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  Topic Review (Newest First)
09-23-2010 06:04 AM
malaybiswas
Re: Building a 72L Aquarium stand - Completed - New pics (9/22)

Thanks EKLiu. That was the idea.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
09-23-2010 03:35 AM
EKLiu Nice job. The frosted glass doors look really nice. Much more interesting than the monolithic ADA style stands.
09-23-2010 12:21 AM
malaybiswas
Final Chapter. Or is it?

Since my last post a month back, fixing the glass doors took most of my time. Wanting to keep the doors inset of the frame, I did not consider the revolving area required at the hinged end while ordering the glass. As a result I had to cut of a good 1/4" X1/4" along the entire length of the vertical columns to create the space. Now at least I am happy that I went with 4X4s instead of 2X4. Would not feel comfortable reducing that much wood from the columns from 2X4s.

Anyways, got past the hurdle, connected all the doors and end panels and the light bars. All set to go. Waiting to get my tank and substrate next week to start off.

Oh, the bummer at the end (while all done and cleaning up) was a slight knock from one of the tools to the left glass door resulting in a pretty big crack. The door's still holding but it's an eye sore and would not like to leave it that way for long. But right now money goes on other stuff, so this is how I have to start I guess! The last picture shows how big the crack is.

Feedbacks welcome.

Glass panels. I got 1/4" acid etched glass


FInished stand with lights turned on


From the side. Notice the side panel has some space in the top. That is for running the filter pipes etc. I wanted a hole drilled, but the charges were so high, I settled for a shorter glass instead.

Oh, btw the last 2 pics were with no flash and just the overhead lights on in complete dark room. That's how bright the 20 LEDs are!

See the crack? Ouch!
08-30-2010 01:37 AM
malaybiswas Thank you guys. Yes I understand it is overbuilt
08-30-2010 12:56 AM
wkndracer
Quote:
Originally Posted by Green Leaf Aquariums View Post
You could hold up a Volkswagen with that stand no problem.
I think your estimate is a tad short or this stands capability. I would feel comfortable parking my Yukon XL on it for a suspension change out. Rock solid design (imo) no worries about safely supporting your tank.
08-29-2010 11:55 PM
Green Leaf Aquariums You could hold up a Volkswagen with that stand no problem.
08-29-2010 11:51 PM
malaybiswas
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan the Man View Post
Yeah, after building my stand using double ply 3/4" panels, I can only imagine what a stand made up of 4x4's weigh, but you can't put a price tag on peace of mind.
Actually the 4X4s are not that expensive. Each 14' lumber is about $15. I needed 4.

Edit: BTW, I followed your DIY stand construction. I liked that you selected a darker shade than the ADA stands.
08-29-2010 03:36 AM
Dan the Man Yeah, after building my stand using double ply 3/4" panels, I can only imagine what a stand made up of 4x4's weigh, but you can't put a price tag on peace of mind.
08-28-2010 08:05 PM
malaybiswas The frame is constructed. It's a tad little bit off level so I need to fix that shortly. As of now, the birch plywood covers are fixed. Next off some more sanding and staining.

I stained the bottom part of the frame before I fixed the plywood since it a damn! heavy and with the whole frame together, I can no way turn it upside down and back without breaking something in the room...or in my body

08-17-2010 05:20 AM
malaybiswas
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigboij View Post
Wow that is a brute stand, nice work
Thanks! and hope it stays that way for a very long time
08-17-2010 05:20 AM
malaybiswas
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwm5 View Post
so you put a water proof sealer on before you stain? I never heard of that. If you put the stain and a clear polyurethane coat over all the wood you should be fine, waxing all the joints/metal seems like overkill, you will unlikely ever have enough water exposure to the stand to need those extras.
I am no pro with wood working so you might be right, but yes, I am putting the sealer on the bare wood and the stain over it. Yes, the stain does not penetrate the grains but from my trial on the excess wood blocks the end effect is good. It just seemed logical to seal the bare wood instead of putting sealer over 3-4 coats of the stain that I plan to do to get the rich deep color I am looking for.

The waxing idea may be a overkill but actaully what I am doing is lining the joints with stainable and waterproof wood glue. The reason I wanted to keep the seams glued is so that accidental spills when dealing with 50+ gallons of water change has minimal chances of reaching the lag screws. If those rust or the wood at the joint deteriorate that would be a nightmare. May be I am just being paranoid but hey better safe than sorry!!
08-13-2010 03:53 AM
bigboij Wow that is a brute stand, nice work
08-13-2010 01:46 AM
jwm5 so you put a water proof sealer on before you stain? I never heard of that. If you put the stain and a clear polyurethane coat over all the wood you should be fine, waxing all the joints/metal seems like overkill, you will unlikely ever have enough water exposure to the stand to need those extras.
08-11-2010 09:24 PM
malaybiswas Time for some construction update

This is the front side of the panel. I am attaching the cross beams alternately on top and bottom so that they can stand on their own. The back panel will have similar construct. At this stage I will haul them to the living room and connect the cross beams so that I don't have to carry the stand all together. You can see the cross beam on the top is not properly aligned. I had to fix it after this.


From the front


I figured 2 lag screws per joint is sufficient. They are heft strong and collectively supposed to hold a weight of over 1500 lbs. My whole tank will probably be between 1000 to 1500 lbs so not as much per joint. Close ups of the counter sunk pilot holes before and after the screws are fixed.




With my limited workshop, this is my best way to align the cross beams so that the surface on the top and bottom are level. You'll notice on the beam on the right, half of it is in different shade. I put water proof sealant on all the sections that will get covered in the joints before I started attaching them so that the wood surfaces inside the joint are waterproof as well. Finally, I plan to wax around the joint line so that the exposed metals are prevented from accidental contact with water.



So
1. One more such frame to make
2. Wax all joints
3. Cover all holes with wood filler & sand
4. Attach the plywood platforms inside and on top of the frame
5. waterproof coating and staining
6. Attach glass doors and side panels
7. Light bar

Way more to go
08-11-2010 09:03 PM
malaybiswas I had a slight setback in the construction. The 4X4s are actually 3.5X3.5 so my cross beam calculation is 1" short at 10 to make up a 18" wide stand. I had to get another beam and cut it to 11" instead before I could start back again.
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