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Thread: 3rd attempt at high tech planted aquarium. Please Help Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
01-14-2013 08:09 PM
Clarky802 So going out on a limb here.

I got a high range ph test and results come back 8.2ph
My kh is 27.

I have no other option left to belive this is the cause of my dead plants.

I got a reverse osmosis unit setup in the house and just now took readings from it:

I am goin to start daily water changes of maybe 25% to get the tank numbers down. And try this again. 4th try here we go.

What do you think?
01-04-2013 06:22 PM
zico_aqua it happens..patience is the took me 2 years to understand what each plant species need to grow right an' i'm talking about 12 years back when atleast I did not have internet access to ask questions in forums so spontaneously! so patience my friend..u'll get there. Worst part about a new tank is - the ammonia spike..with regards to the amount of substrate you have your plant count was really less. give a gap of a few days and start again. One thing that I did notice - your tank has a lot of diatome attack, which in a way has changed your water colour as well. IMO - when starting a new setup this is what I follow - 1) 50% WC everyday for 1st 2 weeks 2) 50% WC alternate days for next 2 weeks 3) 50% WC every 3 days for 2 weeks then finally bring it down to 1 - 40% WC weekly. This helps in keeping the tank a lot stabilized. I also follow a lihgt schedule of 4 hrs for first week, and then gradually increase it to 8 over a span of 4 weeks by that time plants stabilize. Reason of doing - most plants we buy are grown emersed so it takes time for them to convert to it's submerged state. During this time it's expected that there would be melt out's but your WC schedule along with controlled lighting helps them not go into a shock and stabilize faster. Now onto ferts - I dose exactly half calculated dosage of my tank(I follow EI using stock solution) for first 4 weeks (reason - plants are already sufering to convert them selves, why stress them out more with ferts to photosynthesise faster that too when it's not required). Last but not the least as I mentioned before - HOB's are not exactly ment for planted tanks so my advice get a canister filter with a 10X filtration rate, if that's too expensive then go for a lower rate but definitely get a power head to increase flow as otherwise algal growth due to low flow is un-avoidable. Now I shared the whole process of how I run my tanks and these steps never dissapointed me till date - hope you give this a guess it will be a grand success at your end as well.
01-04-2013 05:48 PM
Clarky802 Well all plants have died and turnd to mush, except the moneywort.
Wich is starting to melt on the lower leaves.
I cannot for the life of me figure out why I cant keep even the easyiest of plants.
This is rather depressing.
I have done everything that has been suggested in this thread. And still end up with a barron wasteland.
01-01-2013 02:10 AM
zico_aqua flow rate wise is good enough..but HOB's are not actually planted tank friendly, plus since they are put at the back your flow is restricted to back to front only making dead spots in the middle. So though but numbers it's reality it's not. If possible put atleast two of them in the sides for better circulation or else get a canister (external) filter for the tank. Plus hope this serves as a consolation - I failed growing cuba 12 times (and i'm talking about some 8 years back) but now I know how/what to expect in it's growth - result it grows like weed with me now, so my friend - it's patience that's required for planted tanks. No two tanks ever behave similar even under one roof,so it's all a matter of getting it right over time..
12-31-2012 11:53 PM
Clarky802 I have almost 1000 L/Hr turnover in this tank.
10x would be 1130 L/Hr.

is that not enough?

No fish gulping at the top
I have 3 hob filters running with good surface aggitation
my co2 reactor pumps some good flow aswell

leads me to belive my water is rich in co2 and O2... is that possible?

Nitrate 10ppm

T5ho bulb spectrum is Tropical wave 6500K.
my other bulb is 10,000K (not in use)

updated Afternoon PH test with lime green /yellow drop checker comes out to 7.5

does something sound fishey?
12-31-2012 10:22 PM
n00dl3 If you really "cranked" your co2, is your fish gulping for air? If not, then your co2 level is not as high as you think you have. Also blue green algae usually appear with low nitrate. You'll will need to dose more kno3 to add more nitrate.

IME, a successful high tech tank needs to have plenty of flow to distribute co2 and nutrient. From your tank spec, I think your flow is low. I would target 10x + turnover. Also, I think your light might not be as high as you think. What are bulbs spectrum?
12-31-2012 08:53 PM
jonathan Closer to the light ?
12-31-2012 08:01 PM
Clarky802 melted HC Cuba on the floor, Green cuba chillin on the filter...????
12-31-2012 07:38 PM
Clarky802 Light chart..
12-31-2012 07:21 PM
Clarky802 The last ph test was in the morning.
my co2 is on timer with the lights 8hrs, and shuts off at night.
It usually takes a bit for my drop checker to turn green in the morning.

May this be an issue?
Though of having co2 kick in 2hrs before lights on?

I will do a update Ph test mid afternoon when co2 levles are high.

I decreased my lights according to this chart (will post pic)
As its says 2 t5ho's are to high for my distance from substrate (16").

I do have tea colourd water from the tannins in my driftwood. But have heard that does not effect light intensity.

I still need help lol. Please.
12-31-2012 06:08 PM
bikinibottom If you are running CO2 I don't understand why you need to worry about decreasing your light. The fact that your floaters (i.e., closer to the light) are doing better than everything else makes me think you shouldn't be decreasing your light levels.

And if your CO2 is "cranked" I don't understand how your pH could be as high as it is.
12-31-2012 04:05 PM
Clarky802 They are Dieing off AGAIN.

I started dosing dry ferts EI method 3 days ago

The HC has pretty much melted away to nothing
Ludwiga has a few rough spots on leafs
And Limnophilia looks wilted.
The Bacopa seems to ever be my only survivor!!

I reduced my light to 1 39w t5ho at 16" from substrate for 8hrs daily.
Have the C02 cranked! Drop checker lime green, almost yellow. Yes with kh4 solution.

I do not understand WHY!!

The neutrients, lights, and co2 is all of plenty.
Yet on the road to another failure. Sigh!!

On a side note.

This tank was overrun with blue green algea in the past.
It was cleaned and vacuumed before this attempt at planting. Complete waterchange ect.
I can se small spots of it returning on the wood, and substrate.
I have read this is a fungus, not exactly algea. Is it possible my substrate has turnd toxic?
It is over a year old.

I have a chunk of bacopa floating and it is doing better than all the rest.
Along with some stray chunks of hc. The floaters are noticably better shape.

I am cunfused and losing hope again. This sucks. I need to win this battle.

I am leaning towards a substrate overhaul. Any ideas???
12-28-2012 09:27 PM
Originally Posted by Clarky802 View Post
So now I do this every other day, and water change 50% once a week?
Looks good to me!
12-28-2012 08:38 PM
Clarky802 some pictures
12-28-2012 06:20 PM
Clarky802 Ok here is how I dosed my tank:

1 tsp KN03, as It came 1Lb in 2L water
1/16 tsp KH2P04 dry
1/16 tsp Trace Elements dry.

So now I do this every other day, and water change 50% once a week?

Does this sound to cover everything?
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