|11-23-2012 05:13 PM|
I have newly installed Fluval FX5 filter but kept my old canister filter to put water though my UV and Reactor.
|11-23-2012 05:09 PM|
|11-20-2012 10:41 AM|
Did you add anything else to the drop checker? As mentioned by killswitch, you cannot use aquarium water (or tap water, or distilled water, etc) for accurate readings.
|11-20-2012 10:24 AM|
You need to use the reference liquid and not tank water otherwise it wont be accurate.
|11-17-2012 10:49 PM|
Hhehehehe....Tom turned newbie and talking about CO2 chart. For the OP, the CO2 drop checker should be somewhat yellowish by mid day. Completely yellow by the end of the light cycle. Well, you talked about grams of fert. Do you know how many ppm of each fert you are dosing? How do you dissolve your CO2 given that you have a 100g tank? Is a big tank.
|11-17-2012 09:07 AM|
I am going to use the DC forum to help with this cos i feel something is not right.
|11-17-2012 09:05 AM|
Are you using a 4 dkH reference solution?
|11-17-2012 08:49 AM|
|11-17-2012 05:09 AM|
In any case, you cannot measure pH and kH to get CO2 reliably, as there are other factors in aquarium water that will affect the kH.
The best way to check CO2 levels is to use a drop checker with a 4 dkH reference solution.
|11-17-2012 04:31 AM|
Co2, all you have to do is check the pH/KH chart for CO2.
You are way way low on CO2 and all the algae species show me that and confirm it also.
Nutrients are not the issue, light(too high for such low CO2) and mostly CO2.
If you fix the CO2 correctly, then the algae will stop any new growth.
Fish should always be observed closely when adjusting the cO2. Do ti s........l.........o............w...........l..... ......y
Do not adjust and then leave for work all day.
pH should be more about 6.7-6.8 range.
|11-16-2012 10:38 PM|
I would cut the KH2PO4 in half or less, plants need much less phosphate than they do nitrogen.
If your nitrate is not too high (under 20 ppm) then I would add more KNO3. That will give you more potassium, but still maybe not enough.
If you do not want to add more NO3, then add K2SO4 for more potassium.
I do not really see iron deficiency there.
Leaves that are weakened for example by potassium deficiency are much more easily rasped by snails or Loricariads, so there may be some of each going on.
Agree about the Anubias- 2 kinds of algae on those leaves.
If Excel is available to you you could treat the algae by syringing a little Excel directly onto the worst of the algae. Hydrogen Peroxide works, too. Caution: Most of the recipes you will find for H2O2 are starting with 3%. I understand that 6% is available on your side of the pond. If you are using the 6% I would cut it with water before using it. Might be too strong for the leaves, though it sure would kill the algae!
|11-16-2012 06:39 PM|
|11-16-2012 05:33 PM|
Those sword leaves look like your plecostamus is eating them at night when your lights are off and you don't see him. That's classic sucker erosion to my eye.
Also, how is your pH so high with CO2 running like that? Are you sure you're dissolving enough of it?
I can't speak to the algae. I have little experience with that particular species you have.
|11-16-2012 04:48 PM|
Have reduced timer for lights to 6 hours and am monitoring co2 (which now is set to be on 2.5 hrs before lights).
Have trimmed back Swords and removed the infected leaves of Anubias also
Have upped CO2 to between 10 bps and 20 bps.. its hard to count them now... DC still green
New growth is showing on the Anubias already.
|11-10-2012 11:02 PM|
On day 2, 4 + 6 I dose TNC trace –My trace includes, Fe, Mn, Zn, B, Cu and Mo
I am in hard water area so do not dose Magnesium Sulphate
I am new to EI and started 4 weeks ago.
I used to use 50 / 50 RO and tap water until i started EI so some of my problems may be from then.
Additionally when i dose trace elements my water turns white cloudy for 24 hours. Someone said this is due to me having hard water and calcium reaction but i don’t know if I should go back to mixing RO again?
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