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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 12:33 AM
toaduck
Quote:
Originally Posted by Linwood View Post
Thanks, glad to know it isn't just me.

Yeah, but with $400+ invested in LED+'s, I think I'll write some more code first.

Frankly "off" is the hardest one. I've taken to programming M4 to be off (drive all the colors to off separately and save the setting). But even that is not 100% reliable, as once in a while they seem to "forget" the Mx button settings and have to be reprogrammed.

I think I may change the "off" to be a sequence of spaced out color-down steps over time. Like 2-3 times as many as really needed to make sure they work, and forget the M4 setting.

The "off" problem could be circumvented if manufacturers would learn from the programmable remote world -- provide a discrete code for "off" and "on" and not (just) "toggle".
I may need a tutorial for writing the code. My stuff for this project came in the mail today and will be constructing the unit tomorrow but have no idea about the coding/software part. Anyone know of anything that would help me understand the code writing part?
Yesterday 11:22 PM
Linwood
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnotherHobby View Post
I think it's the internal controller of the Sat + that misses stuff. I have 3 of them, and they all do it (sometimes fail to make an adjustment).

....
I have since switched to an E-Series that is smooth as butter with adjustments, never misses anything, and doesn't flicker when making adjustments.
Thanks, glad to know it isn't just me.

Yeah, but with $400+ invested in LED+'s, I think I'll write some more code first.

Frankly "off" is the hardest one. I've taken to programming M4 to be off (drive all the colors to off separately and save the setting). But even that is not 100% reliable, as once in a while they seem to "forget" the Mx button settings and have to be reprogrammed.

I think I may change the "off" to be a sequence of spaced out color-down steps over time. Like 2-3 times as many as really needed to make sure they work, and forget the M4 setting.

The "off" problem could be circumvented if manufacturers would learn from the programmable remote world -- provide a discrete code for "off" and "on" and not (just) "toggle".
Yesterday 06:28 PM
AnotherHobby
Quote:
Originally Posted by Linwood View Post
Are any of you controlling a log of LED+ with the same controller? Like 4?

I have 4 I'm doing with a Raspberry Pi (I thought it better for network control), and while the final setup for mounting the receivers is not done, I still find that it periodically "misses" one. Last night for example it changed from blue to off, and one of the four was still blue.

Not always the same one either.

I have the system sending the same signal twice with a half second between, to try to be a bit redundant. I could send it even more frequently of course, but first in the final mounting place I want to experiment with diffusers and see how that helps.

But just wondering if anyone else is struggling with synchronization of many LED+'s from the same controller?
I think it's the internal controller of the Sat + that misses stuff. I have 3 of them, and they all do it (sometimes fail to make an adjustment). They will do it alone, or when used together. They all also occasionally flicker every once and a while when making an adjustment. They never failed to switch modes (from M1 to M2 or whatever) and also never failed to turn off or on, but they didn't respond 100% to red, green, blue, or white adjustments up and down.

This is why if you are using the fading code (which I was doing), you need to hard reset at the end of each fade using the memory buttons, or else you will get drift. I don't think they were designed to be continually adjusted — I think they were designed to be set to what you want and left alone.

I have since switched to an E-Series that is smooth as butter with adjustments, never misses anything, and doesn't flicker when making adjustments.
Yesterday 03:16 PM
Linwood Are any of you controlling a log of LED+ with the same controller? Like 4?

I have 4 I'm doing with a Raspberry Pi (I thought it better for network control), and while the final setup for mounting the receivers is not done, I still find that it periodically "misses" one. Last night for example it changed from blue to off, and one of the four was still blue.

Not always the same one either.

I have the system sending the same signal twice with a half second between, to try to be a bit redundant. I could send it even more frequently of course, but first in the final mounting place I want to experiment with diffusers and see how that helps.

But just wondering if anyone else is struggling with synchronization of many LED+'s from the same controller?
Yesterday 03:02 AM
Dahammer Wow! I see that this project is still alive and well after all this time! My Arduino and Sat+ fixture is still going strong and hasn't missed a beat.
11-18-2014 06:21 PM
toaduck
Quote:
Originally Posted by kman View Post
It's an Arduino shield. They just stack right on top of the Arduino, and the "legs" on the bottom of the shield align perfectly with, and slide directly into, the headers on the Arduino itself.

Great find, AH! I wish I had known about this when I built mine!
Ah ok. I'm learning. Thanks guys.

Are you lurking brookster? Lol
11-18-2014 06:19 PM
kman
Quote:
Originally Posted by toaduck View Post
How do you attatch this to the arduino?
It's an Arduino shield. They just stack right on top of the Arduino, and the "legs" on the bottom of the shield align perfectly with, and slide directly into, the headers on the Arduino itself.

Great find, AH! I wish I had known about this when I built mine!
11-18-2014 06:11 PM
toaduck
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnotherHobby View Post
Here is a 5 minute photoshop job for you if you are a visual person, this should really help. I changed the "legs" of the resistor and LED to yellow and green instead of silver so they show up better in the pic.

The resistor is 150 ohms. The IR LED has a +/- side, so you just need to make sure the - side goes to the resistor and then to ground. The - side physically has a flat spot on that side of the LED, and a shorter leg. The resistor orientation does not matter.

You can just bend the legs to reach their spots. Only 3 solder joints, highlighted in red. It can't get much easier than this.


How do you attatch this to the arduino?
11-18-2014 03:08 PM
AnotherHobby
Quote:
Originally Posted by toaduck View Post
Thanks. I wish I understood this stuff more. I wouldn't know where to solder what. I'm good at following schematics.....my soldering skills are good but that's about it. Can you explain where would solder where in relation to using kmans schematic?
Here is a 5 minute photoshop job for you — if you are a visual person, this should really help. I changed the "legs" of the resistor and LED to yellow and green instead of silver so they show up better in the pic.

The resistor is 150 ohms. The IR LED has a +/- side, so you just need to make sure the - side goes to the resistor and then to ground. The - side physically has a flat spot on that side of the LED, and a shorter leg. The resistor orientation does not matter.

You can just bend the legs to reach their spots. Only 3 solder joints, highlighted in red. It can't get much easier than this.

11-18-2014 02:27 PM
toaduck
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnotherHobby View Post
If you want to make this super stupid easy, get a data logging shield. They are less than $5 shipped on evilbay (for example, search item 191138232800). It has an RTC built in, so you don't have to solder that, and it has a small prototyping area to solder the resistor and IR emitter, so you don't need a proto-shield. The proto area has 5v, ground, and access to all the pins you need. You are reduced to 3 simple soldering joints for the IR stuff, and that's it. It has an SD card you won't use, but for less than $5 who cares.
Thanks. I wish I understood this stuff more. I wouldn't know where to solder what. I'm good at following schematics.....my soldering skills are good but that's about it. Can you explain where would solder where in relation to using kmans schematic?
11-18-2014 02:19 PM
AnotherHobby If you want to make this super stupid easy, get a data logging shield. They are less than $5 shipped on evilbay (for example, search item 191138232800). It has an RTC built in, so you don't have to solder that, and it has a small prototyping area to solder the resistor and IR emitter, so you don't need a proto-shield. The proto area has 5v, ground, and access to all the pins you need. You are reduced to 3 simple soldering joints for the IR stuff, and that's it. It has an SD card you won't use, but for less than $5 who cares.
11-18-2014 07:15 AM
kman
Quote:
Originally Posted by toaduck View Post
Thanks so much. You have just made up my mind. I'm going to do this. My wife thanks you.......lololol
Have fun, and post pictures!
11-18-2014 07:04 AM
toaduck Thanks so much. You have just made up my mind. I'm going to do this. My wife thanks you.......lololol
11-18-2014 07:02 AM
kman
Quote:
Originally Posted by toaduck View Post
What does the output voltage on the phone need to be or does it matter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by toaduck View Post
Oh and is the ir receiver necessary? It's just for when he was experimenting, right?
Any phone charger where you put a USB connector into the charger is going to be USB standard 5v, which is exactly what you need.

And yes, that's right. The IR receiver was only necessary in the early stages so the OP could learn the IR codes for the Current lights. Since you have Current lights, all of that work is done. If you had some other brand of light that used IR but different codes, then you would have some work to do, and would need the IR receiver as well. (The Ecotech E series codes have also been worked out by AnotherHobby, so if you end up with those lights, also no need for IR receiver) But no, you're all set with Current lights.
11-18-2014 06:57 AM
toaduck Oh and is the ir receiver necessary? It's just for when he was experimenting, right?
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