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  Topic Review (Newest First)
09-05-2016 11:22 AM
lovingHDTV I did this last week as I have been fighting with algae for a few months. I made a lot of changes to my tank and it got out of whack. I was about ready to just start over.

All the green algae is gone. It took a few days as it would slowly cover my intake prefilter with a slimy goo. The BBA turned a bit grey, but I then noticed the snails and fish were eating it. It looks like whatever the treatment did to the BBA the fish are now eating it and it is almost completely gone as well.

I think I got my CO2 and lights aligned so hopefully it doesn't come back, but it is one more tool in my belt to fix things when they go badly wrong.

thanks,
david
08-31-2016 09:50 AM
elisagrace This is really a nice information for protection against algae. Earlier I tried H202, but it was not much successful. Thereafter as per your direction I used Excel and it helped me a lot in protection against algae.

But this formula is not fit in the case of cleaning of algae in big water storage tanks. Here it will be better to use small amount of chlorine, as it will not allow to the growth of algae bacteria in the water.
08-30-2016 03:19 AM
Jaye I just blacked out my 29 gallon now-quarantine/formerly main/soon to be shrimp tank for a week to control green hair algae that had taken hold in the hairgrass, whicih is basically the only plant in the tank at the moment. Uncovered the tank this evening and the algae is basically gone. Will need to do a big vac tomorrow as there's dead algae everywhere, but dead is the goal here, so that's NBD.
08-24-2016 01:13 PM
BrassFinger I gave this process a try over this past weekend on my fully planted, low tech 20H tank. I've been battling with first some hair or thread type algae, but that went away only to be replaced with BBA that has been stubborn to get rid of but fortunately fairly slow growing. I have been battling it by cutting and removing the heavily affected leaves, but that only serves to keep it in check, not eliminate it.

I run the standard dose of Excel even though it is a low-light tank (2 8" clamp lights sitting on the Versa-top with 9W 6500K CFL lamps). I'm guessing there are medium to high-ish light areas directly under the lights, but overall it's low. Substrate is PFS, and I use Flourish root tabs and Flourish liquid for micros. I have 5 spotted corys and a BN pleco in there. I tried spot dosing once with the Excel but ended up burning half the tail off one of the corys. Fortunately, he's just fine and it's growing back...whew!

Anyway, I pulled the filter media, added another HOB with no media and a small powerhead, dosed with 6 tbs. of peroxide and waited 15 min. Did the 50% change, and added the starter dose of Excel. Corys and pleco completely unfazed by the treatment.

The next day the water clouded up just a tiny bit, but ammonia and nitrite were both zero. It appears the BBA took a significant hit, turning reddish and grey/white color. I'm hoping it's dead but if I need to I'll tread it again with no hesitation since the fish did so well with it.

Chris
03-15-2016 02:56 AM
usgetata Three weeks after I re-setup my ADA 60H planted tank I got crazy GHA, GW and cloudy water. I kept changing water but thing were getting worse.

Last nights I decided to do the One-Two punch. While dosing H2o2 I added a eheim pump and directed the flow to blow directly on the GHA.
Like 10 minutes after I added 2 capful of Excel the Amano shrimps started swimming around trying to hide...
Did a 60% water change, call it a night and hope for the best.

Today When the light turned on the tank is much cleaner! The water is no longer greenish. About 70% of the GHA is gone and the rest looked weaken.

Counted my live stock. Amano shrimps, Ghost Shrimps, CRS, Chinese alage eaters and clown killifish babies are all alive!

I added a bunch of floater just to see if it can help further improve the situation and keep it clear.

Thank you for the one-two punch method. It worked for me.
03-09-2016 11:27 AM
Max [Update] Within a week all staghorn was gone passing from black through pinkish to completely white and eaten. I have lost a fish in the process but that was not purely as a result of the treatment. The fish has been previously stressed and the treatment was probably the last stroke. Overall, I call this treatment a success and will keep doing this whenever there is a necessity.

Hi, I want to reconfirm that it seems to work, I am only ~24 hours since I have performed the treatment but I have noticed that the algae turns reddish. I can reconfirm as well that the water becomes cloudy afterwards. Probably to the massive bacteria death or bloom. Not sure at the moment. I have added this thread to my subscription list. Let's see how it would turn.
02-09-2016 12:47 AM
max88 Did the one-two punches on Feb 06, 2016. Most algae have disappeared. The side effects caused a goldfish's death.
This is the list of steps done on a 56G tank:
1. Move all fish (6 goldfish and 1 Siamese Algae Eater), and 20% filter media, to another tank.
2. Move the remaining 80% filter media to a bucket with existing tank water.
3. Turned on Fluval 306 canister and maxijet 300 power head, plus a pump for added water flow.
4. Dump 300ml H2O2 into 56G tank (50G water).
5. Wait 30 minutes. Redirected water flow a few times.
6. In next 30 minutes, pump out 60% old water. Refill with tap water, add prime, turned on Fluval 306 + maxijet 300. Remove pump.
7. Add 25ml Excel.
8. Wait 15 minutes, put all filter media back, move all fish back to 56G tank.
There were a lot of small gas bubbles in the tank for the next few/ten hours.

24 hours later, all the brown algae disappeared, the plants look much greener. Sadly, a pearl scaled goldfish died. Ammonia reading was 0.5+ppm at that time. Nitrite (NO2) was 0ppm. The rise in ammonia reading was probably due to the combination of reduced bacteria in filter media, and the spike of organic matter (dead algae).

36 hours later, ammonia reading was 2.0+ppm, nitrite (NO2) was 0ppm. I immediately added 5x prime, move all fish to another tank, and did an 80% water change (and added 3x prime). Ammonia reading was 0.5ppm, nitrite (NO2) was 0ppm. The goldfish had to be moved back to the tank, because tiger/rosy/odessa barbs keep nipping on them in the other tank.

There is still some BBA around the canister filter pipes and water return, not sure if they are alive or dead. Will wait and see.

Conclusion: this method works, but beware of the side effects to fish or other live stocks.
01-28-2016 02:22 PM
Blacktetra All my vals are slowly going pale/translucent, but not all their leaves, so I'm praying they survive. The algae may not be gone, it's looking worse each day, but I'm not sure if it's going to kill it all off, but at least the vast majority is looking paler and is swaying more in the current each day. It's now been 3 days and I've concluded that using the full strength glut dose would have killed my algae for sure, but it may have also killed off my vals. I'm suspecting that with the root tabs in the soil, and the roots the vals have, they will spring back eventually, but I'll need to trim off their dying leaves soon or risk having them breakdown and contribute to algae coming back.
The val I seperated from the tank during the treatment looks the same as prior, so I'm fairly certain the treatment is what is killing the val leaves, not my use of 1.5X glut dose afterwards (I was previously only using 0.75 which I slowly increased for a month prior to reach 1X so the vals would adjust.)
I'm going to call this a partial success. And recommend to anyone with vals to be cautious. And definitely avoid doing this treatment with full glut dosage if your vals are brand new and have yet to establish a good root system.
01-26-2016 04:21 AM
Blacktetra Yes, but I can't imagine my vals doing well with that kind of glut concentration. If I don't see improvement then I'll know that it isn't enough to only dose the high amount for 30 minutes. Plus if the vals struggle they die, break down, release ammonia and nutrients and assist algae rather than fight it.
I still worry I just wasted 4 hours but hopefully with the high flow the glut had time to do some of the work needed.
01-25-2016 09:09 PM
ichy You really dont want to do too many water changes right off the bat without keeping the glut level at the high rate...that's the 2 of the 1-2 punch and to dilute the glut(hey that rhymes and I mean it!) is kind of cheating the process.
01-25-2016 07:54 PM
Blacktetra Trying this 1-2 punch out myself.
Removed my subwassertang, and one jungle val in case the others get nuked. I'm not sure what to do with the subwassertang. I think it has clado, and if so a blackout treatment won't do any good.

I also removed all my fish and most of my shrimp to help.

After doing so I even ended up doubling the H2O2 dose half way through (8 mins with suggested amount, 8 mins with additional dose).

After dosing the glut though I was nervous about the vals (I really enjoy them) so after waiting 20 minutes with high flow, just like with the H2O2 I did another massive water change, hopefully removing most of what remained of the H2O2, and bringing the glut concentration back down pretty close to a normal 1.5X the recommended dose on the bottle.

With all the water change I didn't want to shock the fish when I reintroduced, so I'm currently working to help match the old tank Nitrate and Gh params in the new water.

*crosses fingers*
We'll see.
I expect some shrimp death given the massive amount of H2O2 and the glut spike, and the nitrate drop and return (from ~50ppm to 0 then back to ~50 in an hour is not gentle I dont think).
I'm also going to be keeping really close tabs on ammonia the next two or three days, and feeding sparsely.
12-07-2015 01:43 PM
bpb Did one successful treatment several months ago, but life happened and I wasn't able to care for the tank as closely, missed several weeks of water changes and co2 ran out. Plant growth had become so dense it was virtually 12" of packed stems with no leaves for most the tanks footprint and the entire bottom 6" of the tank was a tangled mess of pure BBA and some kind of green cladophora type wirey hair algae.

This time around after manually removing as much as I could, I did the full 4 tbsp per 10 gallon like the original recommendation on peroxide. 3 days later no deaths, not even snails, and the algae is really disappearing. Much moreso than it did with the 2 tbsp per 10 gallons. I also let it circulate for a lot longer than 15 minutes. Went more like 30.
08-12-2015 10:24 AM
roadmaster If condition's that brought the various form's of algae are not corrected ,the one two punch,and other treatment's will only bring temporary result's.
Need to train ones effort's on what plant's need and don't need, and then you can spend less time treating algae and more time studying rates of growth with your plant's.
Need to figure out what you are doing that might be hampering growth of plant's and encouraging the algae.
If you can't /won't do this..then no one algae treatment or combination thereof is gonna bring an end to the algae.
You will just be trading fixes for one type of algae for another, and the algae is very likely to return in one form or another.
Need to combine algae treament's with making correction's needed to prevent it's return.
I learned this truth the hard way.
08-12-2015 06:22 AM
The Big Buddha I gave this a try on my 40B, 8 tablespoons. 15 mins with tons of flow, 60% WC, then 8 ml of metricide.
The BBA looked a little lighter in color, not grey, white or red though. On day three I lost 2 rasabora, one orange Von rio tetra.
Should I try the original dose of 4 tablespoons per 10g?
My peroxide is a new container as well.
07-23-2015 01:14 PM
ichy
Quote:
Originally Posted by biglos201 View Post
I'm strapping up my boots and diving in! Would this work for green dust algae?

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Not as much. It is tough to get the H202 inside to really disrupt cell life.
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