i don't mean to be a stick in the mud, but i don't understand the species selection for this column(?). this is supposed to be a planted aquarium forum. [I]Arius jordani[/I] seems like a bad choice for a planted tank.
I hate to also be a stick in the mud, but PLEASE do your research before you purchase this all too common chain store staple. This fish is DISASTROUS in most tanks. This is mostly due to the fact that it is most commonly purchased by newbies.
This includes MYSELF. My first fish were a pair of these in a ten gallon tank. Three years later I had aquired four more and all exceeded 12". They were living in a kiddie pool because they had outgrown every tank I owned.
In addition to thier size this fish really needs to be kept in groups, and it is also a VERY active swimmer. As they mature they become very neurotic in a small tank (55 gals or less), constantly banging thier faces against the glass and occasionally spooking and attempting to leap out of the tank...no fun. Please have at least a 6 ft tank ready for these guys.
That aside...they are awesome fish! Can't beat the super cool "shark" look! Although "knowledgable" people will tell you they "require" brackish water as they mature or they will "develope skin problems" or just die, it is worth mentioning that all the larger, older specimens I've encountered have lived in pure freshwater. I'm certainly not arguing that brackish isn't thier natural environment, or that it would be best for them....it just may not be as important as people imply.
they also do fairly well in full marine. (SG 1.020 - 1.022 is what the LFS keeps them in) Not sure if this is bad for long term or not but several months and they are doing great.... better that the FW ones)
I HAVE HAD A SLIVER TIP SHARK IN A 25 GALLON TANK FOR 5 YEARS AND BOUGHT HIM A 55 GALLON TANK I HAVE ONLY PUT A FEW TABLESPOONS ON SALT IN THE TANK DURING WATER CHANGES. HE HAS GROWN TO BE ABOUT 12-14 INCHES LONG NOW HAS NEVER EATEN ANY OF MY OTHER FISH AND IS VERY WILD AND CRAZY IN THE TANK (ALSO HAS JUMPED OUT ONCE) MUST HAVE A LID AT ALL TIMES! I JUST GOT 2 MORE AS LITTLE BABIES DOES ANYONE KNOW THE MALES FROM FEMALES?
To Plopkid5, I actually have a tank that contains a dragon goby with the silvertipped. It works, though I wouldn't recommend it, and in fact regret my set-up now. Sadly, I'm kind of stuck with it for a while. The issue here is that the shark(s) is/are going to want to take the dragon goby's food, who is essentially defenseless against these guys. They're quick and strong, whereas the dragon goby is weak and practically blind, making it easy for the sharks to spot the food and difficult for the goby. I used to have a castle in my tank for the goby, in which he mainly stayed because of the darkness in it (since they like the dark). At the time, this made it easy to have both the silvertipped and the goby, because i would drop algae waffers through a tube/straw like thing. So he got his food and the shark had no idea. So if you can pull off a setting like this for your dragon goby (and make sure he mostly wants to be in that secluded area), then I say go for it. Aside from a food issue, they don't conflict or bother each other at all, from my experience.
These are wonderful fish, A few things you need to be careful of. 1. Their fines contain an anticoagulant toxin so if you get pricked by one you really have to clean the wound or it will keep bleeding for hours. 2. They are easily spooked, and are known to jump out of tanks, so they should always have a lid. On several occasions I had to save my Fishes life. 3. Tied with #2 they stir up substrate, when I first kept them I had play sand as a substrate(so lots of micro sand) for my plants and when they kicked it up it would get sucked into the filter and ruined they ruined my two Aquaclear 100's, sounded like Finger nails to a chalkboard but louder. 4. They do get very large, I intentionally kept them with mollies and they enjoyed those molly babies very much. 5. With my experience they did not pair well with Mono's(This could just be the mono's fault) I several Argentina and Sabae and they all tail nipped my catfish. I would not recommend that pairing. 6. They require High water flow, they are active swimmers and love to coast in the current, so at least 4x cycles an hour, I would recommend a power head. 7. To what I understand these are brackish fish that are hatched in freshwater and grow through adulthood require full marine water, At 12" I had mine at 1.014 and they were sill happy and healthy. So unsure at what point if at any point they require full marine. 8. They do prefer higher PH water like all marine fish, so us some type of Aragonite. Mine catfish really liked the Pink fiji sand I used, like i said earlier they are jumpy so I was afraid of them getting cut on sharp objects(aka broken shells) 9. Keep the water warm I had mine above 80, My fish died when the power was out for 3 days and the water temp dropped. 10. I would not recommend keeping with planted tank, the reason why you have to change increase the amount of salt in the tank when they get older. I had a hard time finding plants that would go above 1.008 SG. RIP @ Dormilon, If you are having trouble with your Dragon goby. 1. They aren't blind they have excellent night vision, mine was always swimming around at night. 2. Give them a nice cave or shelter to hid in that only they can access(aka small entrance I made mine out of black slate rocks and He loved it), so other fish don't take their spot. 3. They are very slow eaters, solution is once you have a cave established for them feed them with a turkey baster and leave it at their cave entrance, they will gobbel it all up if they the chance(a.k.a not competing).
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