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Old 04-22-2004, 06:42 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Hi,

I'm considering purchasing a 9 watt Turbo Twist UV Sterilizer and an Ehiem ECCO canister filter for my 28 gallon tank. My dilemma is the ECCO 2231 sounds like the right filter for the tank, but the from what I've read about the 9 watt Turbo Twist UV sterilizer it needs a flow rate of between 100-200 gph. The ECCO 2231 is only rated at 80 gph I believe. Is anyone here running this combination?

BTW, I can understand why a UV sterilizer would spec a max flow rate to ensure UV exposure time, but why spec a minimum flow rate?

The ECCO 2233 is spec'd at 127 gph, which would meet the Turbo Twist's spec'd requirements but might be too much for the tank ... especially a planted tank For algae control, the Dennerle system recommends a slow filter with an hourly capacity of 70-100 percent turnover! Even the 2231 would be almost 3 times that. The 2233 would be more than 4.5 times that!

Thoughts anyone?
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Old 04-22-2004, 12:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i don't think you should overly worry about turn over. For UV's i've heard the slower the better... If the 2231is rater for over 30 gallons get that one and hook it up to the UV
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Old 04-22-2004, 02:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Wow! I'm thinking of doing the same thing for my 29 gallon. Thanks for the post ///ACS330Ci and thanks for the info fisyboy. Should the co2 go in before or after the uv, does it matter?
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Old 04-22-2004, 04:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I doubt it matters if you have a CO2 reactor before or after the UV sterilizer, but I would put it after. Of course the flow rate for the reactor is another matter :? The reactor 1000 calls for 250 gph! That's definitely too much for a 28 or 29 gallon tank.
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Old 04-22-2004, 08:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The more experience I gain, the more I realize all those 'flow-rate' numbers are NOT hard and fast.

My setup should interest you. I have a 2235 running through a DIY reactor, 9 watt TT, and Hydor heater. I originally set up my plumping with the tube going up to the UV, then down through the reactor, then making a 180 and going back up through the heater to the tank.

I now run the plumbing differently. Tubing now makes a 180 (from the 2235) into the top of the reactor, out the reactor to the TT, and then up through the Hydor. In short, I switched the TT from the first unit to the 2nd.

I did this because air tended to collect in my TT. The current wasn't strong enough to blow it out (down to the reactor), and the area where the air collected created narrow passages in the TT, which in turn created flow resistance. You could hear the stress put on my filter. By switching the TT to the lower postion (connected to the tubing leaving the bottom of my reactor), I stopped this problem. Now any/all air collects in my reactor instead. And I can easily release this air via a valve (on the top of my reactor). And now, my eheim is back to being quiet as a mouse.

Oh yeah....and back to your original concerns. The flowrate specs for the TT and the Reactor 1000 are 'optimal' flow rates. Both units would still work (to a lesser degree) if the flow rate was too fast, and (to an equal degree) if the flowrate is 'too' slow. The CO2 bubbling into my reactor never gets a chance to get kicked around (like they always show in the photos) because it is dissolved too quickly. With a 2235 running through all that stuff, my flowrate is probably somewhere around 100 gph (not the 160 the filter could do without all the extra resistance). And since my DIY reactor is a spittin' image of the Reactor 1000, I wouldn't sweat the flowrate stuff.

If this isn't clear, I could post a photo.
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Old 04-22-2004, 09:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unirdna
The flowrate specs for the TT and the Reactor 1000 are 'optimal' flow rates. Both units would still work (to a lesser degree) if the flow rate was too fast, and (to an equal degree) if the flowrate is 'too' slow.
Agreed. Your clarification results would probably be about the same. You might actually nuke a higher percentage of parasites at the low flow rate.

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With a 2235 running through all that stuff, my flowrate is probably somewhere around 100 gph (not the 160 the filter could do without all the extra resistance). And since my DIY reactor is a spittin' image of the Reactor 1000, I wouldn't sweat the flowrate stuff.
Right, I would tend toward a filter with a higher flow rate as all that tech down the line will add backpressure and slow your actual flowrate. Heck, I run a 2026 (250 GPH) on a 25 gal. with no inline tech and with no excess current problems.
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Old 04-22-2004, 11:22 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unirdna
If this isn't clear, I could post a photo.
Makes sense, but a pic would be sweet
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Old 04-22-2004, 11:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///ACS330Ci
Makes sense, but a pic would be sweet
Ohhhhh. OK

This is the current setup. The Turbotwist used to be where the green hose is now (between the ECCO and the reactor).
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Old 04-23-2004, 11:23 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks for the pics!

Do you have a post somewhere explaining the construction of your DIY CO2 reactor? It looks pretty easy to do, but I'm curious on where to get the parts you used and how you made everything leak safe. Especially the vent valve and CO2 tubing connector.
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Old 04-23-2004, 02:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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All pieces are from gravel vacs (siphons) that were collecting dust in my basement. Bottom blue piece is secured with PVC cement. Top piece fits very snug, so it requires no cement. This also allows for me to get into the reactor if need be.

Input line for CO2 and gas release valve were constructed in the same way. Drill a small hole with my Dremmel tool - Slowly test/widen the hole - Stick in air-tubing connector - Finally, seal the thing up with Aqua Seal, Seal Cement (use the 2nd dropdown menu and select 'repair'). There are undoubtedly many products you could use to seal up the hole. I'm a diver, and happen to have lots of this stuff around the house; so that's what I used. It cures in about 2 hours, and dries hard in 24 hours.

I think I went into some detail on page 2 or 3 of my Photo Journal.
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Old 04-28-2004, 08:13 PM   #11 (permalink)
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OK, Ehiem ECCO 2231 and 9 watt Turbo Twist UV Sterilizer on the way
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Old 04-28-2004, 09:00 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I have a 2231 on a 29g and a 2233 on a 30g and they are both fine flow wise.

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Old 05-03-2004, 08:48 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///ACS330Ci
OK, Ehiem ECCO 2231 and 9 watt Turbo Twist UV Sterilizer on the way
Installed them this weekend and the combination is working flawlessly
The ECCO 2231 is the most quiet filter canister I've ever not heard :up:
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Old 06-18-2005, 02:59 AM   #14 (permalink)
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///ACS330Ci - My apologies for not seeing your thread/question sooner. I'm running the same combo that you just bought. Been running it for a year on a 20g, and I couldn't be happier. I'm sure you'll find the same!
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Old 06-23-2007, 04:21 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Default CO2 entry into inline heater/UV sterilizer

Is there a drawback to drill a hole into an inline heater like Hydor 300 or UV sterilizer on the intake loop of a canister filter and instill CO2 there ?
This would save one item on the line which is decreasing the efficacy of the filter...
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