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Thread: New Finnex High Powered LED Fixture. Input Welcome. Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-21-2012 08:51 PM
Green_Flash My #1 want feature for this fixture:

Dimmible

w/o that I would walk and look for something else.

This is highly important so I can adjust brightness to my plants need.
this is what makes LED lighting great.
12-20-2012 12:18 AM
NyteBlade Is there any info on how the Ray 2's compare to T5HO lighting? For example, for a 24" fixture, would the Finnex Ray 2 be more or less PAR than an equivalent 24" 2x24watt T5HO fixture?
12-19-2012 08:05 PM
TexasCichlid
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phusis_Eidos View Post
I am in the planning stage for a 60p scape. I am almost convinced to go with the RayII 7k fixture, but I am concerned it will be to much light and algae issues will arise. From what I have researched too much light can be very destructive.

Anyone have thoughts on this?
My plant list includes
1. Hemianthus Callitrichoides
2. Ammania Sp. "Bonsai"
3. Fissidens Fontanus
4. Taxiphyllum Sp. "Flame moss"

On a side note I would love to see the previously mentioned upgrades as I would be 100% convinced . One Idea might be to take a plastic privacy film and place it on the fixture to diffuse the light more?

Thanks !
Ray II would be fine. Stay on top of your CO2 or you will regret it.
12-18-2012 10:47 PM
Phusis_Eidos
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrady33 View Post
The algae issue will be directly related to the height of the light off the substrate. I believe a 60 p is 12" deep and 24" wide. A 24" Ray2 is kicking out 74 PAR at that depth, you better be injecting Co2 unless you want an algae farm.

A FugeRay light of the same size is 45 PAR at that depth, Co2 would still be a good idea but you could get away with Excel/glut dosing.

With either light you could raise it higher (hang it instead of mounted on the tank) or use window screening to cut down the light. If I were going the screening route I would take the end cap off the Finnex light and slide the screen inside the plexi splash shield.

(Sorry Lowe - had to add something involving taking it apart )


PS: From what I understand the HC and bonsai are going to require real Co2 injection to grow well, never tried myself.
Thanks! I have a everything for a pressurized C02 System so that is not a problem.
The 60P is 14" high and I am assuming the Finnex fixture sits about .5 to 1" above the tank given how it connects. Regarding Par and plant requirements, how does one determine what is sufficient? Take HC, it has a high light requirement, but there is varying opinions as to what range "high" falls into. Where would someone even begin to suggest a range if not from a scientist?
Tropicas website and other companies that grow aquatic plants must have a range they work with as a base. A par of 45 or 100 is a huge difference. I feel like I am shooting in the dark with this.
Lastly if I am to grow plants that are several inches above the substrate the par will increase. How do I keep GSA and other algae from affecting those plants?

I greatly appreciate everyone's advice! This community has helped me so much
12-18-2012 06:21 PM
jbrady33 The algae issue will be directly related to the height of the light off the substrate. I believe a 60 p is 12" deep and 24" wide. A 24" Ray2 is kicking out 74 PAR at that depth, you better be injecting Co2 unless you want an algae farm.

A FugeRay light of the same size is 45 PAR at that depth, Co2 would still be a good idea but you could get away with Excel/glut dosing.

With either light you could raise it higher (hang it instead of mounted on the tank) or use window screening to cut down the light. If I were going the screening route I would take the end cap off the Finnex light and slide the screen inside the plexi splash shield.

(Sorry Lowe - had to add something involving taking it apart )


PS: From what I understand the HC and bonsai are going to require real Co2 injection to grow well, never tried myself.
12-18-2012 04:38 PM
Phusis_Eidos I am in the planning stage for a 60p scape. I am almost convinced to go with the RayII 7k fixture, but I am concerned it will be to much light and algae issues will arise. From what I have researched too much light can be very destructive.

Anyone have thoughts on this?
My plant list includes
1. Hemianthus Callitrichoides
2. Ammania Sp. "Bonsai"
3. Fissidens Fontanus
4. Taxiphyllum Sp. "Flame moss"

On a side note I would love to see the previously mentioned upgrades as I would be 100% convinced . One Idea might be to take a plastic privacy film and place it on the fixture to diffuse the light more?

Thanks !
10-22-2012 10:58 AM
jbrady33 Enclosed top tanks - on the plastic brackets, the inner flange is removable, kinda slides out. If you take that off, get rid of the clear screws, and adjust the slides so that the outer flange hangs over the edge, you'll be good!

if it were me, I would then put one drop of super glue on one slide on each side, just enough to keep it from moving wider, not so much that I couldn't break it loose if I needed to later.
10-21-2012 12:05 PM
spidernids Any update on the more advanced Ray 2????? I am anxiously waiting.
08-28-2012 03:28 PM
Lowe
Quote:
Originally Posted by temple2101 View Post
+1. I figured out a way to hang my 24" Ray 2 without drilling. Pretty easy, but it would also be easy (with the right tools) to make a plastic bracket that would slide in where the legs do. Could even sell it as an extra. I'd pay for it.
We are looking in to it at the moment! Seeing what our guys come up with!
08-28-2012 03:28 PM
Lowe
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ach1Ll3sH33L View Post
Ive had a 36" ray 2 over my 12 gallon long tank for only a week and my plant's are doing remarkable, look much healthier than when they were under t5-ho lights, couldn't be happier! now time to save for a 24" ray 2
Thanks Finnex!

08-26-2012 06:43 PM
temple2101
Quote:
Originally Posted by nokturnalkid View Post
On the next run of fixtures, you should make them able to be hung without drilling into the fixture amd voiding the warranty. Maybe something like a nut that is welded to the top of the fixture and all the user would have to do is screw in some supplied eye bolts. Or, something that will slide into where the legs go. If you cam make an affordable dimming fixture, then hanging a fixture isn't that big of a deal.
+1. I figured out a way to hang my 24" Ray 2 without drilling. Pretty easy, but it would also be easy (with the right tools) to make a plastic bracket that would slide in where the legs do. Could even sell it as an extra. I'd pay for it.
08-26-2012 06:11 PM
Ach1Ll3sH33L Ive had a 36" ray 2 over my 12 gallon long tank for only a week and my plant's are doing remarkable, look much healthier than when they were under t5-ho lights, couldn't be happier! now time to save for a 24" ray 2
Thanks Finnex!
08-14-2012 05:37 PM
eeng168 My opinion...

If this was addressed in the thread earlier, sorry...I didn't bother reading, just jumped to the end.

I recently bought the 36" DS...

Pros: its slick and thin, lightweight and bright.

semi-Con: the brackets can't be used on an acrylic tank because my tank is enclosed on the top.

I have a 50 gallon which is 36" wide x15" x 18" (or something like that) high.
So, when I put the light in the middle...I feel the back and the front doesn't get enough light.


Then again, before this I was using two 36" 96w Coralife which was probably was overkill. LOL

In all, I really like the Finnex product. I might have to eventually get another one and see how that looks.
08-06-2012 03:01 PM
Lowe
Quote:
Originally Posted by Green_Flash View Post
Would the 18 inch Ray 2 LED on an ADA Mini L (18 x 9.5 x 12) count as low or high light?
12 deep? Understanding high light is a subjective term, I would say you'd have a high light tank.

For a more detailed explanation read through TPT member, Hoppy, posts. One of his that is surely worth reading through: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=184368
08-06-2012 02:54 PM
Lowe
Quote:
Originally Posted by spidernids View Post
Lowe,

Have you ever thought about having custom orders? Maybe a fixed option base, and a higer margin/price point compared to the standard unit. Equivalent to DIY LED with sunrise/sunset dimmers, but would end up being better quality than I could do.

Frank
The problem with custom orders is that we would need to order an ample qty for each particular part to avoid paying a premium. In doing so, as a plus, the bigger the order is the better chance our manufacturer has at first selection of parts as well, as obviously the higher grade LEDs / other parts are snatched first. There's much our manufacturer has to go through and it may not produce a quality product unless the order is not on the large side of the scale. But dont' worry, we do have an advanced model going through the tests right now.
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