|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-01-2012 05:45 PM|
Hey, your tanks look great! I am going to start on my Spec moss wall tonight, thanks for the inspiration! I have a ton of java moss so I will be using that, I should be able to put it on pretty thick for an almost instant moss wall possibly. I think i will try tying mine to the outside of the wall and not sandwich it...whats the benefit of it being sandwiched?
Funny you said your betta looks like a flower - every time I've seen the first pic of him I think its a flower in there, looks like an orchid! Beautiful fish.
|04-19-2012 02:55 AM|
Minor changes today...
Thinned out weeping moss on the right and moved it into the left along with some erectus so that the tank looks some what connected. Gave up on the java moss wall.
Subwassertang - Mine isn't a nice tight ball like ones I've seen. Hopefully this will help.
Weeping Moss - So much nicer than java moss.
Betta - He looks like a flower.
Betta - Still recovering from a case of finrot and blown fin.
|04-16-2012 03:06 AM|
My Tom's 9W light finally arrived so now it's lighting both 2 gallon specs at once. The edges are a little dimmer, but I think it will work with what I have planted in there. Though I have to say it's a bit blue for my liking and I prefer a slightly warmer spectrum.
As for plants I added:
Spec Left: Just a little more anubias nana and a small stone with weeping moss attached.
I decided to change the mesh on the wall because the plastic one was just to thick for light to reach the java moss so I used a thinner mesh, but it has smaller squares so that's the downside compared to the plastic. I haven't seen anything really poke through yet .
Spec Right: Added anubias nana, pogostemon erectus, more staurogyne repens, some subwassertang, that seems to be breaking apart and just floats around all over the place. It's not nice and thick and a ball like some that I've seen. I'm assuming high light will make it grow tighter?
As for the wall on this side I decided to try a weeping moss sewn on the outside of the mesh instead. It's a lot faster than waiting for it to grow through the mesh. I like it so far. When I have enough weeping moss I might move some more into the left tank.
I'm not sure the betta will be able to sustain this much plant growth so I've started dosing more regularly.
I really like the look of the tanks so far. The bettas seem to enjoy their homes, but the left betta has a case of finrot that won't go away. It started after he blew his tail from excess swimming. He also startles easily so he jerks around a lot which doesn't help. Gah...halfmoons are so finicky. So far treating with salt and small water changes.
The one on the right seems to be doing very well and has huge bubble nests.
Btw, the 2 tanks are separated with a piece of cardstock so the bettas can't see each other so they won't be stressed from excessive flaring.
|04-14-2012 11:18 PM|
|MABJ||If you have another tank, an option is to grow it out first there, then move it when it decides to pop through the mesh.|
|04-06-2012 05:38 AM|
Update April 2012.
Original Betta died a few weeks ago. Now I have two specs and one has a pair of Australe Orange Killifish and the other a Halfmoon Betta.
I started a mesh moss wall. Simple Michael's craft mesh and Java moss with suction cups. It was super easy, but all the tutorials I've seen show java moss sandwiched between 2 layers of mesh and then attached to the wall. I only used one layer of mesh and sandwiched the java moss between the mesh and the back wall of the tank because I couldn't fit 2 layers on suction cup due to the thickness.
Just hope it grows. I'm still waiting for my Tom's light so right now it's low low light with my Ikea lamp. Good news is the Betta has already stopped flaring at the back of the tank with the mesh up.
Anyone have suggestions on the moss wall? I'm a little worried the nutrients and light won't get to the moss because of the mesh and back wall. Should I take it apart and use a finer mesh at the back?
|03-26-2012 04:22 AM|
Hmm...do you think the 13 watt fluval light might be overkill on a single 2 gallon? Isn't that beyond the high end of the lighting/watts per gallon rule? Not sure.
Someone recommended the Coralife T5 11" fixture, but I'm not sure if I like the light sitting directly over the top. I would have to remove it every time I need to feed them.
I was thinking it could light both since I have lowlight to medium light plants with excel. I really don't want algae issues. Plus I think the killie and betta would appreciate a dimmer setting. Opinions?
I will try to take a photo tomorrow of my new Mustard gas halfmoon.
|03-26-2012 02:15 AM|
|Basil||You could try having a fixture sit on time of both since they are side by side. If that doesn't suit you you could hang a light above the tanks. If anything I would just go for two fluval fixtures, one for each tank. I would love to see a shot of your new betta.|
|03-26-2012 02:05 AM|
Update? Hmmm....the betta died of dropsy a few weeks ago. It was rather unexpected. Not sure what caused it, but I think it was food related. I have a killifish in there right now and will try to update with a photo soon.
I did set up another Spec as well for my new halfmoon. Hopefully I will be able to update that as well. They sit side by side. I'm going to need a new light for them both. Hopefully I can use just one light to light them both at once. Thinking the 13 fluval light set an an angle.
As for the current...the killie has no issue with it, but I am running the pump at it's lowest with the tubing removed completely. Instead of the water being directed through the tube, the water just sort of spills out of the hole (removed the nozzle too). I also put extra bio media and sponges in that compartment to slow the water down. I plan on doing the same with the new spec. Hopefully the halfmoon will be able to stand a little current.
|03-26-2012 01:20 AM|
|tmccarty||I put a small, very small slit in the tubing in my Spec. It accomplished nothing, lol. Then I gouged a hole into the tubing as if I was taking apart a side of beef. This actually succeeded in slowing the flow down enough for a Crowntail Betta to swim comfortably in. I also added a strip of filter sponge rubber- banded to the output nozzle. This helped even more. Whe the Crowntail made his way to the Ebi I added a Dragonscale Plakat and his zipping around like crazy. Debating on taking off the sponge on the end of the output now.|
|03-25-2012 06:18 PM|
|02-02-2012 03:28 AM|
xenxes, I guess I won't be opening up my light then. I got my betta from a LFS here in Vancouver. He was being sold as a female in a tank full of his sisters. I'm pretty sure he was mislabeled though.
biogenetic, I like to collect interesting pieces of driftwood when I see then at stores especially manzanita. Lucky that I finally found a purpose for this one.
|02-02-2012 01:39 AM|
Originally Posted by atom View Post
|02-02-2012 01:36 AM|
|biogenetic40379||nice tank layout. I can't find any small drift wood at any of the LFS's.|
|02-01-2012 09:48 PM|
xenes, which light are you referring to? The Ikea one? I didn't do any mods to it, but I have noticed it flickers sometimes and goes dimmer. I think it's maybe because I splashed water on the bulb accidently so when it goes dim I have to tap the switch for some reason to fix it. I'm not sure how well it will grow my plants especially the repens. I didn't think I could change the bulb on this light.
Also I just got some marsilea variety of some sort. I'm growing it in my ebi first and hopefully it will be a success so I can transfer some here.
|02-01-2012 08:36 PM|
I ended up ordering my light off Amazon for $10 more, figured the gas for the trip up would cost more. The stock light is orange and very very weak (not the warm white as advertised); it also runs very hot. Did you change the bulb, and if so which one?
Betta looks amazing btw.
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|