|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|10-05-2015 07:16 PM|
Yeah you run water in reverse through it. Your inlet connects to the housing's marked outlet, and your outlet coming out of the housing's marked inlet. So you hook it up in reverse/opposite to the marking.
I'm not sure about the risers.
|10-05-2015 07:03 PM|
2 questions about this build.
1. Do you run the water through in reverse to what the filter itself calls for? I'm assuming one does want the CO2 entering the largest chamber and the CO2 rich water leaving the down tube.
2. The lowes where I'm at didn't have the plastic risers so I got brass, is this going to cause an issue?
|09-22-2015 03:41 PM|
Originally Posted by brains613 View Post
|09-15-2015 08:39 PM|
|Patriot||I just order the pentek 3/4 20" 3g filter housing. I did not come with a cap.|
|09-12-2015 10:53 PM|
|Patriot||Do anyone know if a sunsun 404b will produce enough pressure to work? This video mention that he had to use two filters for it to work. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Itj-qxlKmIo|
|08-21-2015 02:45 PM|
|micca||Thanks for the feedback, brains613. I've adjusted my original post (Page 52 / post #770) with the information you provided. I'll continue to make edits as needed.|
|08-21-2015 05:30 AM|
|vladguan||Guys, the same thing can be DIYed with a little bit more work using DWV pipes and fittings. You can make a large one using 6" diameter pipes and end caps and then some bulkheads and irrigation rises as the centre tube and then a small threaded adaptor to screw into the inlet.|
|08-19-2015 12:12 PM|
LOL, guess I have not looked at this thread in awhile. Philip, yes the 10" housing seems big enough for my 75 gallon tank. What is the largest tank a 10 housing could be used on? No clue. Curious, what is the approximate cost for a 20" housing? and would (2) 10" housings produce better results if you could get the (2) 10" housings for about the same cost as the 20" housing?
Nice write up by brians613 - very helpful! Also, I find that the clear housings offer a chance to see whats happening inside the reactor. I have pushed too much cO2 into mine and it resulted in a bubble at the top of the reactor.
|08-19-2015 09:07 AM|
Originally Posted by philipraposo1982 View Post
|08-15-2015 12:08 PM|
Your going to want the big 20" housing with 4" dia.
I use that one for my 75g. I got mine from amazon.
|08-15-2015 07:24 AM|
|Patriot||Thanks for posting the list of what is needed. Now I have to find a clear one big enough for a 80 gallon tank.|
|08-08-2015 07:02 PM|
Originally Posted by micca View Post
I kept researching and was still unsure of exactly what I needed. I got all these parts, with one change, since the Lowes didn't have the exact model number. (The brass pipe reducer bushing.)
Couple notes - I got the water filter from Lowes. I opened in the store, and there IS an O-ring in it. That's why I got it. It was $22. The one from Home Depot was cheaper, ($13) but wasn't available locally.
The part numbers for the two brass pieces I got are 645658 and 645891, made by BrassCraft. They fit together easily, even with the tape.
|06-11-2015 07:08 PM|
|ecotanker||Great thread! Thanks for all the great tips and info. I read the first 30 or so pages then skipped to the end. I mod my fluidized bed filter a reactor similar to this. The in flowing water goes down a tube and then up through a sand bed. The return water needs to pass through another tube to get back to the tank. Hopefully this work just as well.|
|06-11-2015 01:40 AM|
|philipraposo1982||is 10" housing big enough for a 75g?|
|04-20-2015 05:55 AM|
|ikuzo||why not add another valve to close the reactor if you want to bypass it completely|
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