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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-31-2011 05:44 AM
Jeffww
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkCobra View Post
BBA seems to sink its roots (rhizomes?) deep in driftwood. Hard for chemicals to reach it, as what you kill on the surface protects what's still living in the wood. An aggressive enough bleach/H2O2 soak to kill everything also breaks down the surface of the wood, leaving it more hospitable for algae regrowth.

Chemicals to remove the surface algae, followed by heat to kill the roots, has been the most effective treatment for me.

If you truly eliminate it from the wood and your tank conditions are right, it will not grow back. Though I have some BBA (on filter plumbing), it doesn't grow on the wood unless something is out of whack.

Keep in mind too that the pro aquascapers submit "glamour shots". Tanks are completely rearranged, trimmed and scrubbed, plants and hardscape added or taken away, lights cranked up many times over normal. Makes for a good photo, but is not representative of the normal state of their tank, or a fair standard by which to compare your tank.
Definitely this. In those iwagumi tanks you see after the plants have established nice and tight they will pull out the rocks and scrub them with brushes and replace them for photo shoots. The plant roots make like a hole for the rocks to be put back into without incident.
08-31-2011 01:39 AM
plantbrain Critter sure help on wood, eg Gold nuggets, Pitbull plecos are excellent, Shrimp, various small plecos will rasp the wood clean.

They also clean glass and rocks.

Better them ...than you.

Basic care often fixes such algae issue though.
08-30-2011 10:37 PM
DarkCobra BBA seems to sink its roots (rhizomes?) deep in driftwood. Hard for chemicals to reach it, as what you kill on the surface protects what's still living in the wood. An aggressive enough bleach/H2O2 soak to kill everything also breaks down the surface of the wood, leaving it more hospitable for algae regrowth.

Chemicals to remove the surface algae, followed by heat to kill the roots, has been the most effective treatment for me.

If you truly eliminate it from the wood and your tank conditions are right, it will not grow back. Though I have some BBA (on filter plumbing), it doesn't grow on the wood unless something is out of whack.

Keep in mind too that the pro aquascapers submit "glamour shots". Tanks are completely rearranged, trimmed and scrubbed, plants and hardscape added or taken away, lights cranked up many times over normal. Makes for a good photo, but is not representative of the normal state of their tank, or a fair standard by which to compare your tank.
08-30-2011 09:28 PM
90galfresh Hope you have good results. I had an outbreak of BBA about a year ago and it started on driftwood. The wood was dry when I got it so I dont think that was the cause, but rather a good place forit to start up. I fought it for a year with water changes, close watch of parameters, CO2, doses of several recommended chemicals and direct squirting on the brushes. It would not stop so I gave up and sterilized the tank and started over. My maintanance habits were pretty good too (never perfect but no neglect). I am on day three of the cycle of a new tank.

BBA is the worst I have ever seen and I only had it the one time. I have had freshwater tanks for over thirty years. I hope to never see it again.

I went to my LFS today where I have gone for many years and every tank is over run with BBA in a bad way. I asked about it and they said they cant get rid of it no matter what they try. I feel for them but wont be getting anything from their water again....its just not worth it.

Best of luck and PLEASE keep us posted. I want to be armed with knowledge in case this happens to me again.
08-21-2011 10:50 PM
Tiff Thanks for the replies everyone My water parameters are fine, lights on for 8 hours, etc. The only thing I can think of of is that I did a partial water change and it got worse. I heard that CO2 is relatively high in well water so there could have been a fluctuation of CO2. I only use a little well water though combined with RO water so not sure how to avoid that?

I know everyone says to deal with the water you have but well water is all I have...after I leave it sitting in a bucket for two days all you see in it is brown. How can that be good for plants/fish???

I'm going to try bleach since that's the only thing I haven't tried.

Thanks again! Cross your fingers because this is my last attempt!!!
08-21-2011 03:08 AM
KH2PO4
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kathyy View Post
I don't have any rocks but I don't scrub my wood. The bristlenose plecos, otos, platies and snails polish off the biofilm and new algae that forms.

Usually I have to clean the front pane of the tank but I haven't for a couple weeks. It wasn't even a little slimy last time I changed water. When the tank was first set up I even had green gravel but it is clean now.

No the tank isn't algae free, the wood just looks fine. I have BGA lurking under the gravel and in the overflow box, GSA in the overflow box and a boffo case of GW. My wood has had BBA in the past and I am sure it will in the future. I can clean the overflow box, use a piece of plastic to push BGA away from the pane's surface and am playing with NPK+micros fighting the GW. When BBA attacks again back to the Excel I go.

I wouldn't mind some algae on the wood or if I had rocks, it makes the tank look more settled in.

This is a downed dead sycamore branch I peeled the bark from in April. Best close up of the wood I have. I don't know if the patterning is from my whittling job or from pleco action. This Anubias has a 150 watt MH directly over it, about 30" away and somewhat shaded with window screen and old acrylic sheets covering the tank.
Thanks, so it could be done.
08-21-2011 02:56 AM
KH2PO4
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bahugo View Post
Figure out the root of the problem and it will not come back. Be it light, co2, nutrients etc. Until you fix the cause you will still have issues even if visually it is gone at one point.
Just saw your tanks. Very nice (the 20g). Very clean woods (both tanks).
Thanks.
08-21-2011 02:45 AM
Kathyy I don't have any rocks but I don't scrub my wood. The bristlenose plecos, otos, platies and snails polish off the biofilm and new algae that forms.

Usually I have to clean the front pane of the tank but I haven't for a couple weeks. It wasn't even a little slimy last time I changed water. When the tank was first set up I even had green gravel but it is clean now.

No the tank isn't algae free, the wood just looks fine. I have BGA lurking under the gravel and in the overflow box, GSA in the overflow box and a boffo case of GW. My wood has had BBA in the past and I am sure it will in the future. I can clean the overflow box, use a piece of plastic to push BGA away from the pane's surface and am playing with NPK+micros fighting the GW. When BBA attacks again back to the Excel I go.

I wouldn't mind some algae on the wood or if I had rocks, it makes the tank look more settled in.

This is a downed dead sycamore branch I peeled the bark from in April. Best close up of the wood I have. I don't know if the patterning is from my whittling job or from pleco action. This Anubias has a 150 watt MH directly over it, about 30" away and somewhat shaded with window screen and old acrylic sheets covering the tank.
08-21-2011 02:12 AM
KH2PO4
Quote:
Originally Posted by KH2PO4 View Post

I'm asking for first-hand experience.
Sorry, it dosn't has to be. Forgive me for the misbehaving.
08-21-2011 01:08 AM
KH2PO4 Hope I'm not hijacking the thread. I think the thing I would like to know concur with the OP.
(I'm about to log off anyway).

It's been my curiosity for quite some time. How are hardscapes (woods, rocks) in top
aquascapers' tanks maintained algae free?.

Like the rocks in this Amano's tank.


Or the wood in this Oliver Knott's tank. Here you can't just soak the piece in bleach solution.
http://www.pbase.com/plantella/moos1

I had thought they were scrubbed every week (or every night!).
But when I read this thread http://ukaps.org/forum/./viewtopic.php?f=21&t=17315
I'm not sure anymore. There is a post saying that in 6 months of using ADA liquid ferts
(which are lean), his rocks didn't get any algae at all. But when he switched to EI ferts,
he had to have them scrubbed every week. Plants were not affected though.

So it might not has to be so-labor-intensive?
(or at least reduce them to a bearable level) on hardscapes?

I'm asking for first-hand experience.
08-21-2011 12:35 AM
Bahugo Figure out the root of the problem and it will not come back. Be it light, co2, nutrients etc. Until you fix the cause you will still have issues even if visually it is gone at one point.
08-20-2011 11:44 PM
KH2PO4 Oh, it has to be in the tank in the first place.
How can it be only on the wood and not in the tank?
There are numbers of them (algae) already in EVERY tank, just in dormant.

The question still not answered, c'mon, I'd like to know.
Is there a guideline to maintain the wood algae free?
Less ferts in water column?
Or we all have to scrub here, Excel there every week?
08-20-2011 11:31 PM
audioaficionado If you bleach it and it comes back, it's in your tank and not just the wood.
08-20-2011 10:09 PM
KH2PO4
Quote:
Originally Posted by mistergreen View Post
You have to soak it in a bleach solution (cheapest out of H2O2 & excel). When the BBA turns white, it's dead. Usually takes 15 minutes or so.
And redo that when it comes back? What to do if there are fern/moss on it?

I wonder how those super clean and beautiful woods with moss in those
"hi-fashion" tanks are maintained. Or BBA can't grow in those super-balanced tanks?

In short, is it possible to prevent BBA growing on woods?

There are guidelines for BBA on plants but I've never seen one
for woods or hardscape.
08-20-2011 09:25 PM
mistergreen You have to soak it in a bleach solution (cheapest out of H2O2 & excel). When the BBA turns white, it's dead. Usually takes 15 minutes or so.
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