New method(?) to start up an algae free tank without any water changes or work(really

[mistergreen]

make sure to keep the environment really humid. The transition from submerged to emersed is tougher. Crypts are hardier than you think. I had more problems with anubias melting.

[plantbrain]

I'd just do the DSM, then once you fill, you can use the Excel if you wish, probably will not need it though.

Do this instead: Slowly fill the tank, as long as you have decent circulation, enough floating leaves etc, then you are fine doing it that way

These plants are pretty easy to care for and transitions are pretty easy for them. Think about it, most wetland plants all come from oplaces that are flooded part of the year and thus live below the water,then the water recedes...........then tey start to flower and are left high and dry.

Swords and Crypts both are like this and are stream/river plants with generally higher current. Might need large root structures for daughter plant runners, phyical stress due to current, storage of reserves, and of course when there is no more water and all the nutrients and water MUST come from the sediments.

It does not imply they prefer root uptake, it means they have no other choice.

We can grow both species in flourite and in nutrient rich clay and have similar rates of growth submersed.

You have both nutrients in the water column and the sediment, so you have plenty of wiggle room there. The rest is CO2/light balancing, as well as fish load. SAE's, Amano shrimp etc, might not go well with the betta.
So think about at.

Regards,
Tom Barr

[Homer_Simpson]

Originally Posted by plantbrain

I'd just do the DSM, then once you fill, you can use the Excel if you wish, probably will not need it though.

Do this instead: Slowly fill the tank, as long as you have decent circulation, enough floating leaves etc, then you are fine doing it that way

These plants are pretty easy to care for and transitions are pretty easy for them. Think about it, most wetland plants all come from oplaces that are flooded part of the year and thus live below the water,then the water recedes...........then tey start to flower and are left high and dry.

Swords and Crypts both are like this and are stream/river plants with generally higher current. Might need large root structures for daughter plant runners, phyical stress due to current, storage of reserves, and of course when there is no more water and all the nutrients and water MUST come from the sediments.

It does not imply they prefer root uptake, it means they have no other choice.

We can grow both species in flourite and in nutrient rich clay and have similar rates of growth submersed.

You have both nutrients in the water column and the sediment, so you have plenty of wiggle room there. The rest is CO2/light balancing, as well as fish load. SAE's, Amano shrimp etc, might not go well with the betta.
So think about at.

Regards,
Tom Barr

Many thanks as always Tom. The point about Amano Shrimp is well taken. Given all the controversy about endless spikes with ADA AS II, I figured a Betta would do better in a much smaller tank with ADA AS II where ammonia spikes may become more of an issue. With such a low plant load(A crypt and one or two anubias), I am not confident that the plants will sufficiently uptake the ammonia, especially if there is a constant leach of ammonia from the substrate. Bettas are generally more tolerant of ammonia spikes than Amano Shrimp. However, I thoroughly test the water once the tank is set up and add Amano Shrimp, once the Ammonia levels hit zero.

[ofird]

Sorry for bumping this, but i just finished reading and it was so interesting that I want to use it in my new Low Tech setup (220 liters)

I am just not sure HC is suited for Low-Tech-Excel tanks...

So just to be sure of this method:

1) Can I use HC or better stick to low-tech grass, like Marsilea Minuta?
2) Can this method be used with 1 inch of natural substrate (humus, peat, etc) and 2 inches of Eco-Complete on top?
3) Can I plant additional plants in the dry era, such as crypts, anubias, java fern (mainly low-tech suited plants)?

Ragards,
O

[MedRed]

I'm trying this for the first time and I have a couple of questions.

1) what is the best lighting duration? I want optimal growth without cooking the plants (especially since I'm using metal halide).

2) should i completely seal the top of the tank in saran wrap or should I allow some air exchange?

[Yiannis]

Hello guys,

I believe in this method but surely I am doing something wrong. I have a 40L tank with normal pot soil spraid with dilute macro and micro nutrients. A 36W compact fluerescent lamp for 12 hours per day and a glass lid to keep things humid. I tried to grow Eleocharis Parvula (Dwarf hairgrass) but it deteriorated, went brown and grew white fungi. I stopped the method and flooded the tank to prevent the plant for further deterioration but this is not the point. I thought I did everything right with the exception of the pot soil and the high temperatures in the country. So I ask:

1. Could it be that my substrate didn't have the nutrients my plants needed even though a dosed NPK, Iron and micronutrients as a dilute solution in the substrate?

2. The temperatures in Cyprus (mediteranian) are now rising and with the greenhouse effect created in the tank the temperature of the tank might have gone a bit too high for the plants to survive?

Thanks in advance

[Down_Shift]

My 60P (20g) is Algae free. 25 cardinals, a few guppies and oto.
RO/DI water, 4x24w t5HO, 2x XP3's, Pressurized CO2.

I don't do anything other than feed my fish and top off the tank. I only do a 30% WC every 3 months.

Same with my other 2 nano tanks. I haven't lost any stock for over 6 months now. No Cardinal loss for a year.

I dunno what's the deal with this.. People say I'm crazy to not be doing WC's more often.. but I figured if nothing is wrong.. why mess with the ecosystem of the tank

[plantbrain]

Originally Posted by ofird

Sorry for bumping this, but i just finished reading and it was so interesting that I want to use it in my new Low Tech setup (220 liters)

I am just not sure HC is suited for Low-Tech-Excel tanks...

So just to be sure of this method:

1) Can I use HC or better stick to low-tech grass, like Marsilea Minuta?
2) Can this method be used with 1 inch of natural substrate (humus, peat, etc) and 2 inches of Eco-Complete on top?
3) Can I plant additional plants in the dry era, such as crypts, anubias, java fern (mainly low-tech suited plants)?

Ragards,
O

Excel and Hc work well together.
Mineralized Soil or ADA AS might work better
Yes,

Regards,
Tom barr

[plantbrain]

Fungi means you likely have too much humidity.
Same issue with emergent Crypt growers etc........look at how they grow etc.

If you exchange the water nutrient solution once every 1-2 weeks, the tank should do well. But if you use ADA As or MS, then no such need........

Also, HC is not a high light demanding plant.
I wish folks would realize this and get over the HLD.
Use say 2 x 24 W or 2x 20 W on a 20 Gal tank(60cm long).

That's all you need.
It will grow fine and form a nice a dense carpet.

Regards,
Tom Barr