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  Topic Review (Newest First)
12-18-2012 03:33 PM
m00se One of the reasons erythromycin works and the other 2920945+ antibiotics don't is because it is effective on gram positive bacteria. Your bio filter is safe. Just follow the directions and do the COMPLETE course as you normally would for a fish infection.
12-18-2012 03:30 PM
Sluggo Just remember that Erythromycin will not distinguish "bad" bacteria from "good" bacteria. You will be killing off part of your beneficial population, so dose carefully.

Daily 25% water changes for a week or so have always worked for me.
12-18-2012 01:56 PM
Topsy I battled bga for 5 months and as we cant get Erythromycin here in scotland i had to find alternative the end i used 2 doses of seacheams Potassium nitrate 1st day and 3rd day and the whole tank was cleared by the 5th day..I was amazed to say the may work for other people as well...good luck
12-06-2012 02:37 PM
happi i could not fix it no matter what i did, clean gravel, H2O2, blackout etc you name it, even Erythromycin was once failed to kill it, but am going to try Erythromycin one more time and hoping this will kill it.
12-06-2012 05:14 AM
danakin An antibiotic will always be more effective and complete at eliminating a bacteria than an oxidizer.
12-06-2012 05:03 AM
Requality Before doing eythromycin, which is a waste of 10$ unless you actually need the medication for you wish in my opinion. Go out to walmart or riteaid and buy yourself a bottle of Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) which go for around maybe a dollar for 350ml? Just turn off all flow and spot for and leave for 30 minutes at 1ml per gal. You could also use this time to spot dose all your other algae such as BBA. I left the lights off that day and turned back on the filter but you could probably turn the lights back on if you wanted too. The BGA turned brownish the next and is now totally gone from my tank.

12-06-2012 04:54 AM
danakin Standard BGA Eradication Procedure: Adjust your photoperiod down to 8 hours. Dose erythromycin. Do several 25% water changes. Make adjustments as needed, and repeat.
12-05-2012 07:24 AM
Originally Posted by m00se View Post
Actually bga is usually triggered by sunlight.
Not really. I have tanks that hidden away from sunlight that has blue green algae.

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12-05-2012 07:06 AM
Hardstuff I did not buy my ferts from Tom. I buy them from aquarium fertilizer .com. Which I think deal with Tom. I am not sure about the expiration date on the fertilizers. I have to check the bags they came in. Can you tell me about how long they are good for? Also how long do they last when mixed in the fridge & some of the fertilizers get hard when placed in the fridge, but moldy when not chilled. Dry ferts still the only way to go!
12-05-2012 06:55 AM
m00se I have bought bulk from this guy before. Just email him and make sure you mention that you want your jar to have the longest expiration date possible. There is more in that jar than one "episode" so you'll want it to last as long as possible - usually one series of treatments is enough for most tanks.

Ebay - input #110479107472 in your search.

12-05-2012 06:54 AM
Hardstuff I feel your pain. I had BGA for nearly 3 months. I almost gave up. I had to make many changes. FIrst of all my tank even though small is heavily planted, 10 gallon. I tried to get away with a zoo med 501. rated for 30 gallons. Sure it is. The tank was not only getting overrun with BGA I had diatomic algae blooms that was producing more o2 than my plants, My canister filter was poring O2 out like crazy. I started loosing shrimp. I tried peroxide in the substrate & manual removal. My tanked even had a foul smell & I felt sick being around it.Nothing worked. I was loosing it. Than I decided to run an oversized canister filter & leave the underpowered one in place. (CARBON) in both filters. Than I changed my bulbs to 6500K. I did 50% water changes every week sucking out from the substrate. Than I kept my NO3 at 10ppm or more. My PO4 was kept from crashing at .25-.75ppms at all times. I made sure all my ferts were inline. I targeted DOC's & flow around plants & substrate as well. I used the cred card trick. Take a credit card & slide it down almost to the seal of the tank & slide all the way around most of the tank. This helps aerate the substrate. I even poked some holes in the substrate itself. Make sure there is some surface agitation itself as well. Very important. Lastly even though I reduced it to 99% gone it still tried to survive. The very last thing that beat it down was an antibiotic called flagil. After dosing for 3 days it gone & my tank is crystal clear CRYSTAL CLEAR & hardly any algae at all. The tank appears perfectly balanced & I owe this in part to TOM BARR. Look him up, he knows what he's doing. I hope this helps.
12-05-2012 06:44 AM
m00se Actually bga is usually triggered by sunlight. Is your tank getting direct sunlight? In any case photo periods and other techniques won't get rid of it. You need erythromycin. Maracyn (not II) will kill it. You can buy it at your local fish store or online. It's cheaper online in bulk. Dose per package.
12-05-2012 06:18 AM
Originally Posted by Barnacles View Post
How can I get rid of my algae?
One of the cause of Blue green algae is light; too long exposure.
Once you got your light fix, do a lot of water changes.
11-29-2012 12:22 AM
Django Eep! I just had mine id'd as cyanobacteria/GBA. It hasn't gone very far yet, but I have a feeling it's going to spread if I don't do something.

I'm planning to cut the photoperiod to 6 hours, perhaps raise the lights some, and clean the tank thoroughly as I do 50% water changes twice a week.

Sorry you've got it too. Now I can truly sympathize.

Any other pointers about CB (cyanobacteria) will be well appreciated. Thanks in advance.
11-27-2012 08:04 PM
Barnacles Bump.
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