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  Topic Review (Newest First)
04-30-2016 12:02 AM
Immortal1 Burr, are you asking about 8 bubbles per second at 10 psi cO2 pressure verses 8 bubbles per second at 30 psi cO2 pressure?
If so, then yes, there would be a big difference - if....
and the "if" is the tough part of the discussion to understand for some. I will give it a try. To begin with, assume the amount of water column pressure within the reactor is 10psi. If you set your cO2 regulator at 10psi then there really is not much incentive for the cO2 gas to travel thru the bubble counter and down the tube into the reactor.
If you set your cO2 regulator at 20psi then your cO2 would have an incentive to go into the reactor. Would it be a 10psi incentive? Likely not. The water colume pressure within the reactor will only put up a certian amount of resistance to the inbound cO2 gas. If you were to adjust the cO2 regulator to 30psi then you would assume your getting a lot more cO2 per bubble but again, the small tube from the regulator to the reactor offers very little resistance and the water colume pressure is still only 10psi (assuming for discussion).

Now, if you had a different type if cO2 dispersion method, say an in tank ceramic diffuser then the regulator pressure can make a significant difference. The diffuser is offering much more resistance than an open tube. Lets assume the diffuser requires 25 psi to blow tiny bubbles and at 35psi it blows a lot more tiny bubbles. My guess would be 8 bubbles per second at 35 psi would yield more cO2 dispersed than 8 bubbles per second at 25 psi.

Wow, lot of mumbo jumbo :-)

How about some more. If you mount your Cerges or Griggs reactor in such a way so that the top of the reactor was even with the water level in your tank, then the water column pressure within the reactor would be nearly zero. The incoming water from your canister filter would bounce the cO2 bubbles around a bunch but wound not necessarily "squeeze" the cO2 bubbles into submission. Also, the amount of cO2 pressure within the small open ended tube would be nearly zero psi so the amount of cO2 getting into the reactor would be very small.
If you mounted your reactor in such a way so that the top of the reactor was 10 feet below the water level of your tank there would be a significant amount of water column pressure to "squeeze" the cO2 bubbles into submission! Also, there would be a significantly higher amount of resistance to cO2 gas entering the reactor so you would have to increase your regulator psi which inturn would greatly increase the amount of cO2 gas entering the reactor!

Pretty sure non of us would like to mount our tanks 10' in the air. But, for those who have the display tank mounted on the first floor and the sump / filter equipment setup in the basement - I would guess you could dump a lot of cO2 into the water column!

As for the rest of us with normal setups, I would like to propose an interesting question. Which would be better, a 30" tall Griggs reactor made out of 2" PVC and mounted vertically under the tank? Or a 10" tall Griggs reactor made out of 6" PVC mounted vertically with the bottom of the reactor mounted a low as possible?

Ok, too much thinking. Time for a beer.
04-29-2016 05:42 AM
burr740
Quote:
Originally Posted by Immortal1 View Post
Yes, with the bypass fully open, water still runs thru the reactor. How much exactly, I don't now. Will have to spend some time figuring out what regulator pressure, what BPS, what bypass valve setting works. Should be fun.
Hey Immortal,

Would there be any difference between 8 bps going in at 10 psi wp and 8 bps going in at 30?

Still fine tuning my griggs and just wondering. On one hand seems like there would be no difference, but on the other hand seems like there might be.
04-29-2016 04:40 AM
IUnknown Immortal1,
Thanks so much, super helpful. I'll try it out.
04-29-2016 12:10 AM
Immortal1 IUnknown, having built several Cerges reactors I can offer a few bits of info regarding your situation.
Some of the whole house filters have fairly small holes leading into and out of the filter. This ends up causing the poor flow at the tank output. One way of fixing this is to add a regulated bypass to the Cerges reactor.
As for your reactor filling up with air / cO2, this would be an indication of running too many bubbles per second for the amount of water flowing thru the reactor. Not sure why, but it seems if you have a little slower flow rate thru the reactor, it seems to absorb the cO2 faster. For my system I run 5-8 bubbles per second without issue. Anything more than 8 and I start building a bubble in the top of the reactor.

04-28-2016 03:42 AM
IUnknown I have been having issues with my cerges reactor filling up with air, and worried that the flow rate has been reduced too much. Haven't read the whole thread, but does the DIY Griggs style reactor provide more flow? Why is air filling up?
04-11-2016 01:05 AM
Cento
Quote:
Originally Posted by plant_guru View Post
None of the pics in the first post are working


As micca stated above, look at post #770 - all the pics u need are there. Hopefully they stay there for the coming years to help other hobbyists.

I guess that's why these things should be made sickies - or does that not prevent the image source from disappearing I wonder.... [emoji848]
04-10-2016 10:34 PM
plant_guru None of the pics in the first post are working
04-10-2016 05:01 PM
seandelevan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patriot View Post
Did you have a sponge in the filter? I had the same problem when the sponge clogged.
Nah, had nothing in it...so then I got to the point where I began taking media out of the eheim....to the point where it was empty!!! It went from a slow trickle to maybe a medium trickle. Smh.
04-10-2016 04:05 PM
Patriot
Quote:
Originally Posted by seandelevan View Post
I ditched the Cerges reactor after 5 years because of lack of flow. It was pitiful. I needed to eheim 2015 at one point. The one connected to the reactor was at best a weak trickle...the one without was full stream. Finally went I with DIY Griggs style reactor and it was good to go.
Did you have a sponge in the filter? I had the same problem when the sponge clogged.
04-10-2016 04:03 PM
seandelevan I ditched the Cerges reactor after 5 years because of lack of flow. It was pitiful. I needed two eheim 2015s at one point. The one connected to the cerges reactor was at best a weak trickle...the one without was full stream. Finally went with a DIY Griggs style reactor and it was good to go. Didn't need two filters taking up space anymore. I would do a cerges again if I had something like a fx5 or fx6 that had over the top flow.
04-03-2016 06:59 AM
Patriot I would get the largest you could possibly fit. The bubbleight not have time to diffuse in such a small space.
04-03-2016 06:51 AM
payluder Would this size work if I want to build the reactor? I have a small 17 gallon and my stand is already crowded.
7-3/8 x 4-5/8 inches (187 x 118 mm)

Amazon.com: Pentek 158110 3/8" #5 Slim Line Clear Filter Housing: Industrial & Scientific Amazon.com: Pentek 158110 3/8" #5 Slim Line Clear Filter Housing: Industrial & Scientific
02-05-2016 01:04 PM
jedimasterben
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patriot View Post
This is the flow I get using a 20 inch housing with a Sunsun 404b "525" GPH.

Looking into upgrading to a Fx6.
I am using a Sunsun 304B that I just got set up. With a standard 10" filter from Home Depot that has 3/4" connections and 3/4" the entire run, I get less than 120GPH back into the tank. This is with the canister completely empty, too, no filter pads and no media. Really disappointed in this one - my Sunsun 302 gives more flow than this when packed with filter floss and going through 13mm glass pipes instead of 16mm.

This is the canister I used: Glacier Bay Basic Household Water Filtration System-HDG2BS4 - The Home Depot

The inputs are 3/4", but the actual openings inside are much smaller, less than 1/2". I am wondering if I will get more flow if I replace the canister with a legit Pentek filter. I actually have a 20" 'Big Blue' that I was using for my house before I upgraded that system, so I would just need to swap it out, but it's so damned heavy when full that I don't think my stand can take the torque it would apply to one brace. I have a feeling, though, that it won't make too much of a difference.
01-18-2016 11:35 PM
Patriot

This is the flow I get using a 20 inch housing with a Sunsun 404b "525" GPH.

Looking into upgrading to a Fx6.
01-18-2016 09:06 PM
pwu_1 I'm setting up a 46 bowfront and built one of these Cerges reactors. In my old 20 Long using a diffuser connected to the inlet of my HOB filter, it would take hours and very high bubble count before my drop checker would change to a light green color. Using the Cerges, should I expect the time for the drop checker to change color to be about the same or should it happen faster? How about co2 bubble count? In my previous HOB diffusion method, I know there was a lot of waste because I can see the bubbles going up to the surface inside my HOB. Seems like the cerges should be more efficient and much less wasted CO2?

Bump: btw, in case anyone is interested, I found and purchased this filter from amazon. It cost about the same as the lowes/homedepot one but it is clear

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009BAM8AU/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453154812&sr=0

With this filter, I use a regular 1 inch pvc pipe cut down to length as the center pipe and it fits snug without glue
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