|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|02-05-2016 02:04 PM|
Originally Posted by Patriot View Post
This is the canister I used: Glacier Bay Basic Household Water Filtration System-HDG2BS4 - The Home Depot
The inputs are 3/4", but the actual openings inside are much smaller, less than 1/2". I am wondering if I will get more flow if I replace the canister with a legit Pentek filter. I actually have a 20" 'Big Blue' that I was using for my house before I upgraded that system, so I would just need to swap it out, but it's so damned heavy when full that I don't think my stand can take the torque it would apply to one brace. I have a feeling, though, that it won't make too much of a difference.
|01-19-2016 12:35 AM|
This is the flow I get using a 20 inch housing with a Sunsun 404b "525" GPH.
Looking into upgrading to a Fx6.
|01-18-2016 10:06 PM|
I'm setting up a 46 bowfront and built one of these Cerges reactors. In my old 20 Long using a diffuser connected to the inlet of my HOB filter, it would take hours and very high bubble count before my drop checker would change to a light green color. Using the Cerges, should I expect the time for the drop checker to change color to be about the same or should it happen faster? How about co2 bubble count? In my previous HOB diffusion method, I know there was a lot of waste because I can see the bubbles going up to the surface inside my HOB. Seems like the cerges should be more efficient and much less wasted CO2?
Bump: btw, in case anyone is interested, I found and purchased this filter from amazon. It cost about the same as the lowes/homedepot one but it is clear
With this filter, I use a regular 1 inch pvc pipe cut down to length as the center pipe and it fits snug without glue
|12-24-2015 04:24 AM|
Originally Posted by m00se View Post
|12-23-2015 06:54 AM|
I *think* I used 1 1/4" ID white pvc on mine. I know I had to stick the end of it into a pan of boiling water to make it pliable and force it into the removable filter seating ring in the top of the cap. It took a few minutes, and a little horsing, but it made a nice snug fit without needing teflon tape or any glue nonsense in there. You do want to design it so that it can come apart in the event that you need to clean it. Like any new thing you'll probably redesign it at least once before you settle on your final setup. It was an easy project and the results are A+.
Like this: http://i.imgur.com/2H0Hp.jpg only it looks like he glued his in. I softened the pvc in boiling water (easy!) and "suggested" it into a narrower diameter carefully, and once I got the lip of the pipe even and re-heated it in the hot water 2-3 times I was able to drive it home and seat it. Then I just slowly rotated the pipe/cap like a toy top on a table to make sure it was plumb (adjusting with heat if necessary) and Bob's Your Uncle.
Protip: don't use CPVC because it will not get soft at all at 212F. Best advice is to bring the filter with you when you go to Lowes to make sure you get a slightly over-size piece of pipe.
|12-23-2015 05:19 AM|
Thanks m00se for the info I think I am going do the same.
One final question for anyone that has used a https://www.h2odistributors.com/ytb-20-cb34-pr housing unit what diameter of tubing should I use for the internal downspout?
|12-18-2015 06:53 AM|
I re-read what I wrote, and realized: I didn't mean to imply I haven't CLEANED the prefilter in over a year! That gets done with the regular WC's. So get the filter and at least 2 backup sponges so you can swap them out. They're cheap.
I used 1/2" white PVC w/glue to get the water to and from the tank, IE: diy all the way, including the intake pipe and spray bar return. I used Krylon Fusion matte black spray paint on the piping to tie it all in. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Krylon-12-...Black/17253596
|12-18-2015 06:49 AM|
Originally Posted by m00se View Post
|12-18-2015 06:21 AM|
I use a Danner Mag 5 pump in mine. I don't think you need to go to Eheim level here. Get an ATI pre-filter from Ken's Fish ATI Filter Max #3 and plumb it in with 1/2" clear vinyl hose from HD. You'll need adapters to go into and out of your HH filter, and you should figure on at least two valves in there so that you can remove it when time comes for maintenance. I haven't touched mine in over a year so I know the pre-filter is working. Mag 5 is a workhorse with a proven track record. Just don't run it dry and you'll have years of service from it.
Bump: I use a Danner Mag 5 pump in mine. I don't think you need to go to Eheim level here. Get an ATI pre-filter from Ken's Fish ATI Filter Max #3 and plumb it in with 1/2" clear vinyl hose from HD. You'll need adapters to go into and out of your HH filter, and you should figure on at least two valves in there so that you can remove it when time comes for maintenance. I haven't touched mine in over a year so I know the pre-filter is working. Mag 5 is a workhorse with a proven track record. Just don't run it dry and you'll have years of service from it.
|12-18-2015 02:08 AM|
I just found this post and am planing on build a reactor soon for my 125 gal tank but I got a few questions
I am think of using 20" × 4½" Cartridges with 3/4" Ports from https://www.h2odistributors.com/ytb-20-cb34-pr and I want to know what pump I should use with it?
Secondly because the reactor will not be inline with a filter I am wondering what inlet/outlet pipe I should use.
I am thinking of getting the Eheim Water System Installation Sets for 5/8" tubing and using a pump with 3/4" ports but I am not sure if that will be a good idea or not?
Any help would be great
|11-21-2015 03:50 PM|
|heel4you||Thank you micca!!|
|11-20-2015 02:20 AM|
Originally Posted by heel4you View Post
A year later and this beast has been running flawlessly with 100% CO2 absorption since I built it.
|11-19-2015 07:30 PM|
Is it possible to make this topic a "sticky" or a blog with only the correct step-by-step setup?
I am going to build one soon, but this thread got a little confusing.
|11-19-2015 06:03 PM|
Originally Posted by Positron View Post
Yes, this is correct. The previous comment from WaterLife is incorrect if you want the best possible setup. There's no need to reverse the direction of the flow. I'm sure it'd still work if it was reversed, but doing so would give less room for CO2 absorption.
|11-19-2015 02:47 AM|
I just constructed this reactor, but I'm confused a bit. On the diagram a few pages back that micaa wrote, the input from the pump is clearly going into the input "in" on the reactor. The red button is closest to the input of the reactor so the Co2 comes through the pipe before it.
Does it make a huge difference what way the water flows through the thing?
EDIT: Upon closer examination of the reactor, the IN pipes directly to the top of the reactor. The OUT sucks water from the bottom of the reactor via the tube. This is how it's setup in my current min max reactor.
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