|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|03-18-2016 06:57 PM|
That turned out to be the last picture before I tore it down and moved all the plants to another tank.
I swapped out the bulb for a stronger one, added pressurised CO2, a cooling fan, and basically turned this tank into a high tech tank.
Behind the bush at the back, you can see a panel. Behind the panel there is the same Maxijet 1200, a ceramic CO2 diffuser is placed underneath the intake.
|01-17-2016 11:58 PM|
It's been a while, I just trimmed, bleached, and replanted most of the plants.
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|11-15-2014 04:56 PM|
I recently moved the tank across the room, I thought it warrants an update. I also took the opportunity to modify the light stand. Apart from minor difference in arrangement this is how the tank looked like for quite a while.
Looking at the original post date, the tank has been running for more than 18 months. During this I would say I have learned quite a bit regarding plant.
The tank has suffered bouts of neglect, some plants do better than the others. But the only one that does well is submersed anubias nana petite. So I thought, why not made a tank with just it. That would be the ultimate low maintenance tank.
Speaking of low maintenance, the initial goal of have only the fish waste fertilise the plant, has been a catastrophic failure. It seem to work when the only plants in there are submersed anubias nana petite. When having the regular anubias nana, it will always show nutrient deficiency. When I was having it emersed, I could never dose enough N or have enough fish for it not to have yellow tips. Now that it is completely submersed, I have to dose 6ml of Seachem Flourish N weekly, along with P and K. That is more than twice the recommended dosage, I never thought it could happen to a low tech tank.
I suspect it has partly to do with the vigorous surface agitation which provided it with significant CO2 supply. It is the plants that are directly in the path of MaxiJet 1200 (15x turnover per hour) that shows the most nutrient deficiency. I reduced lighting to 7 hours to reduce nutrient consumption. I wonder if reducing flow would reduce nutrient consumption further? Which No dosing is my goal but it doesn't look like it will happen with the plants in there.
While I failed in the low maintenance department, the tank never had any algae problem. I attribute it to the low light and the vigorous flow. There are hints of green brush algae on the centrepiece wood but that's about it. During the tank move I took the opportunity to spot treat Seachem Excel. Some of them has turned pale now.
|01-30-2013 02:21 PM|
Navyblue's 22G Custom Rimless
I took the hands off approach for a while. And when I came back from a trip, the tank looked somewhat horrible.
There was a rather thick surface film. The anacharis had mostly melted. The rotala that were growing is now turning brown and melting. The water sprite are also started to melt.
Not sure what had gone wrong. My guess is the light was too strong and the CO2 was too little. The surface film is likely impeding the CO2 exchange. I did some water change and try to skim off the film but there are still some of it left. And I think I am going to change the photoperiod from 10 hours to 2x4 hours split photoperiod.
I removed the dead and dying plants and added more new plants. On a positive note, the anubias had sprout new leaves and the jungle Val had sprung out new plantlets through its runner.
I added 5 Sakura shrimps yesterday, but I only saw 4 max. I think all of them are female and most are berried. This morning I found 2 dead shrimps, and only saw 2 at most. However I also saw a 2mm or so long transparent shrimp, one of them seemed to have given birth.
I also saw some tiny crawling stuffs that is even smaller than the tiny shrimp I saw. What are those? Are there copepods in FW tank?
|01-13-2013 06:04 PM|
Originally Posted by Navyblue View Post
|01-13-2013 05:38 PM|
Thanks. I was kind of influenced by this tank here and wanted to try build something similar.
In the end I think it is more suitable for a riparium style planted tank than reef.
|01-13-2013 05:01 PM|
|hydrophyte||I like the shape of this tank. I have been pondering building something similar but a bit shorter.|
|01-13-2013 03:19 PM|
I know I said I am almost done with plants, but I added more again. I think I am done for good now, I really have no time to do all that planting. But I also removed the water wisteria.
|01-12-2013 03:09 AM|
Maybe you should add a variety to each section of the tank instead all just one type of plant. or maybe just move them a little within their section so it isn't too 'crop-ish' unless that's what you're going for ^^
ah well you can always make changes later when your tank is more ready and you want to add more plants in.
|01-11-2013 08:26 PM|
I have a pet peeve. I don't like having things pushed against the viewing panels (all 3 of them), so the border area is kind of off limit for anything. I can make the border less boxy looking but that border has to stay.
As for the pebbles, I like the look of it in the middle around the wood (you probably can't see it in the picture). As for the borders it does look off to me too. But it was either this or the bright orange. My feeling is after that orange patch in the middle is covered (and also the column on the right), the pebble would look less like a frame and more like the ground.
Do you mean the foreground stem plants? I agree it looks too neat to be natural. To me it looks like crops growing in the country side. But that may be the direction that I seem to be going. I do think that patch of plants can be improved. The problem lies in I don't seem to have anywhere else to place them. Which is why it is in a neat row. As mentioned I can't push it to the side. I also can't push it to the back as the area is shaded by the anubias above (in the photo you can see that it is black, and I filled it with pebbles).
I also dislike the right rear corner, which to me lack definition. In an ideal world, I would remove the wisteria and move the bacopa in the middle to the back. Then I'll have a large piece of moss wood to cover that area along with the "hole" that I mentioned earlier. But I already have the plant, and in the short term I need good nitrate absorber like this.
|01-11-2013 07:59 PM|
|xiaxia||i think you should clear up the middle area and move the center row of plants to the left side along the tank side. Stagger it out try not to be too neat with planting (as in straight lines and such) be more 'natural'. That's what i think :P idk about the rocks they look kind of off :/ hmm.|
|01-11-2013 06:56 PM|
I think one of the problem of this tank is it is too brown. I got some dark coloured pebbles to try cover up the exposed substrate. There is still a patch of brown in the middle that I reserve for the java moss that I have yet to add. After that the brown would be much less than before.
|01-11-2013 01:31 PM|
|Navyblue||I put in a Seachem Ammonia Alert today. I have some rotting squid that I have in the tank for a week or so. It is kind of hard to tell the colour, it could be yellow (>0.02ppm), or between yellow and green (0.05 ppm), but definitely under 0.05ppm. I wonder if I can remove the rotting squid and start introducing a small number of cherry shrimps?|
|01-11-2013 04:03 AM|
Well that is encouraging.
At the moment, I am inclining towards cherry red shrimps and cardinal tetra for their hardiness. Low maintenance is a priority for me. I think I'll add may be 3 pairs of shrimps and wait till it gets to a nice population before I add the cardinal.
|01-10-2013 07:54 PM|
|infamouz23||I can say that I rarely had baby shrimp survive until I moved my school of 12 cardinal tetras out of my 20 long.|
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