|10-10-2014 03:41 PM|
Considering the zombie nature of this thread, I thought I'd add to it instead of make a new one...
Over the last 7 months of my heavily planted tank, the only time small amount of BBA have showed is when I have let the open top water evaporate to much , and therefore had to add alot of water for top off... I am following the Tom Barr non co2 method so top off only, which is currently RO water...
So from my experience thus far, it seems to be a fluctuating co2 problem... every time I add more water the stable co2 levels fluctuate, and if I add to much at one time the balance is tipped...
Until I added a powerhead my main algae was staghorn and oedogonium fuzz on leaf edges, but the increased floe and more amano shrimp cleared that up
Of course I had a recent large BBA attack on my driftwood which coincided with replacing my cfl bulb after 6 months... As of yesterday half of it is gone, all munched away by my single red ramshorn snail... at least I witnessed him eating it and the next day it was gone... Either that or my 12 amano shrimp decided it tasted good...
BBA is a helluva thing...
|12-26-2013 05:42 AM|
|Planted-tnk-guy||I run my c02 as high as i can without killing my most sensitive fish. Many pelco and fish from fast running water will be affected at high co2 first since they need higher oxygen levels when i see a ribber lip pelco on his back panting for air i turnmy bubbler on for 1 min and turn my c02 back just a notch and wait an hour. My drop checker is always bright yellow since you cannot measure c02 at home realistically. Once my c02 is good i turn it off one hour after lights out and three hours before lights on so the level is at a constant during daylight hours. All my animals crayfish, shrimp badis, snails and plants are happy and free of bba. I only do this when i am going to be home all day so i have a good 12 hrs to tinker with the c02 to get it right. You dont need to worry to much it takes a long time for a fish to die from C02 so as long as you watch and be prepared to pump air in if needed your fish will be ok. And if you have expensive plants such as anubis, moss, java, i do a zip lock bag terrarium no water only enough humidity to keep the plant alive and slowly reduce the humidity over the next few weeks so the plant can dry out between waterings . I open the bag daily to let in more cO2 and wash as much bba off as you can and even a dilute amount of hydrogen peroxide on a qtip works in the back 10 min then rinse off works best on hard leaves.|
|12-22-2013 06:35 PM|
I won the battle with BBA after I accidentally killed my fish with a too-strong H2O2 treatment. In my case, there was a direct correlation between fish waste and BBA.
My 40G breeder was heavily planted, with adequate filtration, pressurized CO2 and two UV sterilizers. Water was always crystal clear. During and after cycling I dealt with diatoms; some green algae on rocks and the edges of some plants; and minor green dust on the glass due to direct sunlight exposure. Adding 15 amano shrimp helped control that. Later I added fish: A dwarf puffer to control the snail population; 6 rummy nose tetras; 5 cardinals; and 5 gold tetras. About three months later, BBA and blue-green algae appeared, and the green dust became heavier.
I used peroxide and Flourish Excel to combat it, but it always returned within a week. About 7 weeks ago I increased the peroxide dosage, which unfortunately killed all the fish except the puffer; and killed 10 of the 15 shrimp. The plants fared no better: All melted except the Hydrocotyle 'Japan” (which is tough as nails); about 30% of the glossostigma survived; the hygrophilia corymbosa was unaffected; and Staurogyne Repens seemed to actually grow stronger.
I let the tank sit untouched for a month to recover. During that time, the green dust/green water returned -- but the BBA did not. Not a single hair returned.
I did a 50% water change, vacuuming mulm and detritus from below the substrate. In the next week, green dust appeared again but at about half its previous growth level. Another water change a week after that, again vacuuming sediment from under the substrate, and subsequent green dust was at about 10% of its previous level. Repeated the water change/vacuuming yesterday and fully expect the reduction to continue.
The attached pic was taken a short time before the BBA outbreaks (starting on the leaves of the hygrophilia corymbosa). I will post some “after” pics after I finish minor re-scaping and pruning damaged/dead plants.
Note: Since the peroxide catastrophe two months ago I have added nothing to the tank except Flourish. The shrimp are living on algae and I assume the puffer is finding survivor snails since he is fat and happy. With no additional fish producing waste (and me not adding fish food), I am hoping I can maintain this balanced state indefinitely.
So, even with good filtration, two UV sterilizers, over-abundant plants and a (seemingly) moderate fish load, the algae won. To defeat algae, the secret appears to be to significantly reduce the animal bio-load.
|12-21-2013 04:56 PM|
|12-21-2013 04:36 PM|
Now tap water ph is soft with ph 7.6. BBA is attaching my ferns. Still struggling with it. Next step is to take ferns out and dip them in diluted seachem excel.
I have always been told low Co2 is the culprit. Mr Hyde has good Co2 which proves my theory that is an imbalance of some sort.
|02-01-2013 05:27 AM|
|TetraFan||I had a problem with BBA only once. I traded my CAE in for two SAE and I have never had it since...|
|02-01-2013 01:46 AM|
|02-01-2013 01:20 AM|
|plantedtankfan||Will sdding some SAE help with the bbs problem?|
|01-26-2013 12:52 PM|
|crossbred900||My 75 gallon oscar tank was infested with bba a few months ago when I decided to try a couple plants in his tank. Now the plants are gone and I can't get rid of the algae. I read that overdosing Flourish Excel can get rid of it, but how much can I dose without hurting my large oscar? The initial dose I used last night was for 90 gallons. Now it says add 1 cap a day. How much more than that should I use?|
|12-13-2012 12:24 PM|
|etgregoire||I did have high flow in my tank so I took out my power had circulating water. It seems to be growing less rapidly now but I also have a better co2 reg that gives more consistent output. So I'm not sure which that was. I might try adding it back|
|12-13-2012 12:03 PM|
|OVT||I wish I could find Cause -> Effect in this thread (or any other). The search continues....|
|12-12-2012 09:47 PM|
|Sethjohnson30||I think this thread should be a sticky.can we do that mods?|
|12-12-2012 09:35 PM|
|Sethjohnson30||How's your flow? If you don't have even distribution of nutrients and co2 some times algae will grow heavier in slower moving water because the nutrients and co2 are not able to get to that area|
|12-12-2012 09:32 PM|
Every time I dose flourish iron(or comprehensive) I end up with bba butif I dose csm+b I do not get bba.
Lastnight I looked through a lot of threads. As I always do when I have a question. It became apparent to me that people dosing flourish iron seamed to have a lot worse problems with bba.
I read a lot last night, like 50 threads.
I haven't done any true experiments to prove my findings, but I'm satisfied.
|12-12-2012 06:54 PM|
Wow this is an epic thread, I found it on google... and as it turns out it was posted on just today.
Seth - What was the connection between Seachem Iron and BBA that you found?
I have a slight amont of BBA everywhere and it's driving me crazy. It doesn't grow in thick tufts or patches like most photos I see, but very slowly small amounts on the edges of leaves. I prune a lot of affected leaves. I have also been spot dosing excel. I have pulled plants out and soaked in H2O2 and even soaked the sword leaf tips in cups of h2o2 when the water was low during water change.
I'm thinking of upping my fert dosing... I have might lights cut back to 6 hrs, and I don't know my exact amt of co2 but i know its pretty high....
Just curious about your Iron / BBA statement! Thanks
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