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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-29-2014 06:24 PM
brooksie321 Just finished it last night, forgive the crappy bottle caddy, I'm going to get a nice stainless steel deal..
09-29-2014 06:05 PM
Viper Tank itself has changed a ton since these pictures were taken.
09-27-2014 06:29 AM
AaronT Finally finished this one. I used a wipe on poly in satin finish and did 3 coats. The inside is a gloss white enamel and the doors have 170 Blum soft close hinges and magnetic tot locks to keep the little guy out.

Construction is 3/4" MDO, rabbeted, screwed, and glued. The header is doubled up for extra support. I did the veneering myself using raw figured cherry veneer and old school hammer veneering using hot hide glue. It's hard the tell in the picture, but the doors are bookmatched.

There are a ton of mistakes, but overall I'm pleased with how it turned out.

From the right side...


This pic is a good representation of the color.


The inaugural hardscape...
06-24-2014 07:40 PM
GraphicGr8s
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_ranger View Post
I cut the door out after I skinned it so taking it off wasn't happening, too many brads to removed. Wasn't thinking at the time to cut it off the stand. Kind of rushed the skinning before the rain moved in.
It's going to be painted now so grain doesn't matter, I decided I'm already way over budget and stain and poly is out, I've already got some good black paint from my other stand.
For any future cutting where you put it together then need to make the door another method is to mark it out then scribe, with a utility knife, around it. Two scribes the blade width apart will precut the top fibers and make for a cleaner cut. Another method would be to raise the blade up so it is just scoring the top veneer. Then come back and make the final cut. In all cases the blade really should be no deeper than the wood thickness plus an 1/8" to 1/4" more.
06-24-2014 06:13 AM
DanielAG My ADA copy I built with a friend...

There is now a foam pad between the tank and the stand to even out the imperfections in the plywood I used.





06-24-2014 12:59 AM
Bettatail
Quote:
Originally Posted by gus6464 View Post
How come you did a 90 hose bard to the black unit (UV?) vs going straight?
I took the last 3/4" ID straight hose barb fitting from the shelf in my local homedepot, and no more in stock, decided not to wait, so pick up the 3/4" ID hose barb elbow adapter instead.

not really care it is straight or 90 degree fittings/adapters, because I use 1" or 3/4" PVS pipe and adapters, much bigger diameter than the original 12mm to 16mm ID hose for the return pump.
06-23-2014 03:21 AM
chris_ranger
Quote:
Originally Posted by GraphicGr8s View Post
Actually you don't need to run the circ saw thru backwards. First off a good quality blade will minimize chipping. Second you cut from the BACK side to put the remaining chipping where it won't be seen.

What strikes me though is your grain runs the wrong way.
I cut the door out after I skinned it so taking it off wasn't happening, too many brads to removed. Wasn't thinking at the time to cut it off the stand. Kind of rushed the skinning before the rain moved in.
It's going to be painted now so grain doesn't matter, I decided I'm already way over budget and stain and poly is out, I've already got some good black paint from my other stand.
06-22-2014 07:45 PM
GraphicGr8s
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_ranger View Post
29 gallon stand to replace my over crowded 15 gallon column.i swear the stand weighs more than the tank will when full.
Door will be trimmed to hide the hack job my saw did to my oak plywood. only half way through did i realize use the saw backwards to prevent chipping.
hood will be in the same design with a flip up front panel.
will probably stain it onyx or paint it since the trim i like was only in pine. oak and pine stain too differently for nicer colors.
Actually you don't need to run the circ saw thru backwards. First off a good quality blade will minimize chipping. Second you cut from the BACK side to put the remaining chipping where it won't be seen.

What strikes me though is your grain runs the wrong way.
06-22-2014 04:18 PM
chris_ranger
29 gallon stand to replace my over crowded 15 gallon column.i swear the stand weighs more than the tank will when full.
Door will be trimmed to hide the hack job my saw did to my oak plywood. only half way through did i realize use the saw backwards to prevent chipping.
hood will be in the same design with a flip up front panel.
will probably stain it onyx or paint it since the trim i like was only in pine. oak and pine stain too differently for nicer colors.
06-19-2014 08:02 PM
GraphicGr8s
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tvadna View Post
You are correct in that they are supported by the nails. The framing nails used have a shear strength somewhere in the 200-300lb range.
Water weighs 8.3 lbs/gal and each rack will have 20 gallons for a total of about 166lbs per rack. The four support legs on each rack should evenly distribute the weight which gives us 41lbs/support leg. Each one was nailed 3 times. Assuming the weight is shared fairly evenly by the three nails on each support... it means that each nail is only supporting about 13lbs.

13lbs per nail is well within their shear strength and even further in my comfort level.

Most stands are built considerably less sturdy. Here is the 30 gallon stand next to the rack. It appears to be a particle board instead of solid lumber like I used. The particle board is 1/2 or 3/4" thick and similar to my construction in that it relys on the shear strength of 2 bolts/side and the vertical legs are not under the horizontal base. It has been holding strong for 10+ years.




You're correct in saying that it would safer if the vertical legs sat under the rack to support their weight directly but it would also be safer to wear a bullet proof vest and helmet 24/7. Some redundancies aren't necessary...
You're comparing a bolt to a nail. Apples and orangutans. You have nothing to prevent racking and you really can't discount the laws of physics vis a vis leverage. That bolt can't pull out and to an extent will prevent racking.

As for the comparison to the bullet proof vest we might really go with regarding every gun as loaded. It may not be necessary but it is surely prudent.
06-19-2014 08:00 PM
BuddhaBoy Sounds like you have everything under control

Just the doomsday prepper in me lol. Better safe than sorry... I can't imagine how id feel if I came home and found my tanks all smashed.
06-19-2014 07:57 PM
AGUILAR3
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy View Post
Both the upper and lower tank(s) will be supported entirely by nails or screws in shear, unless you used glue for all joints. Even then, it would be much safer if there were legs under the rectangular frames.


I would just replace the screws/nails with some 4" lag bolts. My 8' long 2x4 shelf is holding roughly 1000+ lbs worth of wheels with zero issues.
06-19-2014 06:53 PM
aquarist
Quote:
Originally Posted by BuddhaBoy View Post
I have to agree with hoppy..... That construction doesn't look sturdy enough for the kind of weight loads all that water and glass will put on it, especially over time.

What are those black brackets made of? ABS plastic?

At the very least I highly recommend adding a full center brace running top to bottom. All that weight will be pushing down on those slats, bowing them and eventually popping them away from the sides.

Good luck with it

And for the fellow with the black stand, I also agree that extra bracing of 2x4 rectangles is a really good idea.
The black brackets are ABS I believe, it is a shelf system and was pretty easy to put together. I deigned it similar to what I saw in big discus fish farms, they usually use much larger tanks then I am planning to use and looks like it is a simple 2x4 shelf system most of the time. I may add a center brace or I may not depending on what it looks like when I start adding weight to the top shelf, right now as you can tell in the photos the top shelf is empty but the bottom shelf holds the weight just fine. I am also going to anchor it to the wall, it'll be hard to tip it over as it sits now with all the weight on the bottom but better safe than sorry. I also took a good look at my 180 gallon aquarium stand that was bought from a store, it's made out of really thin wood and there's no center support, so not sure if I will even need one. Here is a picture of a fish farm's aquarium stand, the picture isn't the best but you can get the idea. If you google house of disus you will see a video that shows their aquarium racks better, seems like each tank is held up with four 2x4s around the edge of the aquarium and that's it. I am not saying my shelf is perfect but I am pretty sure with a few minor tweaks it will do exactly what I've designed it to do.

06-19-2014 04:35 PM
Tvadna
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy View Post
Both the upper and lower tank(s) will be supported entirely by nails or screws in shear, unless you used glue for all joints. Even then, it would be much safer if there were legs under the rectangular frames.
You are correct in that they are supported by the nails. The framing nails used have a shear strength somewhere in the 200-300lb range.
Water weighs 8.3 lbs/gal and each rack will have 20 gallons for a total of about 166lbs per rack. The four support legs on each rack should evenly distribute the weight which gives us 41lbs/support leg. Each one was nailed 3 times. Assuming the weight is shared fairly evenly by the three nails on each support... it means that each nail is only supporting about 13lbs.

13lbs per nail is well within their shear strength and even further in my comfort level.

Most stands are built considerably less sturdy. Here is the 30 gallon stand next to the rack. It appears to be a particle board instead of solid lumber like I used. The particle board is 1/2 or 3/4" thick and similar to my construction in that it relys on the shear strength of 2 bolts/side and the vertical legs are not under the horizontal base. It has been holding strong for 10+ years.




You're correct in saying that it would safer if the vertical legs sat under the rack to support their weight directly but it would also be safer to wear a bullet proof vest and helmet 24/7. Some redundancies aren't necessary...
06-19-2014 03:31 PM
plaakapong
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy View Post
Both the upper and lower tank(s) will be supported entirely by nails or screws in shear, unless you used glue for all joints. Even then, it would be much safer if there were legs under the rectangular frames.
This is something everyone should keep in mind when designing a stand.
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