|02-05-2014 03:10 AM|
I have a smaller tank with a 14"x14" footprint. Already have some leds and a typhon controller. Need to spend another @$50 on meanwell ldd's and a power supply.
With that size tank I only need about 10 leds. Talking the 3w endorstar ones. Problem is, I'm concerned about spotlighting and the disco effect. (btw, very nice led tutorial you wrote ). I can buy a fugeray planted+ for about that amount. The fugeray and current lights use a lot of smaller leds to address what Im worried about.
What do you think?
|08-06-2013 07:34 PM|
|08-06-2013 07:33 PM|
I admit my wires are messy, haha! Thanks for checking it out!
|08-06-2013 03:23 PM|
My first opinion is "woaahh so expensive" and second one is "So cool"
Probably it can be made half price in Hong Kong But really nice work. I love that hanging arm.
Just the cables are luttle bit messy but no one look at under the fixture. And no one can see when lights are on even they look at that
Anyway eventually i like whole thing. Good job my friend!
|07-26-2013 02:45 AM|
|07-22-2013 11:40 PM|
|07-22-2013 04:02 PM|
I'm so glad that I chose to use MakersLED heatsink. It was your build that inspired me
I cant be more happy with this light. No plant is impossible with it.
|07-22-2013 06:48 AM|
I'm running 36 emitters now (after adding the 8 warm whites). My driver is the SmartyCat designed by O2Surplus (see his thread about that). As I recall, it runs at about 1100 mA, but I have each channel manually dialed down quite a bit. I couldn't say exactly what the current is for each channel, except to say it provides plenty of PAR without algae issues.
As for the ratio of cw/nw, I'd say add the warm whites to the equation. Without them I was getting leggy growth that looked like I just didn't have enough light (which I didn't in the red part of the spectrum). My current ratio is (cw:nw:ww) 1:1:0.5, but my cw are running at about 75%, my nw are dialed down at least 50%, and the ww are running at nearly 100% (of the 1100mA max). They also have 80 degree optics instead of 60 degree optics like the cw/nw.
In other words, a lot of variables going on there.
I'd almost say you don't need nw, except to render your greens. That would be a personal choice.
Those are just my observations based on my conditions, so things may be different for you. Hope that helps!
|07-22-2013 06:32 AM|
I have the Meanwell power supply as well. I'd be more comfortable with it in a box, but it does all right.
I had blues for a bit, but I was getting crazy BBA with them, so I removed them. I have enough blue spectrum with the cool whites to keep the plants happy, so it didn't bother me too much.
|07-21-2013 02:16 AM|
very nice build theblondskeleton i love it , i am on my way to make my lights for the same tank as you , well i have some questions you are running 28 CREE XTE leds but at what current ? and is by that you are getting enough light for a high tech system ? and about your NW leds how much its kelvin ?
and after your experiment what do you recommend for the ratio between CW and NW
|07-16-2013 06:36 PM|
I just put together a similar fixture. The combination of cool and warm white on seperate channels gives me excelent control. I did not include any blue LEDs, but if you have fish that have iradecent highlights it is worth adding in a few blues.
Since this thread was started, Ledgroupbuy has started selling a hanging kit. It is very nice and easy to adjust.
What are you using for a power supply? I bought one on their site, but I am not a fan of the exposed line voltage terminals.
|07-16-2013 06:32 AM|
|theblondskeleton||I have changed this recently. I was running 50/50 (14cw 14nw), but this was lacking in the red part of the spectrum. I have added 8 warm whites to make up the difference, and it has balanced it out pretty well.|
|07-15-2013 09:58 PM|
|kingdave||What is your ratio of cool white to neutral white LED's?|
|09-14-2012 05:33 AM|
|09-14-2012 05:31 AM|
The tank is an ADA 120-P, which is 65 gallons (48x18x18). At the current height and with 60 degree optics, it has pretty much perfect coverage, with the most concentrated beam covering the full footprint at substrate level (plus a few inches).
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