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Old 04-11-2008, 01:02 PM   #121 (permalink)
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Thanks james thats awesome. So awesome it seems other people want to take credit for ur post. http://www.endlersr.us/viewtopic.php?p=2011#2011
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Old 04-11-2008, 07:14 PM   #122 (permalink)
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Unfortunately I cannot view it and I am also awaiting for my account to be activated on the site.
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Old 04-11-2008, 08:16 PM   #123 (permalink)
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Dr. Tran I thank you for the lookout. I took a look at her extras she has on the list and I am curious as to her experiences.
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Old 04-11-2008, 08:46 PM   #124 (permalink)
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No problem james, its an excellent list and if my work was being spread around, I would like to know. Thanks for taking ur time to make this list.
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Old 04-11-2008, 08:55 PM   #125 (permalink)
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I agree. That is why I appreciate Homer for him giving me the credit and then letting me know about some other sites. My list is based on just research that I have done. Im sure others have had the idea but I just put it in black and white.
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Old 04-12-2008, 02:17 AM   #126 (permalink)
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I am conteplating on adding Cardamine lyrata to the list. Anyone have any ideas on this?
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Old 04-13-2008, 12:22 PM   #127 (permalink)
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I am conteplating on adding Cardamine lyrata to the list. Anyone have any ideas on this?
Hey James this is my experience.

I have some cardamine lyrata in a 3 gallon low tech, low light(10 watt compact flurorescent at work), it is growing at a snails pace. And talk about snails, the tank has snails and either the snail or Amano Shrimp is eating the leaves as the cardamine leaves appear as though they have been munched on. The same is true for a low tech, low light(15 watt compact fluorescent 6500 K daylight) 5 gallon tank at home. Again, something is munching on the leaves and my guess is that it is either the snails or Amano Shrimps. No c02 injection in either tank, and I do dose with Excel daily with a double dose with every water change. The leaves tend to grow close to the surface and in all the tanks that I have it in the leaves closest to the top seem be develop green spot algae and in the 5 gallon low tech tank, I am also seeing black brush algae on the leaves closest to the surface. The average tank temperature in both the 3 gallon and 5 gallon low tech is about 27 degrees celcius.

With all other things being equal I just added Cardamine Lyrata to a 5 gallon low tech hex tank that I set up. Based on what happened with it in the other tanks you would think that it would/should have done well. It did okay(did not grow or die) for the first month but then literally fell apart at the seams. The only difference between this tank and the 3 gallon and 5 gallon was temperature. The hex tank was averaging temperatures of 30 degrees celcius unlike the 27 degrees celcius tempertature of the 3 and 5 gallon. I suspect that cadamine lyrata does not do well at higher temperatures. Based on this description, the plant prefers 18-25 degree temperature, which may explain why it fell apart in the hex at 30 degree celcius temperature, with all other things being equal.

In my 15 gallon ADA Aquasoil tank(1/2 EI fert dosing) with 46 watt 6500K compact fluorescent bulb lighting, DIY c02 injection, it grows like a weed and I have to trim it weekly. Again, the 15 gallon tank temperature averages 27 degrees celcius. In another 10 gallon tank with 26 watt lighting(EI fert dosing) with DIY c02 injection and Schultz Aquatic Soil, it also grows like a weed, but growth seems to really slow down when tank temperature shoots up to 30 degrees celcius. This is also true of my 40 gallon tank with 2 55 watt AH supply bright kit lighting and pressurized c02 injection. In both those tanks, the cardamine leaves closest to the tank's surface have a bad case of green spot algae.

Just my 2 cents.
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Old 04-13-2008, 06:34 PM   #128 (permalink)
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Thanks Homer. This might be another test like Mosses. How mosses prefer cooler waters, maybe the cardimime would do better as well. Thanks for your experiences.
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Old 04-13-2008, 09:35 PM   #129 (permalink)
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Added Ceratopteris siliquosa and Hygrophila balsamica. I am also going to experiment with Myriphyllum mattogrossense, Shinnersia ricularis, Cardamine lyrata, and Nymphoides sp. Taiwan.

B=Background,M=Midground,F=Foreground,FL=Floater,A =Anywhere,

FERNS & MOSSES
A-Marimo Ball- Cladophora aegagrophila
B-African Water Fern - Bolbitis heudelotii
B/FL-Watersprite - Ceratopteris thalictroides
B/FL- Thread Leaf Watersprite - Ceratopteris siliquosa
A-Pheonix Moss - Fissidens fontanus
A-Singapore Fissidens-Fissidens sp. "Singapore"
A-Zipper Moss - Fissidens zippelianus
A-Willow Moss - Fontinalis antipyretica
M-Wavy Leaf Java Fern- Microsorum pteropus undulata
M-Tropica Java Fern-Microsurm pteropus 'tropica'
M-Philippine Java Fern - Microsorum pteropus 'Philippine'
M-Java Fern - Microsorum pteropus
M-Red Java fern - Microsorum pteropus "red"
M-Windelov Java Fern - Microsorum pteropus 'Windelov'
M-Narrow Leaf Java Fern - Microsorum pteropus v. 'narrow leaf'
M-Needle Leaf Java Fern- Microsorum pteropus 'needle leaf'
A-Pellia - Monosolenium tenerum
A-Mini Pellia - Riccardia chamedryfolia
F/FL-Riccia - Riccia fluitans
A-Round Pellia - Süßwassertang
A-Flame Moss - Taxiphyllum alternans
A-Java Moss - Taxiphyllum barbieri
A-Peacock Moss - Taxiphyllum sp. 'peacock'
A-Taiwan Moss - Taxiphyllum sp.
A-Singapore Moss - Vesicularia dubyana
A-Christmas Moss - Vesicularia montagnei
A-Erect Moss - Vesicularia reticulata
F-Water Clover - Mariselia minuta
F-Marsilea hirsuta
F-Four Leaf Clover - Mariselia quadrifolia

STEM PLANTS
B-Waterwheel Plant - Aldrovanda vesiculosa
B-Bacopa - Bacopa caroliniana
B-Moneywort - Bocapa monnieri
B/FL-Hornwort - Ceratophylum demersum
B/F-LWatersprite - Ceratopteris thalictroides
B/FL-Anacharis - Egeria densa
B-American Waterweed- Elodea canadensis
F-HC- Hemianthus callitrichoides
B-Stargrass - Heteranthera zosterifolia
B/FL-Brazilian Pennywort - Hydrocotyle leucocephala
M-Water Pennywort - Hydrocotyle ranunculoides
B-Ceylon Hygro - Hygrophila polysperma 'Ceylon'
B-Giant Hygro - Hygrophila corymbosa
B-Water Wisteria - Hygrophila difformis
B-Fine Leafed Wisteria- Hygrophila balsamica
B-Green Hygro - Hygrophila polysperma
B-Sunset Hygro - Hygrophila polysperma 'Rosanervig'
B-Dwarf Ambulia - Limnophila sessiliflora
B-Red Ludwigia- Ludwigia repens
B/FL-Parrots Feather - Myriophyllum aquaticum
B-Guppy Grass - Najas guadalupensis
F/M-Downoi - Pogostemon helferi
B-Rotala Indica - Rotala indica
B-Rotala Rotundifolia - Rotala rotundifolia
B-Rotala Rotundifolia sp. Green - Rotala rotundifolia sp. 'Green'
B-Combomba - Combomba carolina

FLOATERS
B/FL-Hornwort - Ceratophylum demersum
B/F-LWatersprite - Ceratopteris thalictroides
B/FL- Thread Leaf Watersprite - Ceratopteris siliquosa
B/FL-Anacharis - Egeria densa
B/FL-Brazilian Pennywort - Hydrocotyle leucocephala
B/FL-Parrots Feather - Myriophyllum aquaticum
FL-Duckweed - Lemna minor
FL-Red Root Floater - Phyllanthus fluitans
F/FL-Riccia - Riccia fluitans
FL-Giant Slavinia - Salvinia molesta

CRYPTOCORYNE
M-Crypt Affinis - Cryptocoryne affinis
B-Crypt Aponogetifolia - Cryptocoryne aponogetifolia
B-Crypt Balansae - Cryptocoryne balansae
M-Crypt Becketii - Cryptcoryne becketii
M-Crypt Lutea - Cryptocoryne lutea
F-Micro Crypt - Cryptocoryne petchii
F-Pygmy Crypt - Cryptocoryne pygmaea
B-Crypt retrospiralis - Cryptocoryne retrospiralis
B-Crypt spiralis - Cryptocoryne spiralis
M-Crypt Walkeri - Cryptocoryne walkeri
M-Crypt Wendtii - Cryptocoryne wendtii
M-Crypt Willisi - Cryptocoryne willisi
F- Crypt Parva - Cryptocoryne parva
M- Crypt Pontederiifolia - Cryptocoryne pontederiifolia

ANUBIAS
M-Anubias barteri - Anubias barteri
M-Anubias barteri 'marble' - Anubias barteri 'marble'
M-Coffee leaf anubias - Anubias barteri v. 'coffeefolia'
A-Marbled Nana - Anubias barteri nana 'Marble'
M-Anubias barteri v. 'glabra' - Anubias barteri v. 'glabra'
A-Golden nana - Anubias barteri v. 'nana golden'
A-Anubias nana - Anubias barteri v. 'nana'
M-Narrow leaf nana - Anubias barteri v. 'nana narrow leaf'
A-Petite nana - Anubias barteri v. nana 'petite'
M- Minima
B-Hastifolia - Anubias hastifolia
B-Barteri Round Leaf - Anubias barteri v. ‘Round Leaf’
B-Gigantea - Anubias gigantea
B-Congensis - Anubias congensis
B-Lanceolota - Anubias lanceolota
M-Gracilis - Anubias gracilis
M-Anubias Barteri v Angustifolia - Anubias barteri v angustifolia
M-Caladiifolia -Anubias barteri v Caladiifolia
M-Anubias Afzelli - Anubias afzelli

SWORD PLANTS
B-Amazon Sword - Echinodorus amazonicus
B-Ruffle Sword - Echinodorus major
M-Melon Sword - Echinodorus osiris
M-Tropica Sword - Echinodorus parviflorus 'Tropica'
M-Red Flame Sword - Echinodorus 'Red Special'
F-Pygmy Chain Sword - Echinodorus tenellus or Helanthium tenellum
B-Uruguay Amazon Sword - Echinodorus uruguayensis
B-Argentine Sword - Echinodrous argentinensis

LILY'S
F-Lotus- Nymphaea pubescens M-Tiger Lotus - Nymphaea zenkeri

GRASSES
F- Dwarf Hairgrass - Elocharis acicularis
B- Giant Hairgrass - Elocharis montevidensis
B-Water Celery- Vallisneria americana
B-Contortion Val - Vallisneria asiatica
B-Vallisneria natans
B-Valliseneria rubra
N-Corkscrew Val - Vallisneria tortifolia
M-Dwarf Sag- Sagittaria subulata
B-Crinum calimistratum
B-Onion Plant - Crinum thaianum
F-Micro Sword - Lilaeopsis braziliensis
B-Crinum aquatica

APONOGETONS
M-Aponogeton ulvaceous
B-Aponogeton bouvianus
B-Aponogeton crispus
B-Aponogeton elongatus
B-Aponogeton undulatus
B-Rigidifolius - Aponogeton rigidifolius
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Old 04-15-2008, 08:57 PM   #130 (permalink)
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Thanks and your welcome!



Hmmm, that is interesting. If you can get the parameters please post because lately I cannot keep Java Moss alive for my soul.
Here are the parameters based on the samples of water he gave me for both tanks. I found the results quite surprising considering I tested with calibrated test kits, so the results are pretty accurate.

He claims that the java moss is growing like a weed in both tanks.

For the 24 degree celcius 30 gallon tank:

PH: 6.5
GH(General Hardness): 40 ppm(on the soft side). Ideal is considered between 50-120 ppm.
KH(carbonate hardness): 20 ppm. Ideal is considered between 50-120 ppm.
Nitrates: 40 ppm. This is considered really high. Ideal is 10-20 ppm as per Rex Grigg. This begs the question: how the heck are his Ghost Shrimp doing so well with nitrates so high??
Phosphates: 5 ppm. Ideal is 1.0-2.0 ppm as per Rex Grigg

For the 22-23 degree celcius 20 gallon tank.
PH: 7.0
GH: 60 ppm
KH: 30 ppm
Nitrates: 40 ppm - Incredible that he has had no ghost shrimp deaths in over a year.
Phosphates: 5 ppm

His water parameters are less than ideal but his java moss is growing like a weed, his guppies are breeding like rabbits, and his ghost shrimp have grown large and are still alive. That has me scratching my head. I think one thing is clear: the lower water temperature may account for why his java moss is doing so well. I think identifying low light plants on the list based on ideal temperature range may be a good idea given that peoples' tanks may vary significantly in terms of water temperature and given that most people are likely going to keep a heater, it may be a good idea for them to know which plants may not be effected by higher temperatures. Just my 2 cents.
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Is permanent algae prevention with a planted tank possible or is it a myth?? Check out the Link Below. The Lost World was designed to answer this question.
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Two very different non-C02, low tech, low maintenance tanks
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:31 PM   #131 (permalink)
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Homer That is not a bad idea. I will have to get into here and update it. Maybe with Java Moss you must have everything NOT ideal for it to grow.Thanks Homer, it will help tremendously.
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Old 04-16-2008, 01:19 AM   #132 (permalink)
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Homer That is not a bad idea. I will have to get into here and update it. Maybe with Java Moss you must have everything NOT ideal for it to grow.Thanks Homer, it will help tremendously.
You're are welcome James, and you are probably right. I forgot to mention that he told me that he does 1/3 water changes every week. Also, what is interesting is that we use the same tap water and Edward(a moderator at APC) was kind enough to point out to me that other than calcium levels being at less than ideal levels for plant growth, the tap water makeup(with respect to nutrients was pretty good). FWIW, here is a link showing my city's tap water parameter breakdown.
http://winnipeg.ca/waterandwaste/wat...s/Winnipeg.stm

I don't have a calcium test kit as I would have been interested in testing his water sample's calcium level. He claims not to dose any extra calcium and even told me that he removes the ghost shrimp molted skins/castings. So, what is puzzling is that if the tap water has less than ideal levels of calcium and he is removing the ghost shrimp skin molts which if left would add calcium to the water and he is not dosing calicum, how or why are his Ghost Shrimp doing well and how have they managed to survive in water with sublevels of calicum. He is only using plain aquarium gravel so there is no calcium being leached from the substrate that would account for this. For me, it is a real mystery. I have never had much luck with ghost shrimp and even purchased them from the same store as him. And I was adding calicum sulphate to the water. Again, it looks like temperature may partly account for this. The tank where my Ghost Shrimp kicked the bucket and my java moss turned brown and died was averaging about 30 degrees celcius.
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Old 04-16-2008, 02:12 AM   #133 (permalink)
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Ghost shrimp tend to do best at lower temperatures. Maybe in me researching more with Java Moss I will research with the Ghost Shrimp! His tank must be SUPREMELY healthy if they can live in 40ppm NO3 levels. I couldnt even keep my Ghost Shrimp alive in 5ppm NO3. As far as the calcium I am sure they molt, and especially in a planted aquaria, finding ALL the molts in the tank is somewhat impossible. Some shrimp hoard theirs and eat it later and somethings it gets stuck in the plants and hardscape. That is just my thoughts though.
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Old 04-22-2008, 05:05 PM   #134 (permalink)
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Well I have the list printed out and have a cover for it so I have it looking nice. Once I get the chance today I will look through and base things on temperature, Fertilization(including CO2) Needs, and aquarium placement. Thanks you guys.
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Old 04-23-2008, 02:52 AM   #135 (permalink)
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Okay this list is going to be turned into an actual article . So here is the first part of the Table of Contents I have created so far.

Prologue
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Plants And Their Purpose In Low Light Aquaria
-Brief Plant Anatomy
_a-Roots
_b-Tuber
_c-Rhizome
_d-Petiole
_e-Leaf
Lighting For A Low Light Tank
-Types of Bulbs
_a-Incandescent
_b-Compact Flourescent
_c-Spiral Compact Flourescents
_d-Strip Flourescent
-Kelvin Rating
-Wattage
Substrate
-Plain Gravel
-Flourite
-Eco-Complete
-Sand
-Layered Substrate

The next parts will be fertilization and CO2 and then getting into the different plants. Now let me state now that this will all be based on 10g tanks. Now you will have to do the math to figure what is best for you(although I will throw in examples for larger tanks).
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