|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|12-31-2012 11:59 PM|
|lullafishi||Just purchased the Eheim 2217 (for $113) and a 200w Hydor in-line heater (for only $36) from Big Al's with their Christmas pricing and a 10% coupon! I figured the 2217 was only a few dollars more than the Petco Fluval 306 deal, but I wouldn't have to mess around with new hosing or adapters to hook up the heater to the 306.|
|12-31-2012 10:00 PM|
|12-31-2012 09:54 PM|
I bought the 40 breeder and I'm already glad I did!
Now I'm trying to decide between the Eheim 2217 and Fluval 306 for it.
I'll also probably go for the Finnex Fugeray 36" and add a window screen and/or floaters to keep it appropriate for low light, no c02.
|12-31-2012 05:11 PM|
|jpalimpsest||With tanks, I say that bigger is almost always better. In my experience, if you go small, you'll quickly find that you need (okay, want) to upgrade. Fish keeping is an addiction, be prepared|
|12-31-2012 01:18 PM|
|12-31-2012 01:03 AM|
Originally Posted by 3OHA CYMPAKA View Post
Tylt33: I'd totally go the STS route, but I've really fallen for the black substrate look. I considered using Black Diamond blasting grit, but those fine needles aren't all that appealing to me. I'm going to start looking in to MTS or at least MGOPS. Do you have the Ray2 or a Fugeray, and are you using c02? And is a RO/DI system DIYable? Good to know about the frequent Fluval sales, too! I think they were that price for Black Friday. I only started researching equipment prices just after Thanksgiving, so I'm not familiar with what's a good holiday deal or what's average yet.
bikinibottom: You know, I'm not really sure! I was using Lowe's PAR chart for the fugerays, and I'm assuming it would be at substrate-level since the 40b is 16" tall. I'm estimating substrate to be around 3", but the fixture's legs have the light about 3" above the top. So that's still a depth of 16".
Great suggestion about the window screen or floating plants to reduce light! I didn't realize that could be done, but it makes sense. I wouldn't be opposed to using floaters, and even like the idea of plants growing emerged. Is the window screen something that can be attached to a fugeray instead of covering the tank?
Saxtonhill: Welcome! I've been learning a lot at this forum; it's a wealth of information and ideas!
|12-29-2012 11:48 AM|
Lullafishi, I'm a newbie here too. In fact, this is my first post. I've had fish for nearly 40 years (since I was a kid) but always very low tech and almost always goldfish. I have a 60 gallon to fill and in no hurry to do it yet...would eventually like to have a lushly planted aquascape...maybe an Amazon habitat of some kind with angelfish, cory cats and black neons. But for the time being I am learning on my 20 gallon with Java fern, anubias and some Java moss... I am currently studying more about water and lighting conditions. I have 6 aeneus cory cats and 6 black neons in the 20 gallon; they are all very active.
I have 2 other aquariums. The 30 gallon has three large fantail goldfish. The 40 gallon has 5 large comet goldfish.
Very thankful for this forum!!! I'll be going back to lurking, reading and studying
|12-29-2012 11:42 AM|
i like tylt33's suggestion to use floating plants to shade your tank if you're worried about the light level. I put 3 small water sprites in my tank about 2-3 weeks ago, and now I already have at least 6 of them, and the original 3 have more than doubled in size. The roots hang down, it looks very cool, and the fish love it. And it's one of those things that is easy to weed out if you get too many of them -- just pluck them off the top.
Something else you can do is put window screen at the top of your tank, or right at your light. I read on here that it reduces PAR by ~40% (60% if you put 2 layers of screen). It's cheap and you can buy it at Lowe's or HD. I have it on my low-tech tank (40-gal long, 16 inches deep), which has 108w Tek T5, and I have no problems with algae and after a month everything is still lush and green.
But with your PAR level, I'm guessing you will only need one or the other -- plants or screen.
|12-29-2012 06:20 AM|
|Tylt33||Fwiw, I moved a 210g reef setup across town; it's not as bad as you think, not a reason to dodge going from a 20 to a 40. And honestly, I think the best thing you can do is use RO/DI water from the get go. It will save you a lot of testing, algae, and guessing down the road. A little bit of a hassle to start, but works well in the long run.|
|12-29-2012 06:14 AM|
I have a setup very similar to what you're planning. I went with MTS capped with STS from Tractor Supply. The best combo of price and functionality; no dosing, looks great, cheap.
I have the 36" Fugeray 2 over a 75g, which is 20" tall. I planted heavy, never had an algae outbreak, I've only scraped the glass once in the two or so months I've had the tank. No water changes, and about fifty fish.
I grow crypts, anubias, all types of swords, various hygros, and some other junk. If you are worried about too much light, get some DWL or Frogbit to provide shade. Just FYI I picked up two Fluval 306s at Petsmart and Petco for $80 each; good sales are always around the corner.
Get e 40 breeder
|12-28-2012 05:41 PM|
For the lightening u can try this, i do that myself. This is my firs Aq 30l
You need just tube for savage (just cut in on half horizontally), and one part to close it (then you cut that on half , and u have half part for both end, fix that with super glue)
Then u need one lath,on that u put neon light ... That lath u fasten with 4 srew (u dont have to fasten directlz in lath, enought is just to tighter on screw)
I put masking tape on top... And aluminium foil inside, to reflect light
Sorry because my english
|12-28-2012 05:31 PM|
According to Lowe's PAR charts for the Finnex Fugeray, if I go with a 36" fixture to fit a 40b... I'll have a PAR around 50-60, which I'm assuming is too high light for not having c02. Is that right? It looks like even suspending it will be too much light?
And if I'd have to suspend the 36" anyway for a 40b, is it possible to suspend the 30" instead over a 36" long tank and stay within low light without having dark corners?
|12-28-2012 05:19 PM|
Originally Posted by shloken38 View Post
Thanks for the head's up about electrical outlets, I hadn't considered that either!
Re: guppies... if I can safely keep them (and shrimp) in one tank, I'll stick with all male guppies. Pretty much I am very attached to my current three males, who get along swimmingly (lawl).
|12-28-2012 04:47 PM|
I can guarantee you that no matter what size you get -- 20 gal, 200 gal, 500 gallon.... you will always want something bigger. ALWAYS. So that being said, I would say just get what you can comfortably afford. Also, something that a lot of people tend to neglect is the number of electrical receptacles they have. Every time you add a heater, add a set of lights, add a pump/airstone, etc... that's another plug. Make sure you have space for your setup, and have enough plugs in close proximity. And using multiple power strips can be dangerous, so try not to plan to use more than one in an outlet. I'm sure even that has got its problems.
Oh, and not sure about the heater -- do you really need 200w on a 29-gal?
Guppies -- if you really really really like guppies and want to figure out what to do with 20 babies every few weeks -- then go for it. I put 4 guppies in my tank (1 male, 3 females) and a week later had nearly 20 babies swimming around. I bought 2 pearl gouramis and they have gotten the baby population down to about 5 or 6. I'm not interested in doubling my guppy population every month and having to figure out what to do with them so hopefully the gouramis will keep eating them!
|12-28-2012 03:45 PM|
Just impulse buy.....then keep adding tanks! hahaha.....
Can't help you with your decision. Bigger is always better, but I understand moving that bigger tank is more of an issue. Tough call....
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