|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|03-14-2017 12:07 AM|
Originally Posted by Funken_A View Post
I was able to try some Circle Seal Controls MV92 series micro-metering valves I grabbed off eBay for a couple of $. They're 0.020 orifice/.0096 cv and are working great.
|12-31-2016 11:23 AM|
|Stacy1||Just finished all 20 pages. Another "Must Read" for people building their first regulator. Thanks to everyone who contributed. Id be lost without this info|
|05-13-2016 04:19 AM|
So I think I eventually identified what the issue was. I had a one way valve bubble counter after the metering needs. Directly off it. Was a cheap eBay item much like all of the rest. The little clear bubble counter that you attach the hose to the top. Bottom screws onto the metering needle, fill it with mineral / baby oil, and then you can see what the rate is. Like this: .
Well that just happened to have a ball bearing that probably acted as the one way valve (from the bottom of the bubble counter). Anyway that ball bearing seemed to be the cause of the issue. It was what was rattling and possibly stopping the flow. It was so close to the metering needle that even with my head up to the system I thought the sound was originating in the needle valve and it's what caused the problems. Tapping the metering valve would often unstick the ball and so for the longest time I did think it was a valve. Now I know it's the bubble counter I can replace that.
|02-18-2016 02:08 AM|
I'll try to capture a video of it. The rattling is definitely the Parker valve. And they are a type that does allow it to be fully closed. The solenoid is somewhat an issue (crushed o-ring) but I have a brand new one in going to install tonight.
This is further up stream from the regulator and that doesn't have an effect. The check valve is also a long way way (I have the tank in one corner of the room and run about 5 metres of time before the check valve.
The rattling is something that goes away if I give the valve a half to full turn one way and then back. But that shouldn't be something I need to do. I'll try fully opening the valve and see if that helps. Maybe even an alcohol bath on the needle portion to make sure it's not some sort of grit stuck in there might be worthwhile too?
It's a really nice piece of machinery that I've had for years but only just started using as I never had a tank before. It's the same as the Parker valves the poster about 6 posts above (with the pictures and dual valves) uses.
|02-17-2016 09:33 PM|
Originally Posted by lksdrinker View Post
seemed unlikely but I'm only the messenger..
Nothing should "rattle" in either a metering nor solenoid valve AFAICT..........
|02-17-2016 09:06 PM|
Make sure your solenoid is installed correctly (inlet vs outlet). Also check your check valve to see if it's not installed backward.
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|02-17-2016 09:04 PM|
Originally Posted by Simpsoid View Post
the noise you're hearing is interesting though and brings my thoughts back to a blockage of some sort. I dont think the needle valves can really break so long as you dont try to use it as a shut off valve and actually damage the needle.
|02-17-2016 07:29 PM|
So I have a Parker H3 valve (with the nice graded handle) and it has been playing up. I'm wondering whether someone with some experience with these may be able to help.
It doesn't seem to keep its seeing and sometimes will get "blocked" and won't let gas through at all. It also rattles occasionally.
So the settings bit is that it used to have the ideal flow on the handle measurement of 55. Now it requires a setting of 75 to get the same sort of bubble count.
With the blockage, when my solenoid kicks on someone's no bubbles get through the valve and it requires a micro adjust, like a turn of 2 or 3 measurement units, to get it to flow again.
And sometimes it rattles (sort of like a clicking noise) too. When it does this it often stops and starts letting bubbles through and only stops talking if I do a micro adjust as above.
I thought something might have been blocking the needle, that I could repair, so I opened it up and the internal mechanism is not what I was expecting, like a little plunger drum. I didn't touch it at all apart from shaking and blowing on it to see if anything would fall out.
Can anyone give me any advice on what to try? Because it is fluctuating so much it isn't delivering reliable CO2 to my tank and I'm having issues with algae. One day it'll be fine, the next it won't work at all.
Pressure is set to 35psi on my regulator and it's going to a ceramic diffuser before pulling through a jebo UV filter which sort of acts like a reactor. Thanks.
|02-14-2016 08:30 PM|
Originally Posted by dogwood View Post
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|02-03-2016 06:04 PM|
Does tank size make any difference in determining selection of a metering valve for a CO2 system. If so, on what basis would you make a differentiation for suitability. I am setting up a 125 gallon tank. Bettatail's list of metering valves here is a great resource.
|07-22-2015 06:52 PM|
Sorry to resurrect this from the depths...
Just getting back into planted tanks after a long hiatus and I want to upgrade my cheap-o Clippard valve. Fleabay seems to be coming up short for metering valves that don't cost a fortune. Is anyone selling these valves on the forum I can contact? Looking for a nice quality Parker or something similar.
|04-26-2015 03:43 PM|
|Hilde||I bought a Swagelok B-1VS4. Anybody using it? Pros, Cons?|
|04-23-2015 07:10 PM|
Originally Posted by Hilde View Post
|04-23-2015 06:06 PM|
|Mathman||I've got plenty of white cords. Went with black and white in case I ever need to deferentiate|
|04-23-2015 05:27 PM|
Originally Posted by Mathman View Post
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