|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-05-2011 05:45 PM|
|lauraleellbp||I believe it depends on the exact species of parasite in question, but I routinely re-worm all my tanks once a year.|
|05-05-2011 05:25 PM|
So a few questions on the life cycle of cestodes and nematodes: Do they have to have an intermediate host to reproduce and live on, or are there some cases where the juveniles are free swimming until they either infect a fish or die?
Say you've got a fish in the tank, and you have no clue what kind of worms may be in there. If you treat it with medicated food, will it get reinfected from other juveniles worms/eggs in the water, or only if it eats i.e. an infected snail?
|03-29-2011 04:59 AM|
|wendyjo||I use Jungle Parasite Clear and also try using a anti parasite food, but most of the fish spit it out unless they are super hungry. I only do this in quarantine with live bearers tho.|
|03-28-2011 04:06 PM|
|DarkCobra||Angels Plus medicated deworming food (Fenbendazole). Followed by Levamisole, to specifically address any possibility of Callamanus worms. I keep the Levamisole in the fridge to extend its life, and use a small 5G tank for quarantine so I don't have to use much medication.|
|03-28-2011 03:49 PM|
|defiesexistence||So what do all of you do for a standard deworming in quarantine?|
|03-20-2011 01:00 AM|
You'd get your answers faster if you started a new thread.
|03-20-2011 12:20 AM|
This thread is about deworming. If you have external parasites, please start another thread.
|03-18-2011 11:52 PM|
|jcardona1||Vodka works great for dissolving Flubendazole. It's what I use. On discus forums they recommend a 72hr treatment before flushing.|
|03-18-2011 02:13 PM|
Off his site;
Flubendazole 10 % powder
Best for eliminating Hydra. Treats protozoa wasting disease, serious treatment for Velvet, enternal and external parasites, 1/4 teaspoon of 10 % powder treats about 20 gallons of water for most parasitic Protozoa. Eliminate Carbon filtration during treatment. Change most of the water after 10 days. Will not harm plants, Prolonged use will kill many snails.
My plant routine stays the same
Edit! Edit: his directions have changed somewhat
Below are the 5% instructions. Mentions 3 days Hex, Ick, Velvet and 5-7 days with a WC at 3 days. (might need to send him an email)
|03-18-2011 01:30 PM|
Originally Posted by wkndracer View Post
Mix with vodka sounds the way to go. Maybe I'll have to take to drink so I'll have some to mix it with. Can't wait to see the look on my hubby's face when I say - honey could you go get me some vodka?
Next question. Do I stop everything, as in co2, ferts, and whatever else while in use? Do I leave the filter on, or turn it off? It's all in the details!
|03-18-2011 01:12 AM|
What I'm now using for entry quarantine
Replies from Charles Harris via email;
Flubendazole is indicated for Protozoa.
Levamisole is indicated for Nematodes.
Although Flubendazole is a broader treatment medication, it takes longer to work and is more messy to work with than Levamisole which is much more soluble. Flubendazole will kill snails effectively. As far as the rest of the life forms it remains unknown but I have not had a problem with a bacteria kill. On the other hand a lot of dead snails presents a problem with a bacteria bloom.
Levamisole won't touch Protozoa or bacteria making it good for the tank Nitrogen cycle, etc.
5 grams of Levamisole treats 100 gallons and we could have saved all those fish last year with just a few grams of the stuff if I were more visible to people in need.
With the volume of water you have and the fact that Nematodes are the most likely to sneak up on you, I would recommend 6 - 5 gram packs of Levamisole and 50 grams of Flubendazole 10%.
That information came to me September 2010.
Since then Flubendazole, Metronidazole and Levamisole are all used as part of my entry quarantine program along with the time to complete all the treatments. (30-45days) No quick trips to the LFS and plop and drop here anymore.
Flubendazole is a two course treatment. Flush the system (full volume WC and tank cleaning), dose, flush the tank with another large water change, and a second treatment followed by another big water change.
Using the 10% Charles sells and I have tried several mixing methods.
Mixing Flu can be a challenge The best method so far (Hee Hee,, hick up) came to me on TAFF II. A member uses near boiling water for premixing the powder. Another member posted using a splash of vodka added to the dry powder (happy fish). Then adding it to the tank. Mixing for my 20L planted quarantine I tried a combination of both. When I added .5ml of vodka to the 1gram of powder in my scale glass it dissolved instantly. Before I've always had some trouble mixing the meds into the tanks. The powder seemed to want to float a good bit. Even mixed in with 2 cups of scalding water it filmed for several days but not as bad.
Mixed with vodka then hot water there was no issue with it mixing at all. It dissolved into the water column in an instant once cooled.
|03-17-2011 08:46 PM|
Fenbendazole isn't water soluble (or at least easily soluble)... That's why it's better as a food additive.
Levamisol works great but a bit hard to find since they've been taken off the market. What you can find is stock. I don't think levamisol kills the nematode immediately but rather paralyzes the worms. It would detach from the fish and starve.
When treating for worms (callamanus), it's best to treat twice. Once initially and another a week later to catch all stages of the worm cycle.
|03-17-2011 08:20 PM|
Originally Posted by jcardona1 View Post
You'd be wrong. But you'd think....
|03-17-2011 08:10 PM|
I can no longer find reference on the inkmkr.com website to Flubendazole being recommended for Callamanus, and they now recommend a very large dose of Levamisole, 5g/100G. There are older versions of their instructions floating around on other websites.
I do know from experience that Angels Plus Deworming Food (Fenbendazole) will not cure Callamanus. Might still be effective against other parasites.
Callamanus are freakin' evil. Still trying to eliminate them 100%. I plan on treating all new fish for them regardless of symptoms.
|03-17-2011 08:01 PM|
|jcardona1||A lot of discus folks use Flubendazole because it's easy to use and can nuke any bad worms. Plus, if the fish is already sick or stressed, chances are he isn't eating, which makes Fenbendazole worthless. The next batch of wild discus I buy will be treated with flubendazole before going into the main tank. They recommend using food medicated with Fenbendazole 2-3x a year as a preventative.|
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