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Thread: Spectral Analysis for LEDs for use over planted aquaria; Graphs here! Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-22-2011 04:43 AM
redfishsc Anyone else have any particular LED combos they've used based on this spectral study?
10-01-2011 12:50 PM
redfishsc
Quote:
Originally Posted by plantbrain View Post
No, I just look and am interested in LED's and the various drivers and types. I also dim the blues.....the bridge lux are surprisingly good.

I'll be redoing the various tanks I have with different arrays, 6000K Cree's and the 8000K mostly, maybe some 10K with the 6000's.

Yeah I would probably dim the blues a touch (maybe 30% lower) if I could with that 11g tank, but they are all on the same driver so I just live with it since it looks great anyhow.


If you are using 10K combined with anything, I recommend you try warm whites (3,000K). A warm white LED is much more "amber" than it is "ugly yellow" to the eye...... at least the Cree, Rebel, and Bridgelux are.

A 10K LED and 6000K LED are going to be remarkably similar in blue output, but the red/yellow/amber portion will be quite low, which means the tank will have an overall anemic look, if my predictions are right.


A 10K and warm white combo I imagine would look much more pleasing and be just as photosynthetically useful.
09-30-2011 06:10 AM
WingoAgency I personally like a tank with Cree CW and Neutral White plus some 12,000K BridgeLux combo.

Additional colors are a splash of red and green.

I will add blue only if the tank is for cichlid
09-30-2011 06:06 AM
plantbrain
Quote:
Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
Thanks, and I'm so glad you were the first person to respond here. You must have a Google auto-search set up here .

As for our eyes, I prefer the higher K temp look. Right now I'm using a reef-recycled 1:1 cool white/royal blue over my 11g rimless and even at equal power to both colors, it's not too bad. Too blue, but not terrible.

I prefer to dim the blues down to about 24% of the whites, but I suspect running them all at equal currents in a 1:1:1 (cool white, warm white, royal blue) will look very, very nice. We'll find out in a couple months when I change my LED setup.
No, I just look and am interested in LED's and the various drivers and types. I also dim the blues.....the bridge lux are surprisingly good.

I'll be redoing the various tanks I have with different arrays, 6000K Cree's and the 8000K mostly, maybe some 10K with the 6000's.
09-30-2011 04:19 AM
redfishsc Let me officially say that I love the following combo for beautiful good looks.

1 warm white, 1 cool white, 1 neutral white, 1 royal blue.


I've used this for 4-5 months now and it is extremely colorful.

Here is a fairly low quality pic. It reminds me a LOT of the colors we can get from T5's. But, with the awesome shimmer.




I will be converting this tank to a reef soon, though. I'll just add a few more blues and use a cheap DealExtreme driver.
05-22-2011 06:36 AM
vee Excellent post! Thank you.
05-11-2011 12:30 AM
redfishsc
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4f1hmi View Post
VEry nice information! Thanks for sharing. Your graphs literally cemented my 100% confidence with LED's for our planted tanks. Excellent job!
Thank you, and glad I could be of help.

LEDs make good reading lamps too , the neutral whites are very soft on the eyes. Warm whites are too orange for my eyes.
05-11-2011 12:29 AM
redfishsc
Quote:
Originally Posted by leprechaun View Post
Actually, if you still have access to the S2000 you could calibrate the unit to ambient sunlight, then use the spectrometer to collect a power measurement of the LED. If you are using a fiber in the arrangement, the type of fiber chosen will impact the results. Fused silica would be my recommendation if taking this route. Collimation of light is not really necessary, as it will not be indicative of the conditions of LED use within a planted tank.

In terms of a PAR meter... I'd love to play with one as well, but I am limited to spectrometers. One bit of info a spectrometer yields that a PAR meter does not is the distribution of the light across the UV/Vis spectrum. This may help match light sources to the specific needs of the chromophores in the plant, but as said before, different species of plant have slightly different wavelength needs.
I don't have access to it, at least not easily. My friend Joe has taken a job with SeCor and will be leaving soon and he's the only access to a spectrometer I have.

PAR meter is a different story, lots of those around. I just need a good benchtop power supply to keep the numbers dead constant from one LED to the next.
05-10-2011 09:49 PM
4f1hmi VEry nice information! Thanks for sharing. Your graphs literally cemented my 100% confidence with LED's for our planted tanks. Excellent job!
05-10-2011 09:34 PM
audioaficionado Even ambient sunlight is highly variable as to the time of day and year, atmospheric conditions, latitude, etc.
05-10-2011 09:14 PM
leprechaun For those interested (and who haven't already seen it) here is a study of PAR calculations from a MH bulb. Maybe not directly related to this topic, but it has some nice background and gives me a few ideas... although the wife will probably kill me.
05-10-2011 08:55 PM
leprechaun
Quote:
Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
But I greatly appreciate your criticism. There are always things we can improve on.

If I could afford one of these, I'd buy it. I'd rather have this than a PAR meter since, if one is clever, you could probably produce some sort of way of getting PAR numbers based on the intensity levels given by the machine. Besides, you can find PAR meters all over the place if you live near a larger city.

Then again, I am just an average hobbyist with very NOT-average interests. Most people would do better with a PAR meter if they can afford it.
Actually, if you still have access to the S2000 you could calibrate the unit to ambient sunlight, then use the spectrometer to collect a power measurement of the LED. If you are using a fiber in the arrangement, the type of fiber chosen will impact the results. Fused silica would be my recommendation if taking this route. Collimation of light is not really necessary, as it will not be indicative of the conditions of LED use within a planted tank.

In terms of a PAR meter... I'd love to play with one as well, but I am limited to spectrometers. One bit of info a spectrometer yields that a PAR meter does not is the distribution of the light across the UV/Vis spectrum. This may help match light sources to the specific needs of the chromophores in the plant, but as said before, different species of plant have slightly different wavelength needs.
05-10-2011 04:39 AM
Rockhoe14er great post
05-10-2011 04:29 AM
redfishsc
Quote:
Originally Posted by leprechaun View Post
I suppose at 12" it wouldn't really make much difference for this application. I guess I'm too picky here also, as slight misalignments (a few um) cause me major problems.
But I greatly appreciate your criticism. There are always things we can improve on.

If I could afford one of these, I'd buy it. I'd rather have this than a PAR meter since, if one is clever, you could probably produce some sort of way of getting PAR numbers based on the intensity levels given by the machine. Besides, you can find PAR meters all over the place if you live near a larger city.

Then again, I am just an average hobbyist with very NOT-average interests. Most people would do better with a PAR meter if they can afford it.

I look forward to the day we can get them more affordably. I've thought about buying the sensor and hooking it up to my multimeter, which should be accurate enough (it measures down to 0.0 millivolts) but I can't justify the expense right now.
05-10-2011 04:25 AM
leprechaun
Quote:
Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
The 10-reading was ambient sunlight from the windows and it was very much indirect--- and resulted in a nominal value of 10 all across the board (no spikes). All artificial lights were turned off. The 10 was consistent across the board, which we verified about 30 times (glancing at it in between LEDs) and never once saw a spike.

The 10 ambient noise is quite consistent in every graph. How is this concerning? I admit a 0 would be perfect but I don't see how it would be necessary since it was consistent across the board.
I suppose a "dark" measurement taken when LED is off could eliminate the ambient sunlight. If it was consistent, I suppose it doesn't really matter. I guess I'm used to seeing maximum intensity around 68000 counts with approximately 100 counts for background noise, but we're talking about a whole different arrangement. Background noise of 10% would indicate a massive problem in our systems.


Quote:
Once my finals are over for the semester in a few weeks I can upload a pic of the wooden jig I built to hold these steady. While I can't claim any sort of extreme accuracy, the wooden jigs held the LED's quite tight in their arrangement.

The wooden jig was placed under the probe to fit on all 4 sides along a marker-line that was drawn, so there would have been no more than 1/8" difference in the placement of the LEDs from one test to the next. At a 12" distance I see no reason to suspect this would corrupt the data enough to worry about, for our purposes.
I suppose at 12" it wouldn't really make much difference for this application. I guess I'm too picky here also, as slight misalignments (a few um) cause me major problems.
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