|Today 04:52 PM|
Thanks very much O2 and Mistergreen!
I'll send SeeedStudios the links for both the chip and the holder, O2, so they'll know what I'm referring to with respect to the one already with the bootloader, as well as the pin socket, and they can add them to the Bill of Materials to quote some of these to be soldered.
I don't know how much of the bill of materials they'll have in stock, but they have an abundance of parts available in that part of the world, so I assume the parts would be easy to obtain, if they're so inclined. Just depends if they want to do it with parts they don't already have.
With respect to the parts you have 02, I am going to send a couple of the PCBs your way, unsoldered, and we can use up some of your parts. Just as soon as I receive the boards, I'll PM you for a mailing address. That way, we can use up some of the spare parts you have in the process so you aren't stuck with them.
SeedStudios had already apparently finished my PCBs (unsoldered) before they were able to stop the process. I was kind of hoping they would delay the order so that some of my (5) pc. PCB order could be soldered. But, at least this way, if we know what the total cost of the boards will be, soldered, then other forum members can order some if they want to build a PAR meter using the PCBs instead of the Arduino. And, I haven't given up on the Arduino yet either. I am eager to learn...
|Today 03:53 PM|
Here's a link to the chip if you need it-http://www.digikey.com/product-searc...ader=search_go
They're also available for sale on FleaBay. Many with the bootloader already installed. I've got ten of them if you need some. I burned the optiboot bootloader to them myself, so they're ready for use.
The chip holder-http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...0-5-ND/4147600
|Today 03:26 PM|
|mistergreen||Look for 28 pin DIP socket. I'm not sure if seeed has it come with the chip.|
|Today 02:22 PM|
Anyone have the part number for a chip receptical to hold the ATMEGA328-PU DIL28-3 atmel chip, or does it customarily come with the chip?
I could add a chip receptical to the bill of materials, and fire it off to SeeedStudios, so the chip can be popped out for programming via the Arduino.
Otherwise, I assume the Chinese will solder the chip directly to the PCB. Might as well have them quote it with a receptical for the chip soldered in place, provided there will still be clearance above the chip/receptical for the LCD.
|Today 01:51 PM|
|Today 01:40 PM|
Hey, thanks O2,
I have submitted it to SeeedStudio...I suspect they are off duty in China right now, but they're very responsive, and I suspect I'll get a response by about 3am our time. So, lets see what they come back with. I suspect there are some things they won't have in their standard parts inventory, but if they have 90% of it, then it would make the complete board pretty easy to obtain, all be it probably in quantities of at least (10) pcs minimum...although, I haven't asked them if they'll do them in lesser quantities yet.
I wonder if they can build the sensor?
|Today 01:05 PM|
Exported from PAR MeterDIP .brd at 3/28/2015 12:02:37 PM
EAGLE Version 6.4.0 Copyright (c) 1988-2013 CadSoft
Part Value Package description
5VREG UA7805 TO263-3 Texas Instruments LDO regulator
C1 0.1uF C1206 ceramic capacitor
C2 0.1uF C1206 ceramic capacitor
C3 22pf C1206 ceramic capacitor
C4 22pf C1206 ceramic capacitor
C6 10uF C1206 ceramiccapacitor
D1 BAS15 DO34-7 through hole diode
FTDI1 1X06 .1"pin header
Q1 16MHz SM49 SMD crystal
R1 5kOhm TRIM_POT_SIDE potentiometer
R2 10k M1206 SMD chip resistor
R4 15K M1206 SMD chip resistor
U1 LCD-16X2 LCD-16X2 SparkFun-Displays
U2 ATMEGA328-PU DIL28-3 atmel(purchase w/ arduino bootloader installed)
VR1 10k TRIM_POT_SIDE potentiometer
Also needed: 9v battery wire harness
10mm plastic standoffs to mount 16x2 liquid crystal display.
.1"X 16 pin header
|Today 03:18 AM|
Ok, thank you very much! Is the Anode(+) and Cathode(-) marked on the Photodiode?
With regard to the PAR meter input, are you talking about the two holes above and to the left of where it says "5 Volts Out/Par Signal In", the holes that are to the left of the capacitor marking entitled "C3" "22pf"?
Also, is the FTDI1 on the board used for powering the device via the USB on your computer only, or are there programming requirements that make the FTDI1 necessary? If not, then you could operate the board off of a battery pack at 9Vdc. As little time as is necessary to take readings, it would lessen the cost of the project if the FTDI1 was omitted, if that's even practical.
The limitation may be that the parts must come from their list of in-house parts. So, it is possible that you could receive a complete board from them, or at least one with most items already soldered, and for a relatively nominal additional parts cost. But, anything they don't have in their standard parts offering would have to be purchased and soldered yourself.
Anybody have a Bill of Materials? I can have them quote it, and let everyone know how far they can go with the PAR Meter PCB manufactured complete. Then, you would only have to make the Photodiode part of the project. And, of course, you would have to learn to burn the bootloader to the chip, and find some way of calibrating the par meter.
They have my order for (5) PCBs, but are interested in quoting the project complete. I'm planning to send one of my PCBs to O2Surplus to be soldered up. However, I'll have five other PCBs to get rid of. I was wondering if anybody might be interested in having them manufacture a complete board, at least one that has as many parts already on it as are available from their parts offering. If so, I could have four of the boards manufactured with the parts already mounted and soldered. But, I don't have a bill of materials to submit to them. I could guess at it based on the basics that are printed on the board, but don't want to risk actually having them manufactured complete without being sure of the actual bill of materials. So, if someone has an actual bill of materials for the project, I'll be happy to submit it to them in order to get an accurate cost, and to know how many of the parts they can provide.
|Today 02:35 AM|
D1 is a regular diode.
The photodiode goes at 5v out (+) & in (-)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
|Yesterday 11:42 PM|
Does the photo diode connect at D1, and is there a particular polarity to be observed?
|03-29-2015 02:35 AM|
Thanks very much for the link. I have actually taken a several courses on programming, not with respect to the Arduino, but other computer oriented projects. One thing I learned is that actually writing the code is very different than just entering the code. I never really mastered what I learned with respect to writing or programming code because I didn't practice it on a daily basis. But, I have had some exposure to it. I just don't have proficiency at it. But, I do know enough about it that I realize that there are many things I don't know.
|03-28-2015 10:47 PM|
|03-28-2015 10:37 PM|
If you buy an Arduino, no need for burning the bootloader. You can start programming out of the box. It comes with a bootloader.
When you build something that you'd like to mass produce, you can buy those Atmega chips for $3 and build your applications. So as you can see, it's much cheaper than an Arduino.
|03-28-2015 10:09 PM|
Hey Quizcat, don't be to scared about the programming, if you've done anything with code like a simple website or whatever you'll catch on. Here's a link to the language reference, this page has helped me so many times. Lots of good examples if you need to know how to use something.
|03-28-2015 09:56 PM|
O2 gave me much easier option...send it to him
But, I am very interested in learning, so I'll be sure to review the link you sent. I brieflly reviewed it, and it looks relatively simple and concise. This is where my also messing with the Arduino to gain additional expertise will go hand in hand with burning the bootloader/sketch to the chip.
Thanks for the handholding...I am learning a lot.
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