|05-01-2015 07:37 PM|
That's fine...They should be easy to replace. Besides, when I put a terminal block on there, I would have needed to remove the LCD anyway to get to it.
|05-01-2015 02:47 PM|
|mistergreen||I just cut off the tips and was able to pull off the LCD. The main part of the standoff is still there.|
|05-01-2015 02:42 PM|
Yeah, good idea, silicone the connection...That would be much more attractive. And, if the shrink wrap buckles over time, or whatever, you just replace it.
|05-01-2015 02:37 PM|
|mistergreen||Yeah, I'm going to cut the standoff off. You can replace it. I'll fill the inside with silicone before I shrink wrap so the there won't be any shorts from wire contacts.|
|05-01-2015 02:29 PM|
Worse case scenario, if you had to cut them off, I assume that 02Surplus can probably get some more, or point me in the right direction where I can acquire some more to re-mount the LCD.
You know, they make a black sealer we use for sealing wiring connections that have to be buried under ground. The stuff is called liquid tape, and that's the cheapest stuff. They also make even better formulations, but I've forgotten the name of them. I might apply some of that to the shrink wrap where it meets the cable, and where the shrink wrap contacts the filter material, ever so daintily of course. That stuff works very well, all-be-it ugly as sin. It's cheap, but good. I know of connections that have been buried in the ground for twenty years and are still dry as a bone. As long as I don't get it where it will obstruct the light to the photo diode, it might be a good precaution before I plunge it under the surface of the water.
I dawns on me that perhaps I could mask the filter material prior to applying the shrink wrap, then spray the end, peal the mask back, and SHAZAM, sealed.
|05-01-2015 01:34 PM|
ichristos is on this forum too somewhere.
No need to seal the shrink wrap. I'm curious too if this leaks or not.
I'll send you the paint bottle parts too.
I still can't get the standoff off.... Will try to look for a smaller plier to see if that works.
|05-01-2015 12:18 PM|
Yes, please go ahead and make me one of the shrink tube type sensors. I might as well test one of them out. I have several extra photodiodes if it happens to get wet. I would like to build a couple of the heat shrink sensors myself too. So, if you can sell me some of your extra parts so I can experiment, I would appreciate it. Or, please send me the links, and I can obtain the parts I'll need, whichever is easiest.
I think the advantage of the shrink tube type is that I could put a guide onto the cable that would bend the shrink tube sensor cable up at right angles, in a hooked configuration, which would be much easier to manuever inside the tank with respect to where the lighting is located, and allow it to be positioned under plants, into shaded areas, etc...
Does the heat shrink seem to seal tight just from the shrink process? If not, I was thinking that once I get the sensor, I might be able to dip it in something that dries quickly, and will seal it without changing the function of the diffuser. Do you think that by doing that I would be changing the ability of the diffuser to do it's job properly by dipping it a sealer (ie:distorting the light through the diffuser)?
Anybody have any suggestions as to what kind of liquid sealer would work well to seal any openings from the heat shrink by just dipping the end of the sensor, something that will also preserve the heat shrink so it doesn't change shape? Polyurethane (clear), acylic sealer (clear)?
I think that I will probably not expose the sensor you send to any experiments, and maintain it's original design, so that my experiements don't alter the calibration of the original. I can experiment with making new sensors on my own, so I can compare the performance of those subsequent sensors to your calibrated original version. So, just make the heat shrinked version as you envisioned it originally in the thread, and I'll further contemplate other sealing methods to be applied to subsequent sensors I'll make on my own.
I would still also like to build one of the paint bottle types, but I don't know if you still have the parts to send along with the shrink tube sensor. If so, I'll buy some of your paint bottle parts too, the bottle, the cable connector, the diffuser, filter material, etc...and/or whatever else I need to experiment with building several sensors. Or, if you can help me source some of that stuff I'll need in order to build one of the paint bottle types by providing me with links to those parts, then I can obtain that stuff on my own.
I checked out ichristos post via the link you sent, and that appears to be his one and only post there. If I were to contact him about his methodology, I'm not sure he checks the site, and would know to respond. It has been a while since he took an interest. But, I'll give it a try contacting him...
|05-01-2015 11:42 AM|
That first housing is made by ichristos. I don't see him around much. He posted here http://www.aquatictechtank.net/viewt...&start=20#p525
That shrink tube should work. It would simplify a lot of things. If you rather me make a shrink tube version for you, I can do it.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
|05-01-2015 03:54 AM|
Does anyone know the origin of this particular sensor housing, and whether there is a tutorial on how to build it, sourcing of the parts, etc...?
Also, did anyone ever pass final judgement on how this sensor housing design worked using heat shrink, especially with respect to sealing it to make it waterproof?
|04-30-2015 09:05 PM|
|rottison||man 50 pages to read to catch up on this|
|04-30-2015 03:27 AM|
I've use "reversible" snap ring pliers to pop the plastic standoffs loose. As long as you're careful not to let the pliers pry against any electronic components on the PcB, there shouldn't be any damage done. Just pop them loose one at a time... and you'll be fine.
|04-29-2015 09:36 PM|
On other electronic boards that have stand-offs that I've worked with, I usually use a very small needle nose pliers to pinch the split plastic pin together where it fits through the hole, then pop them out of their respective holes, usually only one corner at a time. They will usually pop back together without any issues, one hole at a time. The trick is lining everthing up with the pin connector first when they go back together. I haven't taken the LCD screen off of one of the boards yet, but that's how I had envisioned doing it were I going to use a connector block for the sensor wire.
O2Surplus supplied them with the stand-offs. He might have a suggestion how to remove them without damaging them.
If not, if you have an extra sensor for sale, and you wanted to go ahead and solder a sensor in place, I would be glad to buy one from you. I don't suppose you have any of those green little connector blocks in your stash, do you? That would be nice too...
Or, if you don't want to take it that far, you could solder the wire in place and splice it to your sensor temporarily by just twisting the leads together according to polarity in order to complete the calibration. Either way, the wire could probably be soldered in place without removing the LCD, and that would be fine with me too.
The other option is that I could obtain the green connector block, solder it in place on one of my other boards, then send you a board with the green connector block. You could return the both of the boards once you have the one with the green connector board calibrated. I want to make it as easy on you as possible. I appreciate the help!
|04-29-2015 09:13 PM|
|rottison||very nice looking might have to look in to buying an extra board from some one|
|04-29-2015 09:02 PM|
Other people have rebuilt the housing like this
|04-29-2015 08:51 PM|
|rottison||Mistergreen how well do the DIY light meters work specially under water? I haven't read this whole thing yet|
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