Eclipse System 3 Hacks

[jbarone]

Hey Guys,

I'm looking into either overdriving my eclipse system 3 light fixture, replacing it with another higher wattage light fixture, or adding some screw in CP fixtures to the hood. Do any of you have any experience in this department?

If I don't heard anything, I guess I'll proceed into this territory with an open mind and shallow pocketbook. Thanks!

[jbarone]

So, I've done a little more research on the kits over there at AHSupplyCompact Fluorescent Lighting Kits and looked at this 1x 13w kit. It looks like it just might fit, but I'm at work and can't take a look at the measurements. I'd prefer not to have to modify anything too much.

what do you guys think? It would double my wattage---is it worth it for a little 3g tank?

[AlGee]

Hey. I just bought the 2x 13w kit to put into my eclipse 15 gallon. The measurements for one bulb and socket is about 1-1/8" x 1-3/8" x 7-1/2".

[jbarone]

Man, 36 people viewing and no new posts in two days? Watts up?
Let's get this forum rollin!

[jbarone]

Ok, so I cracked open my hood and took a look at the guts. Here's what I found




So, my question is...what is that big heavy black thing all the way off to the side? Some kind of ballast? Also, is it possible to overdrive these lights, or should I just buy something from AHSupply? Think it'll melt the fixture? I'd love some advice from y'all.

[AlGee]

for my eclipse, the ballast was located outside of the whole hood; it was part of the plug. so if you don't have a big cube anywhere else then that should be the ballast. that tiny bulb wrapped in blue rubber is the starter. you won't need either if you are gonna retrofit with one of those 13w compact fluorescents. right now i have one 15w regular with two 13w compacts. before that, i retrofitted my hood to have two 15w, and the heat yellowed the white plastic beneath the bulbs. also melted it a little bit on the other side around the wires. but no big deal, really. you can always buy a replacement. sorry i don't know anything about overdriving. if you do get the ah supply stuff and need help wiring i will help you out

[Justintoxicated]

If you figure this out please let us know. I'm interested in modifying mine as well.

[Justintoxicated]

Hell I am willing to remove the integrated filter as well to fit a better light... And pickup another zoomeds 501. That would make an awesome Nano Tank! And Puff Daddy would be happy too.

BTW I was looking under the hood and noticed my plastic cover over the light has already started to melt from the stock light LOL. Oh well...

[Justintoxicated]

Any updates? I'm considering that 13 watt kit as well! But I'm afraid that ir might be too much power without using DIY CO2 which would require changing the biowheel filter?

I'm thinking the biowheel could be replaced with a sponge which would also reduce surface agitaion (except for the water going through the filter).

Also these new lights would need some kinda venting system maybe a small fan or would drilled holes be enough?

Anyone?

[AlGee]

Hey. I took out my biowheel a long time ago, because I read it was better for planted tanks. Even before I started DIY CO2. I just put a small pad of filter floss in that compartment, mainly to reduce noise. Of course, the floss would want to slip through so I just put a piece of lego in there to block it. A sponge would work too.

I don't think a 13w would get too much hotter than the original setup. You could just prop up the lid and/or have a small computer fan blowing in or something. Just do it without drilling any holes and observe how hot it gets for a while at first. Then you can determine what you need to do later.

Mine gets REALLY hot during the summer. But I went from 15w to 30w and now to 41w. Raises the temp 5-10 degrees in a day. I may cut out a hole and install a computer fan later. But since it's winter, the heat warms up the water like a heater so I'll just leave it alone for now

BTW, I think 4.3w is an awful lot to not have any CO2

[Justintoxicated]

So DIY will work if I remove the Bio Wheel? Te filter does not cyle the water fast enough to outgas all the CO2?

Even with the stock unit my tank has reachin almost 90 deg (poor dwarf puffer) unless I pu a fan blowing across the top (dropped it to about 86). It was reaching well over 100 deg ambient for a while, al my fish suffered...



no that it is November , the temps in the tank are stull in the 80's with no heater using the stock light...

[AlGee]

I'm not quite sure, really. I'm not sure how much CO2 I'm getting. I did get noticeable growth compared to when I didn't have any, though. So even if I'm losing a lot, I'm still getting enough. All done sans biowheel, so I can't tell you if having the wheel on makes much difference. I put my CO2 tube into the filter intake, and there is a lot of movement from the outflow of the unit into the filter bed. Don't know how much I'm losing there. Only concern I have is when my water line drops due to evaporation and is way below the spout, causing lots of splashing. Simple topping off is no big deal.

I was thinking what you could also do is make a support frame to lift the whole hood off the tank a few inches. This would lessen the intensity of the light and provide some ventilation. You could also use a couple of computer fans as part of the structure! The only problem then is the output flow hitting the water below with a lot of splashing. You could remedy this by making a slide for the water.

[Justintoxicated]

I'm thinking of drilling a bunch of holes in the hood, and upgrading the lighting and adding a computer fan, maybe one of those all mount Power Supplys from radioshack would run it. Computer fans are after all 12V...

But with all this effort it seems like I may be better off just getting another 10gallon tank and taking down the 3 gallon. Unless I ca come up with a viable ventilation system to keep the temps down.

[AlGee]

yeah go for the 10 so you can have more plants