2 dosing at 1ml per gallon and now my nitrite levels are through the ROOF. My API master test kit doesn't even return colors. It just forms a message in the vial that says "good luck." I feel your pain.
01-17-2013 04:04 PM
HD Blazingwolf i'd keep the media
its like a roman empire that grows and evolves with ur tank.. DONT DESTROY IT
it will deffinitely speed up the time it takes for aquasoil's ammonia to be converted to nitrates
01-16-2013 12:09 PM
happi new soil is on the way, hoepfully things goes well this time. should i throw away the filter media from this tank, am guessing it might be effected with H2O2?? but i highly doubt it.
01-14-2013 06:09 PM
talontsiawd I don't know what the issue is. However, before you do anything you feel is drastic to your substrate, try just poking it with a BBQ skewer/chopstick. Every time I have had a substrate issue, it would have a nasty smell. You may have air bubbles as well, should only be concerning if it smells nasty as with all that H2O2, it wouldn't be surprising if you have air bubbles trapped. I am not saying that this is an end all test, but if you get a nasty smell after stirring it up slightly, that does mean something is wrong, and you don't have to tear up what is there.
01-10-2013 09:44 PM
wkndracer
Quote:
Originally Posted by funkman262 View Post
Catalase is produced by virtually ALL aerobic bacteria, and I'm hoping that you realize that the nitrifying bacteria within our aquaria ARE in fact aerobic. It is also known that the specific bacteria in our aquaria, such as nitrosomonas, do produce that enzyme. Thank you though for that single data point that entirely proves your point. (very nice) It must be impossible that the poster in that link dosed the peroxide too close to the filter intake so that the peroxide entered the filter at a barely diluted concentration (in other words, much greater than the 6 mL per gallon of 3% peroxide or 50 mg/L after COMPLETELY mixing with all of the tank water) thus being much greater than can be tolerated by the bacteria (yes, even those that produce catalase).
Thank you so much for providing information that answered questions that have been troubling me in such an informative manner. Years of reading and playing with water boxes I had no idea, somehow missed what must be important.

Your welcome for 'that single datapoint' in the second post. It was simply a recent thread post that I read earlier in the week where the poster blamed it for damage to his cycle bacteria. I have no more information than you do on how the H2O2 was applied in the treatment. But it's not the first post of chemical drama I've read nor do I expect it to be the last. The only point I'm posting to 'prove anything' is that people tanking fish and plants kill a large number of things with it,,, and often.
another one;
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=178738

What's on the web? (Tons of reading if you print it and most is a mix of fact and opinion)
Overdosing peroxide can kill so I try to use it VERY conservatively! As Tom Bar was saying on The Barr Report, “besides gassing fish with too much CO2, Peroxide seems to kill the most, followed by Excel overdosing”. Seen this way, I will certainly not be one of those who dose
2 or 3ml per gallon.

It is sensitive to light and rapidly breaks down in its presence.

Dilute concentrations added to the tank water can kill all bacteria in the water, including the nitrifying bacteria. It will also kill all micro-organisms, good and bad.

In water, hydrogen peroxide's half-life ranges from 8 hours to about 20 days.
http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/...eroxide.html#0
http://www.malawicichlidhomepage.com..._peroxide.html
http://www.h2o2.com/
http://reefbuilders.com/2010/03/29/u...algae-removal/
http://jonesjdavid.com/ENG1_2PLeasid...mBasicsQs9.pdf
http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/26870...ove-it/page-33
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/f...-peroxide.html

23 quick search threads on TPT.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...highlight=h2o2 (you've been here)


Reaction in low TDS acidic water, tank water with high DOC, filthy substrate etc.
There are probably thousands of threads regarding hydrogen peroxide use, I'm sure you would find objection within the posted remarks of most.
I said aerobic bacteria including the mentioned nitrosomonas are only a small part of what's in the tank, "they are few in number respectively as it relates to freshwater aquariums" and (imo) they are.
H2O2 won't even touch myco and bleach ratios strong enough to kill it break down tank seals so it depends on what your after what you use, and how much of it.

It's been years since I had a foobar using it.
Thanks again for providing information and the time spent responding.
01-10-2013 03:42 PM
funkman262
Quote:
Originally Posted by flc View Post
That's pretty much the classic diagnostic test for aerobic bacteria- add H202 and watch it fizz. Anything that "breathes" oxygen has it in spades, since peroxide is formed in huge amounts as a side product. If organisms (including animals and plants) didn't have a way to deal with it, they'd off themselves fairly quickly.

Superoxide dismutase and catalase. Don't respire without them!
Glad to see someone else here with a basic understanding of the enzymatic decomposition of peroxides
01-10-2013 02:53 PM
flc
Quote:
Originally Posted by funkman262 View Post
Yes, aerobic bacteria can be resistant to peroxide (as I already discussed)...
That's pretty much the classic diagnostic test for aerobic bacteria- add H202 and watch it fizz. Anything that "breathes" oxygen has it in spades, since peroxide is formed in huge amounts as a side product. If organisms (including animals and plants) didn't have a way to deal with it, they'd off themselves fairly quickly.

Superoxide dismutase and catalase. Don't respire without them!
01-10-2013 01:29 AM
HD Blazingwolf Highly possible, and i guess if u really stop and think about it. Heat does do a lot of stuff
01-09-2013 11:13 PM
DarkCobra Humic acid is not a single substance, but a broad mix of organic components.

Even at 100°C, some of it is breaking down. About half is gone at 300°C. By 400°C, almost all of it is gone.

As far as I know, ADA has never revealed to what temperature their substrate is heated.

But I'd consider the breakdown rate a good a clue. If I had to compare the reported breakdown rate and softness of AS to a known, it would be kitty litter, which is fired to 1,000°C. Or maybe akadama, 800°C.

I know of no other method than heat to slow the breakdown rate of clay to the lifetime AS achieves. And though I hate to bring it up, there's a certain amount of "magic" I've observed surrounding the ADA products and culture, rather than just science.

So, while I am certainly making a few assumptions, I think this is probably one of those times when "organic" is being used to appeal to a certain group of people, rather than truly descriptive of the substrate. While the ingredients that were put in were organic, what comes out of the oven may not be so.
01-09-2013 10:37 PM
HD Blazingwolf
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkCobra View Post
I've heard that "fired dirt" analogy before.

I think that firing the clay component to any temperature sufficiently high that the substrate doesn't fall apart way too fast, would also be sufficient to break down most organic components. Sure, the nutrients are still there, nothing short of nuclear processes destroys elements. But in the end, I doubt AS can truly be classified as organic.
its loaded with hemic acid, aka humus,
that is its main buffering compound
01-09-2013 10:15 PM
DarkCobra
Quote:
Originally Posted by HD Blazingwolf View Post
to cobra, aqua soil is loaded with organics, it is not inert, nor inorganic
its basically fired dirt IMO.
I've heard that "fired dirt" analogy before.

I think that firing the clay component to any temperature sufficiently high that the substrate doesn't fall apart way too fast, would also be sufficient to break down most organic components. Sure, the nutrients are still there, nothing short of nuclear processes destroys elements. But in the end, I doubt AS can truly be classified as organic.
01-09-2013 07:20 PM
HD Blazingwolf 5ppm of ammo can melt some plants, keep that in mind especially if its contained around the roots

that being said. buying more AS is probably easier
01-09-2013 06:29 PM
happi
Quote:
Originally Posted by HD Blazingwolf View Post
to cobra, aqua soil is loaded with organics, it is not inert, nor inorganic
its basically fired dirt IMO.

that being said even if it absorbed the h202, it would break down over time. i think the root cause to melted plants is as some have interpretted.
dead bacteria, = ammonia. too much ammonia can melt a plant

carefully done gravel vac's on aqua soil are OKAY. don't just ram it into the susbrate, but gently wiggle it around, it'll do the job, aquasoil is light and is easily fluffed around by the siphon
i know ammonia can melt plants, but it has to be in higher levels, if we think about it, when setting up a aqua soil tank, people add lots of plants without any melting etc.

i know ada soil will break down sooner or later, but i don't want to waste my time on plants if they are going to die, i think i might look into buying more aqua soil and restart everything.
01-09-2013 04:01 PM
HD Blazingwolf to cobra, aqua soil is loaded with organics, it is not inert, nor inorganic
its basically fired dirt IMO.

that being said even if it absorbed the h202, it would break down over time. i think the root cause to melted plants is as some have interpretted.
dead bacteria, = ammonia. too much ammonia can melt a plant

carefully done gravel vac's on aqua soil are OKAY. don't just ram it into the susbrate, but gently wiggle it around, it'll do the job, aquasoil is light and is easily fluffed around by the siphon
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