|11-21-2012 03:56 AM|
|driftwoodhunter||You people are dangerous. Izabella87 started it for me, you guys have pushed me over the edge. Following all the links through to the MFK build that combined two 55s and a 29 has my brain churning like a squirrel on crack. I have a friend who owns a glass shop. Another dear friend gave me an early Christmas present of a table saw. I will lay in bed all night thinking of ways to make custom shaped tanks with hardwood frames - LOL|
|11-20-2012 03:34 AM|
|mcfly84||Well I have some new found insight after doing a little reading and checking out that link you provided. All in all you should be fine as long as you're patient and very meticulous during construction. The weight of the water shouldn't be a problem as long as the glass isn't in a bind when filling with water. Any configuration you choose should work as long as you don't try to increase the height of the tank using only the glass you have from the provided aquariums. I would look at the DIY all galss build in the link I provided to get the silicone he uses. Eurobracing would totally work too if done properly. Also if you did the seams properly you could get away with using glass as the bracing on the sides instead of wood.|
|11-19-2012 08:59 PM|
Eurobracing wouldn't be that bad of an idea, and I kind of like the way it looks
It looks like I'm not the first to have this idea though A friend of mine sent me a link and it seems someone else beat me to the punch. Kind of like my idea for turning a 55 gallon on it's side for a 4' long x 24" wide x 12" tall tank (a buddy of mine wanted to do a bottom feeder tank and was looking for a cheap short tank).
If you are interested in how it turned out for the other people that joined 2 55s and 1 29 gallon tank here's the link. It hasn't leaked as far as I know, but the last update was in March.
I know having the wooden brace down the middle will "obstruct the view" but it honestly won't bother me. If I were doing it for a show tank, I would just start saving for an upgrade
Thank you everyone for your comments and assistance with my insane idea!
|11-19-2012 02:58 PM|
Here you go, this proves it can be done...
And a spoiler alert pic...
|11-19-2012 01:33 AM|
|Hoppy||Eurobracing is horizontal strips of glass along the front, back and side panels, resulting in a smaller open top on the tank. It isn't cross braces. Those horizontal strips convert the glass panels to sort of I beams, so they are reinforced against bending, which is the problem with long panels of glass. You would need to buy those strips of glass, say 3 inch wide 6 mm glass, and cut them to fit well inside the top of the tank. Ideally they would be mitered on the ends, but I don't think that is necessary at all. (Now that I think about it, if the tank bottoms aren't tempered you could cut those into strips, but they probably are tempered.)|
|11-18-2012 01:51 AM|
Will work on smaller tanks. putting 2 55 together mean taken one of the side glass off and using silicone to hold them together. One way or another the middle will leak, you can duck tape it and will still leak.
Try this idea
take all the glass off and just use the bigger size.
Your tank foot print should be
48" L x 24" W x 21" H
2 48"x12 = 48x24
you will end up cutting one 48x12 in half for the 2 side.
Silicone the 2 bottom glass will be fine and leak save if only the flood or stand is flat must be 100% flat
Use left over glass to build smaller tank or use it to make a glass top
|11-16-2012 07:13 PM|
I will definitely keep bracing in mind, I really don't want to create a mess
I agree with you that the sheer size of the thing might make it difficult to find a place for it... It's almost as big (aside from the height) as the cube I work in!
One other member mention thickness, this is my biggest concern at the moment, I have no difficulties with my ability to support the tank so that the siliconed seams do not separate, but the thickness... Well, i can't do a thing about that without buying new pieces. It's tempered, so I know technically it can be thinner than non-tempered glass and withstand more pressure, but I have to do some figuring to determine HOW much.
Crossing the braces is another hurdle for the 4' x 4' tank... But I may be able to use a methodology similar to izabell depending on the thickness of the cross braces. AHH, unless I can find someone with a broken tank, I would have to BUY cross pieces for bracing... Seems like I have a lot of thinking to do.
It is looking like I won't do ANYTHING with this until after we move (our house isn't even sold yet, so there's no ETA). I'd like to take it with me if I spend a lot of time working on it, I just couldn't stand leaving it behind... This is going to drive me crazy until I can get my hands on those panes of glass!
|11-16-2012 06:28 PM|
I like dogfish's idea as well. The biggest hurdle I see is the euro cross bracing the hoppy mentioned.
It will have to cross both front to back and side to side. What would prevent the euro brace from caving in at the middle where the two cross?
I think it is definitely possible to do this way though.
|11-16-2012 05:08 PM|
HA, I know exactly what you are talking about, my father-in-law is a bowyer (self-wood/long bows), and loves making things in general with wood. While he uses all kinds of woods, osage is his go-to wood for bow making. He recently got a connection with someone where he has the potential to get as much as he wants from someone's fence row.
He has used it for so many things that now it's a running joke that if something is broken he can fix it with osage.
You are right though, it is tough to work with, especially if you get wood from one of the slower growing trees, the growth rings are TIGHT on those jokers! It is pretty cool how the color changes with age too, he has several bows ranging from a few weeks to 15+ years (i think) old all looking like they come from a different type of wood (based on the color).
Nice revolver BTW
Back to topic, knowing the density/durability and longevity of this wood I think I could use it as a frame in addition to glass supports, in my head I have it worked out to look nice as well as being functional. and aside from time, it would be no cost to me, so it would keep the "upgrade" cost down considerably.
|11-16-2012 05:03 PM|
If you try DogFish's idea for a 48" x 48" x 24" tank, it will be as strong and safe as a standard 55 gallon tank. The weakest glass is the longest glass, and you will be using those from a proven safe design tank, so they are strong enough. The bottom, I agree again with DogFish, that putting reinforcing pieces of glass across the seams, on the inside, will work fine, even if you don't use a fully supported bottom, but just an edge supported bottom. You will want to silicone seal the whole overlap area, so that will be a very strong joint. And, of course, you will want to Eurobrace the sides to take the place of the standard 55 gallon cross brace.
The only problem I see are having to make a stand that will be adequate and look good, and having to move such a large, awkwardly shaped tank. Good luck, and I hope you try this and report on it.
|11-16-2012 04:37 PM|
I Love/Hate that Wood. I believe it is the most dense North American Hardwood. I have in in the riser of two of my Recurve Bows and as grips for my S & W 325NG .45acp revolver.
I've made a few small hunting related items out of it. What a headache to work with. I think I actually dulled out a File on it.
I do like how it changes color over time too.
|11-16-2012 03:26 PM|
Here's another thread you may want to check out, though the thread is old, you may be able to contact the members and get more input. I posted to bring the thread back up to the top so maybe someone will post some updates.
|11-16-2012 04:33 AM|
Wow, everyone here is full of great knowledge and supportive scenarios!
I few other things i should mention. I am not against building a frame for the tank to cover up and/or add to supports along the seams, edges, or the top/bottom. I have access to some free Osage Orange. I'm not terribly concerned about having a thin bead of silicone on the seams -meaning I am willing to do a large bead to ensure stability- , i'll do what it takes to make it safe if i go down that route. Dont get me wrong, i will make is as attractive as possible too
|11-16-2012 01:53 AM|
Honestly the more I think about it the combination probably wouldn't serve too well when considering glass thickness it would be very very fragile. If it wasn't on a solid base just a sag in the floor or stand over time with all of the weight would find a weak spot and come crashing out not to mention something bumping into one of the long panes. As far as the seams go at the joint of the two tanks like I vaguely showed above; you could easily hide with proper scaping and display point of the aquarium.
Glass thickness is key to combining them.
The guy in the link above provided great information in his build journal.
If the glass is too thin then I would consider making a bridge.
A 6x6 trough at the top leaving a 2-4in gap between the tanks would be better but you'll want to try and save the rim around the top. I personally wouldn't try going bigger than that. I'd like to add that if you did the bridge then I would beef up the glass or acrylic(which ever you choice you make) thickness and use the correct silicone definitely do not cheap out on that part.
Like I said before it just comes down to the thickness of the glass.
|11-16-2012 01:23 AM|
As an after thought, you could run a 2" strip across the top of the seams of the two original bottom 12x48" panes were they will butt up to the 4- 12x24" panes to reduce you lateral flex point. Although I do feel the plywood sheet underneath will be enough. That will be further re-enforced by stand top.
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