Bromothymol blue by itself isn't going to work. The test reagent contains a little more than that, but the dye is bromothymol blue. API pH test kit reagent is the right mix to make this work. Or, any similar pH test kit reagent, as long as the color chart for that test kit shows that yellow is about 6.0pH and the darkest blue is about 7.6pH.
I recently made a dropcheker reference solution from one of the guideson PTN and I tested it and it was spot on. THe problem is when I add it to the bromethyl blue it turns instantly black/green and then in my tank it moves to a yellowy green orangiesh is this possible? did I put to much blue in?
I hope that I did not upset you in any way through my arguments. That certainly wasn't the intention. All I'm trying to do is defend an alternative way to find an estimate power requirement for a new light fitting that matches a required PAR criterion.
thank s so much hoppy, you dont know how much your help means to me. I've been into freshwater for over 30 yrs, and this lighting crap with all the myths gets aggrivating. I've only recently started to try to grow more demanding plants. I was a Cichlid breeder for about 15 or so yrs and cou[dnt keep anything but java moss and java fern.
hey Hoppy, do you know anything about the Marineland Aquatic Plant LED Lighting System w/Timer. It provides 172 peak PAR values at 12 inches. Any ideal what that might be at 17 inches, should still be high values is what I'm thinking. I purchased one today.
I don't think I have seen any PAR data for that light fixture, so I'm not at all sure how much light you are getting. I haven't grown hairgrass either, but I understand that it will grow with less than high light, but good CO2 is very beneficial for it. I think you can do some searching in the Plants forum and find out more about it.