|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|02-15-2014 10:01 AM|
|ammar152||i live in Tanzania i can not afford the high end lighting for my 20 g tank i have put a t8 fixture on my tank with a normal house hold tube-light made by Philips 14 w how many k value is that if im not mistaken can some one advise me how to go about proper lighting for that tank as for i too have a 70 gal tank well planted but im using direct lighting its a wild tank which is out side having a great plant life i want my 20 gal tank work perfect as a master tank in the living room please advise|
|02-04-2012 09:02 PM|
Originally Posted by mobile View Post
If the socket is already connected by a jumper, you have to cut that.
Here is the diagram, from one of the original articles, that helped me figure out how to wire things.
One note. Though I did experiment with ODNO in the past, and it works, I've come to prefer two T5NO lamps over my tanks.
|02-04-2012 08:35 PM|
Just wondering, when you say there is an increase, does that mean an increase in micromoles/inch per second?
Reason I ask is this is one option for my 55g tank, and considering how I live in a remote place, would be much easier then ordering t5ho fixtures and bulbs, especially because I don't want to go overboard with the lighting.
|01-31-2012 08:43 PM|
Originally Posted by firstname.lastname@example.org View Post
|01-31-2012 08:31 PM|
Originally Posted by mobile View Post
Many years ago, when power compact lamps were newish, several marine tank supply companies sold fixtures using standard four tube 32 ~40 watt ballasts wired to one PLL socket. Those were considered and sold as 65 watt ballasts. I've opened up a couple to install new waterproof end cap & cord assemblies.
I used some running 55 watt GE 9325 lamps on freshwater tanks. I noticed no difference between them and standard off the shelf 65 watt ballasts running the same lamps. Sorry, but I didn't even know what PAR was then so I've no data.
|01-31-2012 08:11 PM|
|mobile||Sorry for resurrecting a really old post, but I have a question about overdriving PL (2G11) lamps. For starters, has anyone tried to overdrive this lamp type? Secondly, here is the ballast I have: http://tinyurl.com/7h5jeht, but I can't quite figure out how to connect the two outputs to a single lamp. Any help would be much appreciated.|
|05-22-2005 04:05 AM|
I've got plenty of experience with the WH5, but haven't worked with the 7 or 8 with ODNO. Generally, one WH7 lead = two WH5 leads. So each WH7 lead would power a 55w PC or overdrive a F32T8 tube about 2x.
One WH7 and four 6500k T8's would be a great setup.
|04-19-2005 02:51 AM|
I'm wondering what would be best for my 100gal as far as most light for the buck. I'm considering the WH7 or WH8 ballast and ODNO 6500kT8s. What I really want to know is what's the best configuration.
The WH7&8 both output 220watts, but the WH7 has four power leads and the WH8 has 6 power leads. I'm thinking I could use 3bulbs and have 2wires per tube w/ the WH8 rather than going w/ 2 tubes (2wires per tube) or 4 tubes (sinlge lead per tube) w/ the WH7. Just want to know what you pros recommend Thanks!
|03-23-2005 12:09 AM|
I have those ballast 2 of them each on one 48inch t8 at 4x and they work fine are they 2n,3n, or 4n.
|03-20-2005 10:04 PM|
Has anyone tried to overdrive one of those round fluorescent lights? I mean the ones bent into a circle shape like my grandma used to have in the kitchen way back in 19XX....? :-)
I saw a couple of other people mention in this thread that they have 15 XH tanks. I have one too; it's one of those odball sizes: 12x12x24h. The only fluorescent lights that would fit are those 1/2" thin ones like are used in those battery-powered camping lanterns. I was thinking that one of those round fluorescent lights would work really great.
They come in 9" and 12" diameters I think, and they are about 1" in diameter, which is the same as a T8. Since the cicumference of a circle is Pi times the diameter, that makes the 9" one 28 inches long, and the 12" one 36" long - putting both of them well into the range of "safe to overdrive" if I am understanding what I have read here in this thread.
Let me know what you all think. If I don't get a reply, I'll have to go get some bulbs and some saftey glasses and see if I can't blow something up.
|03-19-2005 03:07 PM|
|lousybreed||Has anyone tried to use a new T-5 HO e-ballast on T-8's. Each channel pumps out 54W. The ballasts only have 2 channels. If you just wired 1x that would still be more juice than wiring a regular ballast 2x|
|03-19-2005 03:02 AM|
|lousybreed||ok i went out and bought a 4F32T8 GE-432-max-n-ip e ballast from home depot and wired up for 2x and the bulbs were super dim!!!!!!!! is this one of the e-ballasts that dont work????? this ballast can also drive 4 or F32, F25, F17's. i am going to find an advance ballast to solve this!! it is like it sensed the improper wiring and then when in safety mode. please help. i double checked all connections and everything and found nothing!!!!!!!|
|03-17-2005 04:33 PM|
You probably won't notice much of a difference switching to the Workhorse. I usually recommend them to people anyway for their added flexibility and slightly higher power factor. All at pretty much the same price.
Glad it's looking good, though!
|03-16-2005 04:10 AM|
|lumpyfunk||I used the advanced ballast from HD and wow!! I keep my tank downstaris and the first couple of days kept wondering how the sun was shining at that part of the room (when you look down the stairs) they are plenty bright! Maybe I will try the workhorse next, but the HD ballasts were easy to get and about the same price|
|03-15-2005 03:03 AM|
|ridns||The Workhorse is much lighter though !|
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