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Hoppy Hoppy is online now

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Showing Visitor Messages 111 to 120 of 190
  1. ThatGuyWithTheFish
    05-14-2012 07:28 PM - permalink
    Hm, here's a link to his site:

    You probably don't know him, or you would've recognized his name instantly. :P
  2. Hoppy
    05-14-2012 07:05 PM - permalink
    Uncle Ned? No, I had a lot of uncles, but no Neds.
  3. ThatGuyWithTheFish
    05-13-2012 09:56 PM - permalink
    Hey, do you know Ned of Uncle Ned's in MA? Your avatar really reminds me of the one from his website homepage.
  4. Hoppy
    05-09-2012 05:52 AM - permalink
    treelimbjim, that other post was done back when I was still trying to make sense out of designing a LED light. I wouldn't recommend following that method now. The calculator is based on more data and more varied data. If you have taken some PAR measurements with other configurations I would appreciate receiving the data so I can see how it fits in with the other data I have.

    This is still an evolving design process, but I haven't seen a better process.
  5. treelimbjim
    05-09-2012 04:23 AM - permalink
    Thank you for your contributions.

    Trying to answer "How many (and type) LEDs to use my 70 gal?" or simply, "Is 24 XPG enough? 36?"

    I've been estimating with spreadsheet V.3.

    Tank: 48wx18dx20h, 3" substrate

    Frame: 1.5" aluminum extrusions, 3 x 48" rails on 5.25" centers.

    Table for PAR est. for L,M,H light (see below)
    LED height: Tank_height + LED_Height_above_water - Substrate_depth
    Conditional format: 1) PAR background is blue, green, orange for L,M,H light. 2) current background is red when >rating.
    Table for Spread with LED_Height and Cone_Angle

    I'm not clear about how the "rows" work. I'm trying the geometric mean of LED_spacing and my LED_row_spacing.
    Trying to validate the calculations, I ran across 84212-designing-building-led-fixture-22.html#post1102937
    ... and the spreadsheet isn't coming close to real world observations.

    Where to go from here?
  6. Hoppy
    05-08-2012 05:07 AM - permalink
    The number and spacing of LEDs for any size tank can be calculated with reasonable accuracy using a Excel Spreadsheet "calculator" shown here: I doubt that you will want to use Cree XP-G LEDs for that small a tank. Perhaps XR-E would be a better choice.
  7. MPH1
    05-08-2012 04:31 AM - permalink
    Hello Hoppy,

    I understand you are the aquarium lighting mentor. I was sent over here from Nano Reef by Evilc66. I am looking for some help with the lighting for my Aquarium.

    I am new to the aquarium/lighting arena. I have a Fluval 12 gallon tank with fresh water. I am wanting to grow some high light plants and carpet plants.

    I am considering a DIY modification to the lighting. I am looking into getting the CREE XP-G LED's. What do you think is the appropriate amount of cool white led's and the total amount of watts/lumens for the 12 gallon?

    Your input is appreciated!


  8. Hoppy
    03-10-2012 10:22 PM - permalink
    With high light it is easy to run short of phosphates, and when you do, GSA starts growing vigorously. The solution is to dose more phosphates - I used to routinely double the EI dosage.
  9. ryc120
    03-09-2012 03:10 PM - permalink
    Surprisingly everything has been fine. I am running pressurized CO2 in the 29g now, and the plants are growing crazy. The issue is I am starting to see some GSA. I have had these lights on the tank for two months now. I'll try putting a layer of window screen on and see if that helps the algae issue. The lights are on right now for 8.5 hrs a day.
  10. Hoppy
    03-09-2012 04:45 AM - permalink
    Two T5HO bulbs close together, with a good reflector, should give you high light at the substrate (24 inches away, assuming 3 inches of substrate.) That is too much light for what you are trying to do. A layer of figerglass window screen would reduce that to medium light, which may still be a bit more light than you need. Two layers reduce it to low light, just about right. I'm assuming the lights are both T5HO, and that they overlap in the middle, by two feet. That two feet of overlap is even higher light.

    I suggest you try for only low light, not use CO2, and if you are concerned about keeping enough oxygen in the water, direct filter returns up towards the water surface to create surface rippling across the whole length of the tank.

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    Sacramento, CA
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05:27 AM - Nick00Merlin mentioned Hoppy in post 125H Gallon First Time Live Plant Project (Lots Of Pictures)
...resting experience. Hoppy has a lot of good in...
12:32 PM - bassbuster23 mentioned Hoppy in post Will this work?
...ssing towards also, Hoppy. Do go ahead - it...
09:14 PM - thedood mentioned Hoppy in post Types of Metricide question. Thanks Hoppy and bassbuster23
03:04 AM - Audionut mentioned Hoppy in post Wrapping my head around KH and co2. Led light questions! Look!
... Minor correction Hoppy. That would be Bica...
01:39 AM - Audionut mentioned Hoppy in post CO2, pH, and dKH question observation from Hoppy. The last paragraph...
02:32 AM - burr740 mentioned Hoppy in post Lighting an Aquarium with PAR instead of Watts
...hat one was made by Hoppy (thanks again man, i...


10:43 PM - Hoppy quoted i4x4nMore in post PAR Data-Spiral Power Saver Bulbs, lighting question
jraculya,If you can track down...
10:37 PM - Hoppy quoted Mytkobun in post Sacramento Area LFS
Stopped by the other day at J...
02:59 PM - Maryland Guppy quoted Hoppy in post How To Test CO2
I think it is best to just...
05:31 AM - Hoppy quoted jraculya in post PAR Data-Spiral Power Saver Bulbs, lighting question
Thank you for the quick respo...
05:15 AM - Hoppy quoted Sergeant Dude in post Water changes. How is filling your tank with a hose possible without death to Fish?
Chloramine isn't nearly as toxic a...
12:57 AM - Argus quoted Hoppy in post Top off water
Has anyone ever run into p...
12:30 AM - quiquik quoted Hoppy in post Top off water
...ersely affected. No Hoppy I have not had any p...

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