|01-20-2015 10:47 PM|
|flight50||So far with my experience of testing out my system, it seems that a bypass line that tees or wyes off prior to the reactor, has more benefits than using ball valves to restrict flow. A bypass also appears to dismiss the need for a purge button as excess air doesn't seem to enter the reactor. In a way, the bypass restricts flow to the reactor in a sense that half the flow of water can divert a different path which allows for less flow needing flow thru the reactor. More is not always better. IMO, it seems that increased pressure creates more bubbles entering the camber of the reactor. This pressure will prematurely push some CO2 thru before it is dissolved. As I was testing out my system I got a lot of bubbles until I opened my bypass. All the unnecessary flow tried to push thru the reactor until the bypass split the load of flow. I have a DC pump, in order to get rid of the bubbles , I had to ramp down the flow, or open the bypass.|
|01-20-2015 01:38 AM|
1. increasing head height
2. restricting outflow
Any pump would work but ideally, it would have high flow rating. Also, increasing reactor volume may help, but I'm not sure if it will. Reasoning is: more volume = higher water weight = more pressure.
|01-19-2015 02:33 AM|
|Raul-7||So if increased pressure is better, what pumps do you recommend? Eheim Compact series? I'd like to avoid Mags or QuietOne.|
|11-18-2014 06:58 AM|
Well done! I wish this list had been available when I was collecting parts to build one myself!
|11-18-2014 03:10 AM|
I built one of these a few weeks back after much research within this thread and elsewhere. The process would have been a lot easier if the pictures from the original post were still available and if the exact parts were outlined in one spot. I read a bunch of requests for others looking for this information, so if you happen to be one of them, I hope you find this post helpful.
I originally purchased the Whirlpool filter housing from Lowes and it leaked like crazy. The one I had didn't come with an O-ring. I'm unsure if it was missing from the box or if the unit simply doesn't come with one. Nonetheless, I returned that unit and got the GE one from Home Depot. It does include an O-ring and hasn't leaked whatsoever. I recommend you use the GE one based on this. The pictures below include the Whirlpool unit, but everything with the GE unit is exactly the same for all intents and purposes. All parts listed below were purchased from Lowes with the exception of the filter housing. The associated item numbers and descriptions are from Lowes. You can skip the shutoff ball valves if you want, but it's probably best to include them. You may need additional tubing for the outflow of the reactor to the tank. I recommend Watts braided vinyl tubing since non-braided may kink and cause problems with flow.
Water Filter Housing
At the time of this writing, here are the two most popular opaque water filter housing options that are available from Home Depot and Lowes. Based on my experience as noted above, I recommend you purchase the GE unit from Home Depot.
Available at Home Depot:
GE 3/4 in. Inlet Whole House Water Filtration System
Model Number: GXWH04F
Store SKU Number: 319246
Internet Number: 100471282
Available at Lowes:
Whirlpool Opaque Whole-House Pre-Filtration Housing
Model Number: WHKF-DWH
Item Number: 89374
All other components (available at Lowes):
Description: Genova 1/2-in x 3/4-in Insert Male Adapter
Item Number: 54137
Note: The 3/4" insert size is correct, but you may need a different hose adapter size based on the diameter of your filter's hose. The 1/2" hose adapter size fits well for my Eheim 2217.
Description: American Valve 3/4-in PVC Sch 40 Female In-Line Ball Valve
Item Number: 21482
Note: You can exclude these if you don't want to use them. They're used as shutoff valves for easy removal of the filter housing.
Description: Orbit 6-in Cut-Off Riser (3/4-in x 3/4-in)
Item Number: 194532
Note: Only one of these is needed if you exclude the above shutoff valves. These need to be cut if you want to save space in between the necessary components for which they're used. Only one end can be cut, so make sure you cut the correct end. I cut 4 of the adapters off instead of 5 in order to retain a little bit of space once put together. Please view the picture to see the end result.
Description: LASCO 3/4-in Dia PVC Sch 40 Tee
Item Number: 317762
Description: Watts 3/16-in x 1/4-in Brass Barb Fitting
Item Number: 69301
Note: This was a somewhat tight fit within its accompanying female adapter (#90379 - listed directly below), though both pieces come from the same manufacturer and the sizes are correct. The tight fit hasn't been a problem.
Description: Watts 1/2-in x 1/4-in Brass Pipe Fitting
Item Number: 90379
Description: LASCO 3/4-in Dia x 1/2-in Dia PVC Sch 40 Bushing
Item Number: 51275
Description: Silver-Line Plastics 1/2-in x 2-ft 125-PSI Plastic Coil Pipe
Item Number: 518528
Note: This tube needs to be cut and I cut it down to 9". This fits perfectly inside the available attachment within the cover of the filter housing without the need to use any adhesive.
Miscellaneous components (available at Lowes):
Description: Blue Hawk 43-ft Plumber's Tape
Item Number: 456833
Note: Use this on all threads before attaching each component.
Description: Murray 2-Pack 7/16-in - 29/32-in Dia Stainless Steel Adjustable Clamps
Item Number: 47670
Quantity: 1 (2 per pack)
Note: These clamps are used where the hoses attach to the reactor.
|11-18-2014 12:17 AM|
|AlanLe||Just a funny thought, what if you place a ceramic diffuser inside the reactor? will this increase the dissolving rate?|
|09-18-2014 04:35 AM|
Now for psi, can't really explain it but I just use 25 because I seem to have less back pressure pushing against the co2, even with 2 check valves. The number to isn't as important as how well it diffuses. Hope it works out well!
|09-17-2014 01:46 PM|
I don't have any elbows or bends, straight shots through the unit. I think my problem was the 1/2" pipe originally plus the barbs I used went down to 5/8. I'm going with 3/4 barbs this time, make sure I have no restriction.
|09-17-2014 08:22 AM|
I use a fluval 405 to run my reactor, works great when for its good, once the filter clogges up then diffusion isn't as great, but I have no complaints. The only difference I do is run a 3/4" PVC in my housing. Got mine at HD or Lowes. Might just be to small of a pipe, reason for the lower flow rates. The more 90' bends you have in your pipe the less floor you will receive in the end. Or the opening to the housing from the inflow might be too narrow. Just a thought. Good luck to ya!
Got mine set at 25psi. Just my preference.
|09-16-2014 04:27 AM|
CO2 Regulator Pressure
Just a quick question, those with DIY water filter cerges, what pressure do you set your CO2 regulator output?
|09-16-2014 03:56 AM|
|bsantucci||Those using the home depot GE SmartWater housing, what size PVC did you use for the inside? I got a 1" piece and it slides in, but I don't feel it's tight enough to not fall out. Is there a coupler than can take up the extra millimeter or so or did you just use an aquarium safe epoxy?|
|09-14-2014 03:05 PM|
hahaha... After looking closer I just realized I have mine hooked up backwards... *ugh*
No wonder why I still have bubbles in the tank...sheesh
|09-14-2014 03:50 AM|
I tried and failed miserably at this tonight. Question for you all, is a fluval 406 strong enough to run with a cerges reactor? I bought this as the housing.
When I hooked it all up there was very little flow coming from my return to the tank. 1/2" pvc is what fits the inside of the housing.
So did I do something wrong or is the fluval 406 just not enough to run this? Nothing fancy for the hookups, just two brass barb fittings with the filter hoses on them and one tee on the input line to run the co2.
|07-12-2014 10:58 PM|
Hey guys, got mine built. Big thanks to Everyone.
|07-10-2014 03:49 PM|
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