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#1 (permalink) |
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Custom User
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Which would you choose for 110 X-High?
Objective: low to mid tech, no CO2 (but I might give in). No dosing except for tabs. Numerous schooling fish.
Tank dimensions: 48 x 18 x 30"H Layout: central hill scape, open sand. Like Scolley's Son of Kahuna but more sand on the sides, tighter hill. Only the hill planted. Undecided earthy substrate on hill, most likely not inert. Low and mid light plants, Juncus repens, hygro, L. arcuata, balansae and various other crypts, Microsorum, Bolbitis, fontinalis, small spots of Eleocharis geniculata. Options: A) 2 x 54w T5HO from strip light, 2nd and 3rd 54w T5HO for optional mid-day bursts. -Pros: More bulbs = more options, can meet the needs for low light/no dosing. -Cons: Will waste light on bare sand (see layout above). Strip light curse>possible difficulty lighting front and back of tank at the same time. B) 150w MH pendant -Pros: Centered> won't waste light on sand. Should put a uniform spot over the hill and then some. -Cons: No options. High intensity, possibly too much light for the objective? Tank has center brace, might diffuse too much light and cast a shadow? Also, to Tom or anyone who has the fishneedit MH pendant, have you tried the 8000k bulb or just the 67?
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Looking for stones |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Enthusiast
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You have my tank right there and I must say it's an excellent tank. I love tall tanks and this one is my favorite! The center brace really doesn't bother me too much though planting is a pain in the butt because I'm too short to reach even halfway to the bottom.
I would probably have to say go with the T5HOs. I love metal halides because they really penetrate the water and have that shimmer, but it'd be way way too much light for a low tech tank. You would have algae everywhere and your plants would need a lot of dosing and co2 to keep up. For low tech, I had great success in my tank without CO2. If I hadn't eventually wanted faster growth and higher lighting, it wouldn't have been a problem. You could always do something funky to spot like the hill, like get two low watt 48 inch bulbs and get a shorter bulb to just shine over the hill.
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110 Tall in progress! http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/tank-journals-photo-album/49888-110-tall-photo-journal-56k-update.html |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Custom User
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To be honest, I've never owned MH on anything, so I was hoping it might not be as intense as I think. I think the brace is going to be a problem there anyway, after seeing a few more pics of MH over braced tanks, I can't tell if shadowing in the tank is a huge issue, but there's the streak shadows coming down at two angles from the brace. I don't know if that's more of an 'in-pictures' thing or real life as well, but it's super ugly.
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Custom User
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Quote:
Thanks for your ideas and opinions, by the way!
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Looking for stones |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Enthusiast
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This sounds like it's going to be beautiful when it's finished! Be sure to keep us posted with some pictures as you go
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110 Tall in progress! http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/tank-journals-photo-album/49888-110-tall-photo-journal-56k-update.html |
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#7 (permalink) |
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chillll.......... ;)
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I'd go with the MH. It would NOT be too much light, as thats a lot of water, and you could centralize it on the center mound. Think of how cool it'd look if the sand around the edges was a bit dark! And if you're going open top, you could always raise it up a little if you notice the light is a little too strong. I'd hang it at say 12" above the surface of the water. The cross brace would not cause you any problems at that height, and you'd get nice, steady, controllable growth.
You might want to go with some sort of DIY CO2 if not full pressurized... Excel could also do the trick well. With the fishload you seem to be wanting, I don't think dosing of N or P will be necessary. Maybe a bit of K and micros. I have not had experience with the fishneedit 8000K, but I absolutely cannot say enough good things about the ADA 8000K bulb, it's literally like the perfect bulb. So my vote is for MH 100% |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Fresh Fish Freak
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My vote is for T5HO.
![]() I think you'll end up needing a chiller if you go with MH, Jaide. There's actually a few on Craigslist right now, though.
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Laura Lee; 29gal, 46gal,and 90gal FW planted in progress- see my journal at http://forums.tfhmagazine.com/viewto...p?f=82&t=23207
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#10 (permalink) |
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Algae Grower
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after many days of reading and absolutely no experience I've decided to go with T5HO on my 90g 48x18x25. If you're interested I can give you the link for the fixture. non aquatic but I'll have a glass top. 124$ with individual 95% reflectors. I believe only one ballast for the 4 bulb so it will probably need some custom wiring for bursts. it is a good ballast that gets you the three years from the bulbs instead of two. no idea if the 6 bulb goes 3 and 3 or how...
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#12 (permalink) |
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Plant novice
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If you go with T5, you may want to consider going with a 36 inch fixture so that the outer 6 inches of sand is dark. Maybe even a 24 incher. If you using retrofits, you could mix a 36 and 24. It sounds like you'll want the full fixture though and mount it over the tank.
Problem I see is that the 4 bulb 36 inch catalina is $250 while the 4 bulb 48 inch is $150.
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John |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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chillll.......... ;)
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Quote:
![]() Metal halides really do not create as much heat as people think they do. The only time people run into heat issues is when reefers use them. They have them hanging less than 6" off the surface (we use them at 10"+), and they usually use more than twice or even three times as much wattage as we do. When you really get intense heat is when you hit combined wattages of about 400 or 500. The reefers complained about heat and we all assumed it'd translate over to planted tanks. It doesn't I guarantee you, even if you put a 250w over your tank, hanging it at 12" it would not raise the temperature of your tank even one degree... let alone a 150w... Don't be hating on halides just cause you like T5's so much, know how they work before you post negativity about them. Why do you think a large majority of serious reefers still only use MH? And why do you think Amano only uses MH? It's still the best light, maybe not the best light for the money (T5 takes that award), but until T5 gets a little bit more effecient, and I mean a little, MH will still be the superior lighting style. Also, it's easy to get large wattages of MH, all you usually need is one bulb. to get 150w of T5 you'd need around three bulbs, and for 250 about 5... So it's less efficient in that regard. Also, who wants a large fixture spanning the length of the tank when you can have a small little pendant, which really opens up the top of your tank. Oh, and let me know when T5 acquires a shimmering affect, cause it's b-e-a-utiful |
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#15 (permalink) |
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I'm McLovin' It
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The 8000k fishneedit bulb is a nice color - I have one. You won't need a chiller if it is open top (I have a 70w MH on a little 12g tank with no chiller and temp is only high 70s). Maybe a computer fan.
Having to center the MH worries me a lot. The most intense part of the light released will be right over the center brace and will cast an obvious shadow. Given the two proposed options, I'd go for t5 over 150w MH. *BUT* Two things I'd consider instead are: (1). 2x 70w HQIs spaced about 8" apart in a single fixture suspended over the center of the tank. This will give all the benefits of MH but will get rid of the nasty shadow. Should cost about $200 if you DIY it. I posted a thread about a real easy DIY Worklight, two of which would be great for this purpose (search to find it) - just fashion some kind of ADA-solar-style curved sheet aluminum housing for them like. (2). 2-4x Centered 24" or 36" T5s if you want the shadowed corners. |
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