|02-05-2011 12:57 AM|
IME, the best place to take a car is a reputable (that is, honest, experienced, efficient, and reasonably priced) mechanic. Unfortunately, most people don't know one of those. The next best bet is to take it to the dealership. It will be overpriced, but *probably* honest, and they darn well know what they're doing, since they specialize in your make, and almost definitely have seen your particular issue (whatever it is) over and over again. They also tend to employ more people, and, if your issue is a stumper, more people brainstorming on a problem are more likely to quickly come to a solution.
*edit* And if you need a particular part, they have it, or know where to get it very quickly.
|02-05-2011 12:44 AM|
The loud noise/hum is a wheel bearing that is bad.
One can be changed in anyone's driveway with the right tools.
|02-04-2011 10:08 PM|
|HypnoticAquatic||good to hear, also remember to have someone retighten your lugs after 50miles or so when ever you rotate of take off a wheel! no need to have a tire come loose or off it really gets pricey then makes a neat spark show though.|
|02-04-2011 09:33 PM|
Okay well I had Subaru check it out and it took them maybe 45 minutes to figure out it was the Front Right Wheel Bearing. I knew it had to do with the Front Right, just not sure what. He said if I had driven on it for a couple more miles it would have broken apart. Well anyways, it cost $410!! Wouch. At first my dad didn't want them to do it since he thought it was overpriced, so he sent me to some other places, but it would've cost over $550-600 at the other places.
But now it is nice and quiet!!
|02-02-2011 07:39 PM|
|neumahrs||On the bright side, subaru boxer engines are built like a tank and can take a beating and still work. However definitely let a reputable mechanic take a look.|
|02-02-2011 02:50 AM|
Yea I have stop driving it this week
If I start the car up and do that, the problem is.... this problem only happens when I speed up to and over 35MPH.
|02-02-2011 01:53 AM|
Subaru are notorious for headgasket problem. In your case this isn't it but I would advise taking it to a Subaru specialize shop that isn't a Subaru dealership. This is to bring down the cost if any repair are made.
Or drive it to me and I"ll test drive and have it lifted up in the air and I'll check all the problems and let you know.
It's difficult to diagnose when it's not seen in person.
5 days ago, I've just did a headgasket on a Subaru.. wasn't a Legacy.. but it sucks to do repairs on one.
Star the car up, leave it in park, open your hood and if the noise is coming from the engine.. you have a rod knock.
If it's idles fine, and the noise is present when the car is moving only.. it has to do your transmission, brakes systems and AWD drivegears/shalf.
|02-01-2011 05:08 AM|
|redman88||check for damage to the plastic air dampeners under the front bumper, and in the wheel wells, my wife's car was make a noise like that, and it was just some broken plastic under and behind the front bumper.|
|02-01-2011 04:25 AM|
IME worn out CV joints usually make a clicking sound. If it's wom,wom,wom, that sounds less like a CV joint to me. Have the mechanic check it anyway though. The boots rip very often, then you loose grease, or get dirt in the grease and the joint wears quickly then starts slipping and binding, making the clicking or popping noise.
To check a wheel bearing, the jack just has to get the tire to clear the ground. The sound you're describing now sounds more like tire wear/deformity, alignment, or bearing issue. Hard to say since I can't actually hear it, or feel the car shake. Pulling to one side when you stop is usually a hung caliper from my experience, but you usually can't hear or feel that unless you apply the brake. Like the previous poster said, a low tire can make the car pull to one side.
Call Car Talk, maybe we'll get to hear you on the radio.
|02-01-2011 12:18 AM|
That's how my first car was murdered. By my sister, when I was out of town. It went from a $6 repair (stuck thermostat) to a $3000 repair (new engine), which was more than my car was worth ('99 Ford Escort ZX2).
|01-31-2011 11:41 PM|
|elpezpr||As I have learned the hard way when a car is not functioning properly every mile you drive it turns into more cash for the repair. Something that might cost you $250 to fix could and will turn into a $500+ repair. My recommendation is to stop driving the car now.|
|01-31-2011 11:03 PM|
I had all four brakes plus some sort of belt changed late 2009 or early 2010 due to the BRAKE light lighting up when I was driving one very snowy day. But ever since they changed it, I always thought my wheels/brakes were a little..... off, to me at least.
|01-31-2011 10:22 PM|
|mattycakesclark||Call Car Talk. They are great help lol|
|01-31-2011 04:08 PM|
Coming from a subaru owner, I'd first check tires (tread, balance, alignment), then go to brakes (rotors, pads). Then check the wheel bearing. The mechanic only has to remove the hub and axle (very easily done...took mine off in about 15 minutes). The CV joints can be checked at that point as well.
You said your parent replaced the tires and rotated them at some point. Did they get all 4? These cars require buying all 4 at the same time. I know for my subaru I have to have less than 3/32" difference in tread from tire to tire otherwise it wears down on the 3 (yes three) differentials.
Also keep in mind that these cars are naturally louder.
And, as Kwangtzu said, there are a lot of forums out there strictly for your car. Look up "www.nasioc.com". That is a very common one that has a lot of good information on it.
|01-31-2011 04:03 PM|
We bought a 2002 AWD Volvo station wagon for 7k and it's a trooper.
Eden, most auto repair shops will give a free estimate unless there are some extraordinary circumstances. Dealers really can be expensive so a local or alternative shop is probably a good idea.
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