|06-17-2013 04:32 PM|
Sorry, I have not had a chance to test my tap water. I do not think there is a problem there though, as I do not have a problem with my nano.
Here is a random question. When reading the results in the test tube, do I hold it up to the light and compare with the light going through the tube? Or hold it up to the card, blocking the light from coming through.
I did a 50% water change last night and tested after. With the tube held up to the light, the result looks like 20 to 40 ppm. With the tube held up to the card so light does not pass through, it looks like 80 ppm.
As for cleaning it out... I did something like that when i had a brown algae out break. I took every plant out and cleaned them, and thoughtfully scrubbed everything. I also added about 20 plants, and 4 Otos. Never had that problem again.
Right now I am dealing with what looks like green hair algae. Its on my driftwood and any plant or object that gets 3 to 4 inches from the surface.
|06-17-2013 03:22 AM|
The 2-part algae attack posted by Ham Toast is a good way to go.
But you cannot do only half the job.
Take care of the problem that caused the algae, and physically remove the algae.
With the cause removed the remnants of algae will not be able to stage a come back.
The large and frequent water changes are an important part of the solution. Whatever went wrong, wherever the nutrients came from they need to be removed. Small, infrequent water changes are not going to put a dent in the accumulating nutrients.
|06-16-2013 09:11 PM|
I had a similar issue for a good two months. Green algae covered everything and I was ripping my hair out over it. I finally decided to just invest some serious effort and fight the algae problem full force.
What worked for me was to do a big clean of the tank, taking everything out that was removable and scrubbing algae off those object. I also scraped the glass and rinsed the filter elements in tank water (to preserve the good bacterias).
While doing this I was removing tank water and had it down to about 60% of normal water level. I filled it up and then did a 50% water change. So in total it was about a 65% tank water change, coupled with heavy cleaning.
My fish all took to the stresses just fine and I proceeded with phase two. Over the next week I did a DAILY 30% water change and stopped fertilization. After the first week I continued the daily water changes but dropped the amount to only 10%. After all that was done my nitrates reached a stable 5-10 ppm.
Also make sure your nitrate test is calibrated. A quick search on the forums should get you a pretty good ho-to thread on test kit calibration.
|06-16-2013 05:44 AM|
You will probably also need to increase co2 to combat algae.
|06-16-2013 05:02 AM|
|Zorfox||What was the result your tap water? What were the nitrate results checking them against a known level as I mentioned previously? Eliminate the obvious and simple solutions first.|
|06-16-2013 03:19 AM|
Keep up the water changes until the fertilizer has finished adding nitrate to the water. Lots of water changes.
Having some plants to remove it is good, too, but if there is a light issue, then the plants may not grow fast enough to be very good at removing the nitrate. Better lights are good.
When you use slow release fertilizer that is supposed to be buried, press each one down all the way to the bottom of the tank, and make sure it stays there when you remove your finger or whatever you are using to push it down.
lullafishi, NO3 level makes no difference to the bacteria you are trying to grow when you are cycling a tank. Keep the ammonia and nitrite under 5 ppm, but the nitrate can get WAY high, and not be an issue.
|06-16-2013 01:31 AM|
Reduce Feeding (which has already been done, I might even make it every 3 days)
More or larger water changes (partially done, going to attempt a 50% change in the next few days)
Add some floating plants (making a deal on some now)
Sound like a good plan?
The algae growth is bothering me as well, which is what alerted me to a nitrate problem in the first place.
|06-15-2013 11:45 PM|
|06-15-2013 11:39 PM|
You'll either wait it out or completely change out your substrate. Waiting it out will take months...depending on the number of tabs you placed in the tank. It's been 3 months for me. You'll need to do larger weekly or bi-weekly water changes. I'm considering buy an additional HOB filter and rotating packs of Nitra-zorb and Purigen to help out.
I guess on the upside my frogbit, which struggled to grow in my tanks before this is now thriving. I'm tossing away handfuls a day.
|06-15-2013 10:47 PM|
The last time I did add root tabs (Ozmocote Plus ones I got on here) I did not put them deep enough, and some of them opened near the surface. I thought I had pushed them down far enough and was wrong on a few of them. I removed most of the pieces that came to the surface, or buried them.
So perhaps this is the source of my problem. That was a month ago. I then moved some plants around, and probably disturbed them more.
Should I be concerned about this? Or do I just have to wait it out, doing increased water changes? Does anyone have any tips for ensuring you get them down far enough?
|06-15-2013 10:07 PM|
Sent from my SCH-R720 using Tapatalk 2
|06-15-2013 07:13 PM|
|lullafishi||d'oh. At least there are no fish or inverts aside from a few trumpet snails in my tank to suffer from my over-zealousness. I found a few and pushed them deeper (which released a little dust cloud of ferts), but they're Pfertz root tabs and are pretty mushy-crumbled already.|
|06-15-2013 06:21 PM|
|crice8||Im currently battling the same issue as some of the beads from inside my rootmedic fert capsules are on the top of my substrate here and there. Only two things you can really do are remove or push them deeper and wait it out|
|06-15-2013 05:49 PM|
My tank is still cycling so my nitrates are 40-80ppm. Not sure how much is attributed to cycling and how much to my root tabs (which do contain nitrogen).
Will this affect my cycle and what do you recommend to do?
|06-15-2013 05:25 PM|
Be very careful not to disturb the substrate, the fertilizer tablets might be too close to the surface, or even exposed somewhere. This could very well be the source of the nitrate.
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|