110 Gallon Discus Tank Sump w/eheims & HOTs

[DiabloCanine]

It should survive a nuclear holocaust now. In the middle you can see the plywood brace supporting a sheet of 1/4" plywood. I added 1.5" thickness of plywood and 10 more braces. Off to sleep now, will try to get the tank back on the stand tonight.



You know, Gordo and I were discussing the pros and cons of winged vigilantes. What's your stance?......DC

[SCMurphy]

DC,

Have you thought about using Unions in the piping to make it easier to adjust the plumbing?

[fshfanatic]

DC, I am always amazed with your DIY tasks. You my friend are a true craftsman.

I am trying to figure out how I am going to drill two holes in a 55 that I am getting from a friend for free. I have a wet/dry sump rated to 100gal that I am going to use, as this is going to be a planted brackish tank. I have some serious ideas for this project, but I am lost when it comes to drilling glass and I dont want a "HOB" overflow.

[Betowess]

Whooo! That must have been a drag DC, after all that work. Hopefully it will all go together easier than it came out.

[fox]

That is pretty much what we did 'cept instead of that ply brace we had two adjusting legs which made the bottom wavy. You should have no probs now. We have two canisters, a pro3 and a 2028 with a 40g resting on the base platform now and it is flat as a board.

[DiabloCanine]

Originally Posted by SCMurphy

DC,

Have you thought about using Unions in the piping to make it easier to adjust the plumbing?

I wanted to use unions but decided against it. The tank is sitting 3 inches out from the wall more than it did already, figured unions would add another inch. Tank looked pretty good sitting up against the wall, definitely a different look now. I am hoping to hide the equipment that is easily seen with a plant or something. I am hoping it is quite a while before I pull the tank off the stand again.

Originally Posted by fshfanatic

DC, I am always amazed with your DIY tasks. You my friend are a true craftsman.

I am trying to figure out how I am going to drill two holes in a 55 that I am getting from a friend for free. I have a wet/dry sump rated to 100gal that I am going to use, as this is going to be a planted brackish tank. I have some serious ideas for this project, but I am lost when it comes to drilling glass and I dont want a "HOB" overflow.

You have to start from somewhere my friend. How lost were you the first time you worked with acrylics? Remember then?

Originally Posted by Betowess

Whooo! That must have been a drag DC, after all that work. Hopefully it will all go together easier than it came out.

Was a serious drag, already behind with my other projects due to this brainstorm. It will get together and hopefully planted this weekend......DC

[DiabloCanine]

Originally Posted by fox

That is pretty much what we did 'cept instead of that ply brace we had two adjusting legs which made the bottom wavy. You should have no probs now. We have two canisters, a pro3 and a 2028 with a 40g resting on the base platform now and it is flat as a board.

I have learned a lot of things to consider when I build stands next spring. I want to build three 48x24 stands with built in sumps.....DC

[fshfanatic]

Originally Posted by DiabloCanine

You have to start from somewhere my friend. How lost were you the first time you worked with acrylics? Remember then?

hmm, good point.

[2wheelsx2]

Maybe this isn't one of the questions you are waiting for but...

This is a pretty elaborate setup. From what I understand (from a sump newbie perspective), you have:

Custom sponge filter from Jehmco for bio
2x Magnum HOT for chemical
2x Eheim (2225?) for mechanical?

So the bulk of the sump is just for water volume? I've been considering a sump for some time now for my 125 gallon, but was recently swayed by a wicked deal (basically cost + 10%) for a Fluval FX5, but I still like the idea of a sump, so I want to look at why and how you are using the canisters in that equation.

Sorry, maybe this is obvious, but I just can't see how the whole thing works. Could you maybe show me a simple diagram as to what's doing what, when?

Thanks.

[DiabloCanine]

Originally Posted by 2wheelsx2

Maybe this isn't one of the questions you are waiting for but...

This is a pretty elaborate setup. From what I understand (from a sump newbie perspective), you have:

Custom sponge filter from Jehmco for bio
2x Magnum HOT for chemical
2x Eheim (2225?) for mechanical?

So the bulk of the sump is just for water volume? I've been considering a sump for some time now for my 125 gallon, but was recently swayed by a wicked deal (basically cost + 10%) for a Fluval FX5, but I still like the idea of a sump, so I want to look at why and how you are using the canisters in that equation.

Sorry, maybe this is obvious, but I just can't see how the whole thing works. Could you maybe show me a simple diagram as to what's doing what, when?

Thanks.

The powered sponge filter is no longer in this setup. The 2215s will do mechanical and bio, the HOTs will do chemical and bio. The 2215s pull from the bottom, the sump overflow skims the top, and the HOTs pull from the sump. All the equipment (heaters, UV, CO2, etc.) still resides in the sump. I will try to do a diagram......DC

[2wheelsx2]

Originally Posted by DiabloCanine

The powered sponge filter is no longer in this setup. The 2215s will do mechanical and bio, the HOTs will do chemical and bio. The 2215s pull from the bottom, the sump overflow skims the top, and the HOTs pull from the sump. All the equipment (heaters, UV, CO2, etc.) still resides in the sump. I will try to do a diagram......DC

Ah....I see. A diagram would be great.

[Betowess]

It sounds like quite a bit of filtration. Will this allow you to not have to clean the various filters as often? I have read Discus require an extra clean environ, but I've never kept them.

[crazy loaches]

Originally Posted by DiabloCanine

This really looks like you somehow captured he11 in a tank! Just needs a trident proped up somewhere. LOL!

Great work and good luck with the new setup.

[DiabloCanine]

Originally Posted by Betowess

It sounds like quite a bit of filtration. Will this allow you to not have to clean the various filters as often? I have read Discus require an extra clean environ, but I've never kept them.

I do not know how long the eheims can go yet, I cleaned the sump and HOTs once a month and will probably continue that schedule. I run a Vortex Diatom XL every week or so in this tank. Discus do need pristine water, the Heckels going in here were swimming in the amazon not too long ago, woohoo. It is a 110 gallon tank, I have and will continue changing about 180 gallons of 100% RO water a week.

Originally Posted by crazy loaches

This really looks like you somehow captured he11 in a tank! Just needs a trident proped up somewhere. LOL!

Great work and good luck with the new setup.

Hmmm, now that you mention it. Will probably look a lot different when planted though. I am trying to simulate the natural root structure enviroment with the Manzanita wood........DC

[DiabloCanine]

The stand is back together, tank is on, substrate and plants are in. Here are some current pics:

eheims will continue to run during water changes, the inlet bulkheads remain underwater.



Water level in sump during water change, when water reaches this level I shut the sump pump off.



Main tanks drains down to this level then the siphon breaks on the water changer, around 60 gallons drained between sump and main tank.



Sump level when water change is completed with sump pump off.



Sump level when water change is complete with sump pump on.



Left side of stand from the front.



Different angle.



Right side of stand from the front.



Different angle.



Old



New



Current equipment list:

Dual eheim 2215 cannister filters
Dual magnum HOT filters
MagDrive 7 sump pump
Cyberpower UPS (powers sump pump)
Milwaukee MA957 CO2 regulator
Milwaukee SMS122 PH controller
5 lb CO2 cylinder
Icecap 660 ballast
Co2 Reactor 200 With Rio Pump
Coral Life turbo twist UV sterilizer (see my DIY link)
Jager 250 watt heater
Dual Theo 400 watt heaters
JEHMCO electronic temperature controller
Rainbow Lifeguard temperature alarm
Dual Intermatic heavy duty digital timers (control main tank light & UV light)
Intermatic digital timer (controls LED moon lights)
Various power distribution equipment and accessories
Various sizes of PVC

Off to RMCs to catch fish, woohoo.......DC