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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-02-2003 04:41 AM
SNPiccolo5 If you can afford it, go with the 75 gallon, especially if it is cheaper! I have a 55 gallon and the lack of depth in the tank (like you said, they are too skinny) presents quite a dillema in the proccess of aquascaping. A tank that much wider has TONS more potential! Good luck!

-Tim
06-29-2003 12:45 PM
JamesHoftiezer HOB filters take up surface space on a tank, where you could have lights. (i.e - canisters filter take up no extra space in the tank so that space can be filled with lights)

Here are some pages I've made with info on CO2 tanks, DIY reactors and I am working on regulators now;
Pressurized CO2

IMHO you should not try to use DIY on more than a 40g tank. In the end it is too much of a hassle for the result. Tanks ar ean investment and as you get into bigger tanks it will cost money to get things going. You can put pressurized CO2 on a tank for $100-150. Most of the expense is one time. After the initial investment you can add as many tanks as you want for just a few $$ more.
06-09-2003 04:46 AM
d28 boy my last post sounded kinda funny after realizing i'm in the diy section! rock on!
06-09-2003 04:35 AM
d28 boy i know, i am the most impatient person in the world when it comes to hobbies such as plant/fish keeping...but many of us have traveled down the road of doing things the cheap way, only to end up with the equipment that the elders told us about years ago. i thought keeping a planted tank was esoteric knowledge for many years, only known by people with endless disposable incomes. but with 3-4 wpg of light, pressurized co2, a good canister, basic fertilizer, and regular water changes, my upkeep costs are minimal these days. i say take your time and start with good equipment.
06-09-2003 03:00 AM
Schala How will having a canister filter allow me to have more lights?
06-09-2003 01:19 AM
RXTrev If you go with HOB's just make sure your water is high enough you don't get surface agitation and throw out the carbon inserts and replace them with sponges and filter floss. Canisters...help you get some of the clutter out of the back of the tank. If you're poor, you'll probably be running shop lights so a canister will help you fit more bulbs more easily, but they tend to not flow as much as some of the stronger HOB's so I'd use a powerhead or two to make sure you don't get dead spots.
06-06-2003 10:38 PM
TekMate With the AquaClears you don't have to change the foam inserts I still have one in mine that is 5yrs old I rinse it in old tank water every couple of weeks to clean it. You won't want or need the carbon and other inserts in a planted tank. You could use the carbon if you have to medicate the tank or your tank starts to smell but if your tank starts to smell you have bigger issues.
05-07-2003 08:50 AM
STAT 007
Quote:
Originally Posted by ginnie5
I modifeied the lip so that there is not as much surface turbulence...
http://www.plantedtank.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1621
05-06-2003 09:05 PM
Rex Grigg If you have a kH of 4 and your pH was 5 then you would have had a tank full of dead fish. And I can't believe that DIY would give you a full two point drop in the pH. I don't think I could do that with my pressurized system. And I have very soft water. Out of the tap I have 0 kH and 0 gH. I normally run my tanks at a kH of around 3-4.
05-06-2003 08:40 PM
ginnie5 I modifeied the lip so that there is not as much surface turbulence. This tank has been up and running for a couple of months now with no problems. Except for the pressurized co2 and that is mostly my fault for not going with the corresct needle valves. That being said right now I am running diy yeast co2 on both my planted tanks. I have a 2 liter bottle running on the 38 and a 3liter on the 75. I was doubtful that the 3 liter would be enough so I hooked up a 2 liter to it also. Within hours my ph was at 5. I think it has a lot to do with your water. I have soft water to begin with and according to the chart everyone uses even after sitting over night I have like 12ppm of co2 in my water. Kh is 4 and ph overnight is 7. Course the bottle only lasts about a week and a half. Hopefully I will have my valves this week or next and can give the pressurized one more try.
05-06-2003 08:12 PM
Work In Progress
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rex
Carbon? You're running carbon filters on a planted tank?
Well actually any kind of inserts and etc, are gonna cost.......The other alternative for the aquaclears, is to use the media bags and customize. Also the rumored CO2 loss is another downside of HOBs.
I use carbon, but then again, I don't have any real plants in my 55g. It is mainly a fish only tank, 4 now.

On my 5g, I use a HOB w/sponge only material, for bio filtration. That's the tank w/plants.

Until I get better lighting and etc on the 55g, I am not going to even bother putting in plants.
I mainly haunt the board, so that I can learn as much as possible, before taking the plunge
05-06-2003 07:17 PM
Rex Grigg Carbon? You're running carbon filters on a planted tank? Most of us gave up on carbon a long time ago. That's one reason I don't like HOB filters, most of the cartridges have carbon in them.
05-06-2003 07:00 PM
Work In Progress Well let me tell you from experience..........HOBs are not the way to go on the bigger tanks.
Now I only have a 55g, but I do run 2 HOBs on it, since it carries such a large bioload.
In the long run, the costs of cartridges every few weeks to a month, is gonna break you.
If you run 2 AQUACLEAR 500's on a 75g, then you are talking about needing about $66.00 - $68.00 for the filters themselves and then approx $8.00 - $10.00 every time you go to change the carbon inserts.
Pretty quickly, you will surpass the initial costs of a canister filter.

You can go to Big Al's Online and get a Rena XP3 or a Fluval 404 and it should only run you about $95.00 and then you are only talking about needing to replace/ clean media every few months.

If I could do it all again, I would definitely go with a canister!!!!
05-06-2003 12:26 AM
Rex Grigg For a 75 gallon I would get a Rena XP-3. I have one on my 55 gallon and it works great. I'm not sure who filled your head with nonsense about cannister filters but they should be taken out and shot. I love my cannister filters. Takes about 10 minutes to clean one every 3-4 months. Media is cheap, no cartridges to buy! If you want surface movement then you can run the output of the cannister just under the surface and get it that way. Or you can add a small power-head. In my 55 gallon I have the XP-3, a Bio-Wheel Pro 30 an a 170 gph power-head. The cannister sits in the middle, the Bio-Wheel on one end and the power head on the other. Give me lots of water movement.

The second tube is not in the water. And if you drill small holes and cut the tubing at and angle and pull it though the holes it will not leak and will not require sealing.
05-06-2003 12:00 AM
Schala
Quote:
Originally Posted by GDominy
If you have money to burn, then Eheim is the way to go.
:cry: :cry: I dooooon't... All this is so expensive. I really can't afford to pay more than $100 for a filter.

I'd proably be getting 55 gallon except that the 75 is cheaper at the LFS. :?
Plus I hate how skinny 55 gallons are.

Are HOBs really that bad for CO2? I have an HOB on the 20 gallon and the plants are pearling. Either way, which fluval/other filter should I get. They stick the numbers after the name but don't say what tank sizes they are for.

... I'm such a newbie.
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