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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-13-2014 04:48 PM
Bettatail Updated:
All Parker HR Series valves, the valve cartridge and the valve body are inter-changeable.
11-18-2013 08:07 PM
FlyingHellFish Wait a min, you're suppose to use a filter for these parkers? Where does one even go in these things?

2 micron particle filter?

uhhhhhh?

BettaTails, where art thou?
11-18-2013 05:39 PM
pwu_1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bettatail View Post
Tested! now I am settle with the metering valve for my personal co2 system.

Takes too much turn to increase/decrease the bubble rate, miss the swagelok S series which is fast and accurate to set the bubbles. lol.
There is a problem of this metering valve though: like the Parker hannifin H2A, H3L, the brooks NRS needs higher pressure differential.
They all have the extremely small orifice and longer orifice passage(tube), so water/oil/dust can easily settled in the passage and clog the valve if the pressure differential is low. Higher pressure differential, water/oil/dust can easily be pushed through, so better to set the regulator output with higher pressure.

also, due to small orifice, need particle filters, the manual recommend a 2 micron particle filter
I guess a 7 micron particle filter is sufficient because the flow rate is about 1-2 sccm (1 bubble/second). Orifice is big enough for the 7 micron particles to pass through.



Hi bettatail, I'm trying to put together a budget friendly co2 setup. Could only find these Brooks NRS series valves at the price that I can afford.
I'm actually not even sure which version I'm getting since the ebay listing wasn't very clear. Guess I'll know when it gets here. Anyways, in your opinion, other than having to turn it many turns to get the desired bubble count(this is probably dependent on which version I get right? since you got the most precise version), if I set my output pressure to say 40psi, the needle valve should work fine right? Or should I set my output pressure higher?
Thanks for all the info btw. It was very helpful
08-18-2013 04:03 PM
oldpunk78
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROOTBEER View Post
where can I get this valv? this looks exakly what I am loking for ,, can this also controll liquid ?
Search for 'parker metering valve' on fleabay. You're looking for a h3.
08-18-2013 09:30 AM
ROOTBEER
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bettatail View Post


The vernier handle is the best I've seen so far, with Turn Counter.
and the orifice of this valve is off scale, really small. Small orifice and low CV, the actual flow rate is suppose to be really small, but need to test it, which haven't done yet.

where can I get this valv? this looks exakly what I am loking for ,, can this also controll liquid ?
08-18-2013 09:19 AM
ROOTBEER
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bettatail View Post
Post this just want to give some more options on choosing the right metering valves for our DIY CO2 rig build.
please post a picture of the metering valve if you are the lucky guy have one of the valves from the bottom of the list.

also in this thread.
*Solenoid valves selection
*Adjust bubble rate.



Metering/needle vales, Cv (flow coefficient) under 0.1 only


Swagelok 20 series needle valve, soft seat stem. Part number SS(B)-20R*
Orifice: 0.08"
Cv: 0.09 (at 2.5 turn full open)

Swagelok O series needle valve, soft seat stem. Part number SS(B)-OR*
Orifice: 0.08"
Cv: 0.09 (at 8 turn full open)

Pneumadyne (Pneumatic Control System), 700 series needle valve, Part number: C070301/C070501/C070601, made in UK
Thanks to kevmo911, who shine the light on this 700 series needle valve and present the .pdf data
Orifice: N/A
Cv: 0.09 (at 12 turn full open)

SMC AS2000 series needle valve, Part number: AS2???-*
Orifice: N/A
Cv: N/A ( At 4 turn SCFM is 0.88 SCFM, after 4 turn flow rate spike)

Clippard MNV-3/4 series needle valve, part number MNV-3* , MNV-4*
Orifice: 0.07"(MNV-3), 0.067"(MNV-4)
Cv: N/A (at 4 turn SCFM is 1, Cv is under 0.03 before 4 turns, after 4 turns, Cv spike)
owned

Ideal valve 52(brass)/54(stainless steel)--2 series, Part number 52-2-*, 54-2-*
Orifice: 0.0625"
Cv: 0.082 (at 20 turn, 22-24 turn full open)

Hoke 2300 series metering valve, 8 degree angle stem
Orifice: 0.062"
Cv: 0.075 (at 20 turn full open)
owned

Parker Hannifin NM series, Part number *-NM?-*-*-*-*
Orifice: N/A
Cv: 0.055 (at 14 turn full open)

Fabco NV55/FC55 needle valve, Part number NV-55, NV-55-18, FC-55
Orifice: N/A
Cv: N/A (approximately at 0.04, The SCFM is 1.7 at 10 turn full open, similar to swagelok 31 series)

SMC AS1000 Series needle valve, Part number AS120?-*
Orifice: N/A
Cv: N/A (approximately at 2.83 SCFM at 10 turn, but the flow curve is concaved, at 4.5 turn is 0.71 SCFM compare to NV-55 which is 0.95+ SCFM at 4.5 turn.
owned

Parker Hannifin HR series, Stem type 5, Part number: *-H5?-*-*-*
Orifice:N/A
Cv: 0.049 (at 15 turn full open)

Parker Hannifin NS series, Part number *-NS?-*-*-*
Orifice: N/A
Cv: 0.042 (at 14 turn full open)

Swagelok 31 series metering valve, Part number SS(B)-31R*(tested, orifice is too big at low turn)
Orifice: 0.062"
Cv: 0.04 (at 10 turn full open)
owned

Parker Hannifin HR series, Stem type 4, Part number: *-H4?-*-*-*
Orifice:N/A
Cv: 0.032 (at 15 turn full open)

Swagelok Belows-sealed metering valve, Part number SS-4BMG, SS-4BMW(weld port)
Orifice: N/A
Cv: 0.019 (at 6 turn full open)
(Tested, Orifice is too big, at low turn doesn't work well)
owned

Swagelok M series metering valve, Part number SS(B)-?MG*, SS(B)-?MA*
Orifice: 0.056"
Cv: 0.03 (at 9 turn full open)
double pattern, dual handle
Cv: 0.026 ( at 9 turn full open)
owned

Ham-Let HF1300 series metering valve, 3 degree stem angle, Part number HF13??-*-*
Orifice: 0.055"
Cv: 0.03 (at 11 turn full open)

Fujikin UN series metering valve, L mark on top of the vernier handle, made in Japan
Orifice: 1.8MM
Cv: 0.03 (at 14 turn full open)
owned

Hoke Millimite 1300 series metering vale, 3 degree angle stem.
Orifice: 0.047"
Cv: 0.024 ( at 18 turn full open)

Parker Hannifin HR series, Stem type 3, Part number: *-H3?-*-*-*
Orifice:N/A
Cv: 0.021 (at 15 turn full open)

Fujikin High Pressure series metering valve, Part number: N/A, made in Japan
Orifice: 1.6MM
Cv: 0.017 (at 12 turn full open)

Fujikin UN/DUN series metering valve, made in Japan
Orifice: 1.5MM
Cv: 0.015 (at 14 turn full open)

Ideal valve 52(brass)/54(stainless steel)--1 series, Part number 52-1-*, 54-1-*
Orifice: 0.0313"
Cv: 0.019 (at 20 turn, 22-24 turn full open, approximate Cv 0.008 -0.009 at 10 turn)

Parker Hannifin HR series, Stem type 2, Part number: *-H2?-*-*-*
Orifice:N/A
Cv: 0.014 (at 15 turn full open)

Swagelok 21/22 series metering valve, Part number: *-21???-*, *-22???-*,
These are the mystery discontinued swagelok precision low flow control valve, and thanks to kevmo911, who shine the light on the 21/22 series and present the .pdf data.
Orifice: 0.02"
Cv: 0.007 (at 8 turn full open)
owned(TESTED! Due to the small orifice and long needle stem of this valve, the actual CV/turn and flow rate at low turn is a real small number, 0.1 bubble adjustment is possible on JBJ bubble counter)
Kevmo911 is the hero to bring this metering valve back to life...

Hoke Millimite 1300 series metering vale, 1 degree angle stem.
Orifice: 0.047"
Cv: 0.011 ( at 18 turn full open)
owned

Hoke 2300 series metering valve, 1 degree angle stem
Orifice: 0.062"
Cv: 0.01 (at 20 turn full open )

Parker Hannifin HR series, Stem type 1, Part number: *-H1?-*-*-*
Orifice:N/A
Cv: 0.007 (at 15 turn full open)

Fujikin PUN series metering valve, made in Japan
Orifice: N/AMM
Cv: 0.004 (at 10 turn full open)

Swagelok S series metering valve, Part number SS(B)-SS* , SS(B)-SM*
Orifice: 0.032"
Cv: 0.004 (at 10 turn full open)
double pattern, dual handles
Cv: 0.001 ( at 10 turn full open)
owned

Ham-Let HXF1300 series metering valve, 1 degree stem angle, Part number HXF13??-*-*
Orifice: 0.03"
Cv: 0.004 (at 11 turn full open)

Hoke Micromite 1600 series metering valve.
Orifice: 0.031"
Cv: 0.0008 (at 18 turn full open)
owned

Parker Hannifin HR series, Stem type 0, Part number: *-H0?-*-*-*
Orifice:N/A
Cv: 0.0004 (at 15 turn full open)

Chell Ultra-Fine Mechanism Needle Valve, needle 1 model, Made in UK
Orifice: N/A
Cv: N/A
(The lowest flow rate valve I know, for our application. 20 turn full open. Max flow rate is 20 SCCM(standard cubic centimeter per minute), which is 0.02 liter per minute at full open, 145psi pressure differential. Listed price: $500+, manufacture handling/shipping: $115, Total cost to get it in the us $600+.)
owned.

Vacoa valve
0-1.8CC, the spaceship valve, flow rate too low, not for our fish tank.

(On going, next : Aalborg. )


Please let me know if you see any other metering valves that not here and can be used in our DIY CO2 pressurized system.




what solenoid do you want to use?

Clippard solenoid(MME-2SDS-*), and Burkert 6011 solenoid are the most commonly seen in our application, they are 1/8" NPT ports and ready to fit pipe fittings.
but they are 6.5 watt and 4 watt power consumption and create a lot of heat for 8 hours on, also, the fluid media(CO2) flow is never fast enough to draw away the heat. The heat, creates core melting, metal(spring) fatigue, cracked O-ring problems, and shorten the lives of these valves.
Burkert is a tag better because it is 4 watt and create less heat than a Clippard(MME-2SDS-*).
Parker Skinner B series 1/8" NPT ports solenoid valves(6 watt, 7 watt) are not that common, but actually better, because they are full metal body, faster heat dispatch than the said Clippard and the Burkert.
Parker Skinner C series solenoid valves are even better, 1/8" NPT ports, full metal body and only 2 or 3 watt power consumption, but hard to find one.
The clippard mouse solenoid is the best I know so far, only 0.67 watt power consumption and designed for low flow applications(that is our setups), 1 billion official on/off cycle life, full metal body, doesn't even feel warm when operate. But this valve is not 1/8" NPT ports ready, need adapters or sometimes, need some metal working to make them connect to pipe fittings.

These solenoid valve are all high quality industrial valves, they all have on/off cycle lives that is not less than 100 million. Failed solenoid are commonly seem in our applications because the way we use it, for at least 7 hours on and the fluid is not be able to take away the heat. Constantly heated/overheated condition shorten the lives of solenoid valves and fail them.
So whichever creates less heat(less power consumption) wins.


How to adjust the bubble rate.
For no pressure in the post body system start up.
1. set the output pressure of the regulator at 30-50 psi.
2. close all needle valves, turn on the solenoid.
3. open the needle valve, slowly, monitor the bubble rate, every time you turn the needle valve, wait 20 seconds or longer, depends on how long the tubing from the needle valve to the diffuser, the longer the tubing, the longer time you need to wait. stop when the desire bubble rate reach.
4. (this step omitted if using a reactor-no backward pressure)wait until the diffuser starts cracking out bubbles, then wait 20 minutes.
5. Adjust the needle valve again, 20 seconds or longer waiting time each time you turn the needle valve, once the desire bubble rate reach, stop.
6. let the system run for half an hour.
7A. if there is no change of bubble rate after half an hour, you can lock the locking handle of the needle valve(for SMC AS1200 needle valve), and it is all done.
7B. if there is no signification change of the bubble rate, repeat step 5 and 6.
7C. if there is significant change of the bubble rate after half an hour, use soapy water leak check the system, from the outlet of the regulator to the diffuser(if no leak, what is the needle valve you use?)
-----------------------------------------------------------------
The Metering(Needle) Valve Selection for CO2 Pressurized System
Complete Leak check, Double Stage Regulator Pressurized system


can I buy this valvs from you??
06-06-2013 12:05 AM
Bettatail
Quote:
Originally Posted by mwuf15 View Post
Is the ss-4bmg valve any good?
answered.
06-04-2013 06:02 PM
mwuf15 Is the ss-4bmg valve any good?
05-04-2013 02:51 AM
Bettatail
Quote:
Originally Posted by willygog View Post
worked fine thanks again,,
a little bit late to check your questions, and glad that both darkblade and oldpunk provided help and you got it taken care.

anyway, here is some instruction pictures, others who have the same question will have good idea how to adjust the metering handle.









05-03-2013 10:45 PM
willygog worked fine thanks again,,
05-03-2013 09:54 PM
willygog hmm ok i'll see if i can figure that out...lol
thanks, i'll let ya know if it worked out ok or not
05-03-2013 09:26 PM
oldpunk78 Swagelok factory sets those things there. It can go down lower, you just need to be careful not to close the valve with the needle or you might break it off.

All you have to do is loosen the larger allen and pull the handle out a little.
05-03-2013 06:39 PM
willygog Hi, well i didnt buy a pre made unit after all, i found a ss-ss2 swagelok valve, and an aquatech regulator, i have it all plumed in but i found an interesting thing, right from the start this thing is puttin out 1 bps turned off, is there a way to reseat it , or what would the advice be.. i have it all done, no leaks, looks great but looks dont count.. soooo what can i do.. line pressure is preset from aquatech at 60psi.. is that a problem, i have another regulator unit that does have adjustment but i liked the looks of the aquatech .. help

04-15-2013 12:49 AM
willygog i am going to bite the bullet, with starting from bare reg it isnt a cost saver ,, I was able to find a suitable one to get, its the Milwaukee MA957 with bubble counter ...100. to the door.. That good enough for a beginners unit?
04-15-2013 12:25 AM
Darkblade48
Quote:
Originally Posted by willygog View Post
hello and thanks for the advice, yes the regulator isnt really for this type of application., it has a guage to show if its full or not.. then it has the metering valve which is a ball in a glass tube.. and it starts at .5cfm.. i guess i was just trying to find a less expensive way than a new regulator..
I'll see if there is anyone selling one on the trading post..
What you described is not a metering valve, but a flow valve. This is not suitable for our purposes, as it will not afford the fine control that is required.

It sounds like you need to purchase a needle/metering valve in addition to replacing the gauge on your regulator.
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