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  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-14-2014 12:54 PM
I know it has been over a year and a half...

Originally Posted by wkndracer View Post
Comes up a bunch with folks wondering what to do. I was no different starting out.
I know it's been a while since this thread was made or used last, but I found it really helpful. I searched through some other threads, but they weren't this one. I felt it was worth the bump to preserve that info for other guys like me, who have been coasting along and suddenly this matters. This is one of the reasons I believe this forum is an invaluable resource to the hobby, even for scrubs like me who don't have a ton of experience or post much, and I just want to say thanks.
10-19-2012 08:48 PM
Originally Posted by DKRST View Post
Those are his "plecoware" food holders. Great item! I have two.
Hahahahaha! My snail would love those!
10-17-2012 04:43 PM
Originally Posted by SpecGrrl View Post
Great post!
What are those awesome corkscrews skewering your veggies?!?
Those are his "plecoware" food holders. Great item! I have two.
10-17-2012 02:33 PM
Originally Posted by wkndracer View Post
24hr update and 6/6

Just adding the day after.
Food,wood, cave and happy fish

Today is day #1 on my quarantine count down
Great post!

What are those awesome corkscrews skewering your veggies?!?
07-26-2012 04:54 PM
kind reply

Hi Jules! I didn't see this post until today.
Thrilled to hear you think the information helped and congrats on taking the step forward to do a proper entry quarantine for the protection of your existing critters.
Never gave a thought to things I couldn't see either until my luck ran out and tragedy struck.

Thank you for the feedback and kind reply on the effort to share
07-24-2012 07:13 PM
Jules @ Wkndracer,
Thanks for this extremely informative thread! I've always known I ought to quarantine, but never really looked into how long I should do it or anything.

This thread inspired me to finally get my act together: I got an order of wild caught fish in June, and followed the procedure outlined here (worming the fish is such an obviously good idea I can't believe it never occurred to me). As a result I spared my main tank from a case of ich, and probably a variety of internal parasites.
02-24-2012 04:40 PM
Retrogamer82 Awesome thread man, this thread is as informative as it is persuasive.
12-02-2011 11:33 PM

24hr update and 6/6

Just adding the day after.
Food,wood, cave and happy fish

Today is day #1 on my quarantine count down
12-02-2011 10:23 AM
Receiving fish

OK most of us know this but some don't so I thought I'd add it to the QT thread. What to do with fish that have been shipped to you.
More than one method out there and here's one of mine.

Receiving fish shipped in Kordon breather bags the Kordon company tells you NOT to float the bags. (I'm good with that, their product so they make the rules)
Standard plastic bags can be handled the same way.

Received today were 6 juvenile L144 ancistrus.
They were properly purged for 24hrs prior to shipping so the water wasn't too bad in the bags.

Materials/equipment list;
Receiving tank - 10g bare tank with cycled Mattenfilter and fresh water in the tank. Heater set 80F tank temp. for these fish.
Container for acclimating and parameter matching (even a pitcher will do). I have a 'fish box' I use for transporting fish to the LFS.
Prime, air pump and air stone, measuring cup, timer (I need the timer LOL)

This acclimation will involve between 1/2 to 3/4 gallons of water total so I first add 0.5ml of prime to my container which is enough for 5gal of water per Seachem instruction. Just drops of Prime are all that's required. Because Prime thickens the water I place an air stone in the container then start opening my shipping bags and pouring the water and fish in the container. As the O2 level rises in the water any ammonia in the shipping water is taken care of by the Prime dose so my fish are safe from ammonia burn. The actual water volume at the starting point when the bags are opened and dumped in the box is about 1qt. You can see the bubbles created in the 'thickened' water with Prime at this >5x dosage. It's steadily diluted as tank water is added.

Here's where the timer and measuring cup come in.
My cup holds 8oz. filled and I start with 4-6oz. adding tank water every 5 minutes.
After 20 minutes (The water in my delivered fish bags was pretty chilly)
I add full 8oz. cups every 5 minutes until the water volume is doubled or slightly more in my container.

This is then drained off into the sink and I repeat the filling process again.
Overkill maybe but the breeder/shipper has hard water and mine is very soft.
Once this is completed the water is good to go but the temperature is still slightly off.
I put the fish in a tank box like you see at the LFS and float that in the tank for 15-20 minutes.
Again drain off the majority of the water then release the fish into the tank with the lights off and only room lighting.

While they are starving after 24hrs of purge and three days in a box nobody gets fed here the first day.
Tomorrow morning these guys will get a veggie wafer, fresh zucchini and a piece of driftwood added into the tank.
After 3 days or a week they go into a planted quarantine tank for worming/parasite treatments and observation.
All things being good into they're own tank in a month. Hopefully a year from now they will be a breeding group of blue eyes.

this works for me hope it helps somebody
11-23-2011 07:28 PM
Originally Posted by AccidentProne001 View Post
Are there any of the pharmaceutical or patent meds ( wormers, antibiotic, antiparasitic ) which would kill the plants ?
Yes many do is why I listed those known to be safe and ask members knowing of others that are safe to include them in a post to this thread.
11-23-2011 05:05 PM
AccidentProne001 Are there any of the pharmaceutical or patent meds ( wormers, antibiotic, antiparasitic ) which would kill the plants ?
11-21-2011 05:32 PM
touch of sky Wkndracer,
Very interesting and informative thread. Thank you for the hard work that went into it.
11-21-2011 04:06 PM
fresh.salty This is from a thread I started a couple days ago. Op here suggested it be reposted in this thread in hopes of having an all-in-one QT thread. I agree, so...

Maintaining a quarantine tank long term

I've always wondered about the best way to keep a quarantine tank running continuously with minimal power usage.

All that's needed to set one up once you have the need is a tank, filter and heater. Light would be nice but would depend on where the tank is located. If you wait until the need arises I've considered it somewhat counterproductive without a cycled filter to use. If your QT period is as long as it should be the tank would be ready for fish about the time the QT period is over.

For me, space to keep one running continuously isn't an issue. I have room in the garage and room at my business to keep it running. The cost of heating it though only to use it a few times a years has been my concern.

Keeping the bacteria colonies alive with a food source seems easy enough, just a pinch of food every once in a while. Temperature of an unheated tank had me wondering what would happen to those colonies.

Last week I asked these questions of Timothy A. Hovanec, Ph.D. via email. He's the owner of Dr. Tim's Aquatics and formerly of Marineland. I met him briefly about 15 years ago at Marineland's corporate office in Moorpark, CA when I was training for point of sale sales program they had. That was a fun job and I did that for several years.

Anyway, here's the conversation. I'll breakup my two-part question and his answers.

I explained the questions were regarding keeping a QT tank ready and I wrote...

> #1 food source to maintain at least minimal biologic activity. My
> thinking is an occasional pinch of flake food or whatever would
> solve that.

Dr. Tim's response...
some fish food or a drop or two of ammonium chloride once in a
while. the bacteria do NOT die if not fed everyday (they are not
human) so periodic feeding keeps them going
I wrote...
> #2 temperature How important is temperature range? If you keep a
> quarantine tank in the garage in SoCal without heat it can still
> get down in to the 50's. When it comes time to make use of the
> tank, say at 77, how will that effect the viability of the
> bacteria? Is there a tighter temp range that we should aim for?
> Simple thing would be to just keep the tank warm but I prefer not
> to spin the power meter any faster than necessary.

Dr. Tim's response...
As long as the water does not freeze being colder is actually better
for 'preserving' the bacteria because it slows them down. Think of
if this way - they are an energy cell with a capacity of X. The rate
they use up X is temperature dependent - the lower the temp the
slower they use X. But they can respond very fast - plug the heater
in and let the temperature rise into the 70's and they will start
working very fast. We did this with the old BioSpira - kept in a
refrigerator around 50 F at the store and then pour into the aquarium
around 75F and they go to work immediately.
I'll glad to see that with minimal ongoing cost I can maintain a tank that would be ready once it's brought out of hibernation in a short time.

Found this interesting and hopefully prevents some from bypassing a QT
period and risking all the other livestock. I know it's not possible for everyone.

But then maybe everyone but me already knew this. lol

Above from...
09-22-2011 02:43 PM
DKRST I keep my 10g QT up and running. After treatment, there should not be any nasties left in the QT tank. I add plant trimmings, sometimes snails (the Flu kills MTS very quickly), and keep a couple of deformed guppies (too soft-hearted to cull) in the tank to keep it cycled and pleasantly decorated.

NOTE - I now also QT my plants after getting some unwanted snails introduced.
09-22-2011 02:42 PM
wkndracer I leave mine setup and only in case of ugly break it down.
Only once in 2 years have I felt the quarantine needed cleaning.
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