VICTOR and DUAL STAGE REGULATOR PIMP CLUB (Helpful Information Links are on Page 1)

[Left C]

QUOTE: "The most reliable way to dose CO2 is through the use of pressurized cylinders and two stages of pressure regulation."

from: Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine » Volume VIII » October 2009 » Freshwater Aquariums: How to Dose a Plant Tank, Part 1: Carbon Dioxide
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/10/freshwater

[herns]

Originally Posted by S&KGray

Hi LeftC,

My SGT500 with chrome CGA 320 nut/nipple came in on Saturday.

Thats a very good looking SGT series.

[babakaty]

Originally Posted by Left C

Has anyone found any deals on regulators, needle/metering valves and solenoids lately?

Just picked up a VTS-253A-1993 off eBay for 50 bucks....

[Left C]

Originally Posted by babakaty

Just picked up a VTS-253A-1993 off eBay for 50 bucks....

I'm sure that you will really like that regulator. The VTS250/VTS253 dual stage models are great for our use. The "1993" models are chrome plated and look great. When you turn the adjustment knob you can really feel the precision. I hope some more of those regulator show up for sale.

[babakaty]

I'm looking forward to getting it and using it. I'm planning on putting together a double setup for the two Rex-type reactors on my 90 gal. Sure no deals on needle valves lately, though. I can't believe what some of them go for!

[Left C]

Originally Posted by babakaty

I'm looking forward to getting it and using it. I'm planning on putting together a double setup for the two Rex-type reactors on my 90 gal. Sure no deals on needle valves lately, though. I can't believe what some of them go for!

I look for Swagelok, Whitey, Nupro or Parker 1/8" male or female NPT metering valves. There was an Ideal valve on there recently. I just looked and there are plenty with the 1/4" tube fittings. The low and medium flow models will work if you either get reducing adapters for your 1/8" NPT solenoid and JBJ bubble counter. 1/4" NPT solenoids are available too. Swagelok has adapters to turn the tubing fittings to male or female NPT. These are the male and female stainless steel tubing to NPT adapters. They have brass adapters too.

[babakaty]

I look for the same things, and sometimes there are great deals to be had (just bought a couple brand-new Parker solenoids for 12 bucks ea.) but eBay is kinda like Pandora's box; you never know what you're gonna find, or when, or if!

[Left C]

Originally Posted by babakaty

I look for the same things, and sometimes there are great deals to be had (just bought a couple brand-new Parker solenoids for 12 bucks ea.) but eBay is kinda like Pandora's box; you never know what you're gonna find, or when, or if!

No ... It's not like Pandora's box.

"ebaY is like a box of chocolates. You never know what you're gonna to get."

[babakaty]

Seriously though Left C, the addictive power of pressurized pneumatic equipment is really quite frightening. I'm starting to think I'm turning into a junkie!

[Left C]

I know what you mean.

"If your thing is gone and you wanna ride on; dual stage.
Don't forget this fact, you can't get it back; dual stage.
She don't lie, she don't lie, she don't lie; dual stage.

She don't lie, she don't lie, she don't lie; dual stage."

[herns]

Originally Posted by Left C

I know what you mean.

"If your thing is gone and you wanna ride on; dual stage.
Don't forget this fact, you can't get it back; dual stage.
She don't lie, she don't lie, she don't lie; dual stage.

She don't lie, she don't lie, she don't lie; dual stage."

LOL!:hih i: :h ihi:

[smoq]

I totally forgot to post that here, so here it is FYI

REGULATOR ASSEMBLY

Few forwarding words:
So many people on this forum helped me getting to the point I am right now (regarding planted tanks of course) so I felt obligated to give back to this fantastic community somehow… I know it was done many times before, but maybe my write-up help somebody who wants to assemble a Co2 regulator for a planted tank. I’d like to thank LeftC especially, as he helped me a lot with my regulator.

This DYI write-up is based on my own observations and experience as well as advices from other members on this forum. I could be wrong on some things so feel free to correct me or suggest better method of assembling a CO2 regulator. And one more thing, watch and correct my English please, I appreciate that.

You need the following things to assemble a regulator for your plant needs:
- CO2 regulator, dual stage will be your best bet as this type lets you avoid the “end of tank dump” effect
- Needle valve to control the flow of bubbles
- Optional bubble counter, inline or JBJ style
- CO2 resistant tubing like polyurethane one
- Solenoid valve and timer (you don’t need a constant CO2 flow, plants don’t use CO2 when lights are off)
- Check valve to prevent water back siphoning from the tank (brass check valves are the best ones(
- NPT fittings needed to connect everything together
- Teflon tape or non-toxic plumbing paste to seal connections
- A pair of good-quality pliers to put everything together

So here is what I used for my regulator (your choices may be different and may require different fittings, so please post on this thread with any questions, either I or more experienced people will be happy to help you)


Mine setup consist of:
-Matheson Dual stage regulator I bought on S&S
-Swagelok metering valve
-Clippard solenoid valve
-clippard brass check valves with co2 tubing barb fittings

First thing you need to do is to connect a power cord to the solenoid. You can buy one on clippard site but I think they are too expensive and don’t tell me you don’t have one computer power cord just lying around somewhere. It’s quite easy to do, you just remove the plastic cover from your solenoid and connect wires from your cord to the solenoid (typically white, black and green for ground).
Clippard solenoid valve comes with red LED that turns on when the valve is open.

Next, take your regulator and take a good look at it There’s a low pressure knob that basically regulates the flow thru the regulator, but it’s very imprecise as for aquarium purposes, that’s why you need metering valve in your setup. Next there is a CGA 320 fitting that goes to the co2 cylinder. The last one is a female ¼ NPT fitting, that’s where the solenoid valve should be connected.


Now, it all depends if you want to use JBJ style bubble counter or not.
-if you do, you have to use an elbow fitting, because the bubble counter needs to be in upright position. The simplest way is to buy a male 1/4 NPT to male 1/8 NPT reduction elbow , or at least a male ¼ NPT to female 1/8 NPT reduction bushing and male 1/8 NPT elbow fitting.
It was PITA to find those in my area, so I needed to use three parts- male ¼ NPT to female 1/8 NPT reduction bushing, male 1/8 NPT to female 1/8 NPT 90 elbow fitting and 1/8 NPT nipple “close”. Anyway, see the picture below, I hope that will clear your mind a little bit.
I think most of you will use male ¼ NPT to female 1/8 NPT reduction bushing and male 1/8 NPT elbow fitting. First screw in the reduction to the regulator head using pliers or, better, a combination wrench from your mechanic’s tool set. I was too lazy to get one from my car so I used pliers (those scratches on the fitting heads are from the pliers). Put a generous amount of plumbing paste on the thread or use Teflon tape instead. Next, screw the reduction and elbow together and then screw in solenoid valve. Use paste or Teflon tape on all threads to prevent leaks. If you’ll find assembling those parts in another order easier for you, go for it. It doesn’t really matter how you screw things
-if you are not planning to use any bubble counter or prefer an inline one, you don’t really need the 90 elbow, you can use straight male 1/4 NPT to male 1/8 NPT reduction instead.

Next thing to do is assemble metering valve parts and connect it to the solenoid valve, right where it belongs Swagelok metering valves, like one in my setup, are known for outstanding performance and being very precise. I tend to agree with that, however, there are other needle valves on the market recommended by fellow aquarists, that you can use. I cannot comment on other brands as I haven’t used any other, but I recommend asking other people on this forum, they help you for sure.
Swagelok metering valves come with special fittings and to connect it to the rest of your regulator, you need a kind of reduction from their thread to male 1/8 NPT (see picture). Anyway, to screw metering valve with solenoid, you need male 1/8 NPT fitting that comes to the solenoid body. The other side of the metering valve is where you connect bubble counter or co2 line. If you’re using JBJ style bubble counter, again you need male 1/8 NPT fitting. If not, you can attach co2 tubing right into the metering valve (again, that’s how it works with Swagelok, IDK about other brands).





The other side of the bubble counter is where you attach co2 tubing that will go to the diffuser/reactor. Don’t forget to use check valve and to connect it close to your regulator. Here’s a picture explaining how to correctly connect tubing to the bubble counter.

First, slide the nut from the bubble counter on the tubing, then the small O-ring, force the tubing into the bubble counter, fill the bubble counter to about 2/3 with water or mineral oil and tighten the nut with the bubble counter body.
Well, that’s about it. Screw your complete regulator setup into co2 cylinder, open the valve on the cylinder and open the low pressure valve in your regulator. Check for any leaks before plugging the solenoid by using a soapy water or windex. Then plug in solenoid, open the metering valve and look for bubbles in the bubble counter. Again, check for leaks, connect your solenoid to a timer and enjoy your pressurized co2 system. And don’t forget to throw out all those 2L soda bottles you tried to hide desperately behind your tank, you’re never going to need them again OK, leave maybe one, just for the future nano-tanks

[Left C]

Excellent!

[S&KGray]

So those Parker solenoids on eBay for about $12 are good for our application even with the stated ambient working temp of 68F?

[Darkblade48]

Originally Posted by S&KGray

So those Parker solenoids on eBay for about $12 are good for our application even with the stated ambient working temp of 68F?

I have been using one with no problems thus far (knock on wood...)