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  Topic Review (Newest First)
12-29-2011 02:42 AM
kahoproductionz giving me some ideas here... OP good thread brotha
10-19-2011 02:04 AM
Originally Posted by Rich Conley View Post
Gatekeeper, you misunderstand the physics of how simple centrifugal pumps work.

Doing what you're suggesting is actually more work on the pump than restricting the outflow. Seriously, put it on a watt-meter and check it out.

Common aquarium pumps actually run cooler, and at significantly lower wattage when throttled back a bit (on the output, always)
Agreed! They don't produce much pressure at all, so throttling them just means reducing the flow through them, and their power consumption is roughly proportional to the flow rate they are driving.
10-18-2011 05:14 PM
Rich Conley
Originally Posted by Gatekeeper View Post
Hmmm. So you force back pressure against the power head to restrict flow? I am not a fan of that, but whatever suits your needs.

In the future, something to consider would be to do what people with sumps do, add in a bypass loop that goes back to the filter. Then by adding in a throttling valve, you force flow back into the filter as opposed to just creating "extra work" and back pressure against something that is not designed for throttling.

Gatekeeper, you misunderstand the physics of how simple centrifugal pumps work.

Doing what you're suggesting is actually more work on the pump than restricting the outflow. Seriously, put it on a watt-meter and check it out.

Common aquarium pumps actually run cooler, and at significantly lower wattage when throttled back a bit (on the output, always)
10-09-2011 06:17 AM
Heres my canister filtler

took some time getting it just right
09-23-2009 11:20 PM
Airphotog Here is a great place to buy fittings and valves.
When you drill through your plastic I would use some kind of bulkhead fitting. They are made for exactly what you are doing.
09-23-2009 10:50 PM
hamstermann To get the power cord through such a small hole, did you have to cut and then rewire it? what did you do to re-seal and waterproof it and make sure that it can't be pulled apart again?

I know you used silicon to fill the endcap for the leakproofing, but (assuming you did cut then re-wire and did it on the end of the cord that is not inside the canister) what did you do to prevent water from getting into the wires should something leak or should water spill along the cord during a water change, etc? I would think that electrical tape wouldn't hold up tp much water so wouldn't use that, necessarily.
07-24-2009 05:53 PM
rfd515 Like the above stated, put the ball valve on the outflow. And putting outflow restriction on a centrifugal pump does no harm to the pump. It will use less wattage accordingly and shouldn't harm the life of the pump.
07-15-2009 02:04 AM
Hoppy The type of pumps we use can run for hours with the outlet mostly blocked, but if you block the inlet more than slightly, the pump will cavitate and destroy itself eventually. This means you do any flow regulating downstream of the pump, never upstream.
07-15-2009 01:59 AM
C2C That is soooo cool
i was goingg to do the same thing but with a taller container cause mine is a blue lid as well.

the only thing diffrent i was going to make it gravity/trickle style, not pressurized
07-07-2009 02:53 AM
Deja_Vu Hmm... I was just thinking over my plans for my DIY and came to a road block. Instead of opening a new thread, ill just post here (sorry to threadjack you lol).

The pump I will be using is a Quiet One model 1200 pump. I got a good deal on one ($10) so I will just be using that.

I plan to use the pump inline, meaning it will look like this: = means tubing [] means pump

Fish Tank ======== [] ======= Canister

The problem I am seeing arising is the power of the pump. It is rated at 296 GPH. The tank it's going in is a 20 gallon long. I am thinking that this flow will be too powerful going back into the tank, and possibly disturbing substrate/plants.

I want to add one of those ball joint pressure regulators that you are using, but my question is:

Will it work better/safer if I put pressure regulator before the pump or after the pump?

If it's before the pump the setup will look like

Fish Tank ===== X ==== [] ===== Canister

= meaning tube X meaning the regulator and [] meaning canister

Tell me what you think?
07-05-2009 05:19 AM
Deja_Vu I thought that exact thing when I did mine. Here's what I did:

**First, I should mention that the pump I chose was able to run in-line, or externally, thus not having to have the pump in the filter, and being able to add the C02 to the canister, which is after the pump. This eliminates "airlock" **

Instead of having the inflow at the top and outflow at the bottom, I had mine switched around. It has it's pro's and cons, but as long as everything is air tight and secured, it shouldn't be a problem to do it this way.

The reason I chose to do it this way, was because I knew I wanted to incorporate my C02 injection through the canister filter to maximize diffusion, it also makes room in the tank from any diffusers not being there (can make a huge difference in nano tanks).

I made a separate insertion on my bucket/container, right next to the inflow insertion. I chose to put the both the C02 line and inflow line on the bottom for two reasons.

1. If it's by the inflow, the C02 must travel throughout the filter, thus creating better diffusion.
2. Gas is lighter, thus it will attempt to rise, and going with the flow of the water, the C02 will be more inclined to being "forced" upon something in the filter, hopefully dispersing it throughout the water more effectively

Like I said, as long as everything is nice and air tight, and building integrity was not sacrificed for sake of time, then there should be no problem having inflow at the bottom and outflow at the top.

I was also thinking of incorporating a smaller, simple HOB filter, who's only media was either more polishing pads, or more bios.

I mainly use HOB's for surface tension so oils don't build up on the water surface.

If you were to put the outflow of the canister filter leading to the inflow of the HOB filter, the C02 dispersed water would travel through the impellers of the HOB filter, possibly dispursing the C02 even further.

At one time, I also just had the canister filter separate from C02, and just had the line from the DIY C02 bottle running to the inflow of the HOB filter and using the propellers on that for my only means of dispersion.

Both of those last two techniques could be argued against however, arguing that alot of C02 would escape as it leaves the HOB filter.

Either way, just giving my input on possibly making that nice DIY canister you made more effecient. =D
07-05-2009 02:00 AM
Regloh You make a good point... you should be able to get close to 100% efficiency this way.
With the powerhead on the bottom of the tank there is very little chance it will "airlock" the pump, which is the most common concern with running the CO2 into canister filters...
07-05-2009 01:30 AM
Deja_Vu Wouldn't it diffuse C02 better if you put it on the inflow instead of outflow?

Seeing as how the canister is air tight, or should be; that gives a longer time for the C02 bubble to be in contact with the water. Not to mention all the times it comes into contact with your pot scrubbers, egg crate, ect. will diffuse it even more into the water. It just makes sense to me.

I made a DIY canister filter out of one of those old Country Crock butter containers. I had the line from the C02 bottle running through my inflow, didn't seem to have any adverse effects at the least.
06-28-2009 01:06 AM
Originally Posted by CardBoardBoxProcessor View Post
nice car 0__O
It did come across my mind to say that, too
06-28-2009 12:37 AM
CardBoardBoxProcessor nice car 0__O
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