semi-DIY Lighting taking apart a light - Started project post #43~! (56k)

[Indignation]

I don't know the spectrum, but I've used the giesemann aqua flora (pink) and current freshwater (also pink) bulbs with good results. I took a look at the hagen bulb in petsmart today, and it has planted tanks listed on the front. I think it will be fine.

As for cutting the reflectors, I don't see why it wouldn't work. It might not give you the same output as the high end SLRs, but if you use all 4 it should be okay.

[sewingalot]

Considering the light is etched and one of the clips are broken from day one, I went ahead and decided to order the SLRs. Now just to come up with the funds to do so. I have enough wood to make the frame from a canopy I decided not to make. So perhaps the best thing would be to start there.

[sewingalot]

Why didn't anyone tell me 1 x 3 aren't really 1" x 3"? Why do they do this? I didn't know it could be off by 1/4 of an inch or more. I have to get more boards now......

[dbosman@msu.edu]

Because "everyone" knows wood is sold in nominal dimensions.

That really is the reason and it stinks as you can't depend on 1 by what ever being consistent even from the same big box store. They purchase from all over the world and take what ever they can get at the lowest price for the particular description. We used to be able to depend on specific lumber yards to be consistent, but the big box stores have put a lot of smaller lumber dealers out of business. I have to drive thirty miles one way to purchase half butt cabinet grade wood.

[sewingalot]

Originally Posted by dbosman@msu.edu

Because "everyone" but you knows wood is sold in nominal dimensions.

I corrected your quote for you. What's really sad is my dear husband stood there, trying to explain this to me and I didn't listen. I guess I am used to buying a yard of fabric and actually getting a few inches more, not less.

Anyway, I purchased the SLRs, the right dimension of wood, and now I am ready to start.

[Strick]

Originally Posted by sewingalot

I corrected your quote for you. What's really sad is my dear husband stood there, trying to explain this to me and I didn't listen. I guess I am used to buying a yard of fabric and actually getting a few inches more, not less.

Anyway, I purchased the SLRs, the right dimension of wood, and now I am ready to start.

The reason a 2x4 (for example) is called a 2x4 is that it's cut to exactly 2 inches x 4 inches before it's kiln-dried, which causes it to shrink to about 1.75" x 3.5".

A stupid way to do it, I'll agree.

Keep us posted!

[Hoppy]

Originally Posted by Strick

The reason a 2x4 (for example) is called a 2x4 is that it's cut to exactly 2 inches x 4 inches before it's kiln-dried, which causes it to shrink to about 1.75" x 3.5".

A stupid way to do it, I'll agree.

Keep us posted!

Not quite correct. Years ago a 2 x 4 was 2" x 4", whether rough or planed. Then they began planing the rough 2 x 4 and it became about 1 7/8 x 3 7/8. But, the building trades researchers discovered that a house was strong enough when those were only 1 1/2 x 3 1/2, which is currently what they aim at when making them. Look for that to become 1 1/4 x 3 1/4 before long. But, that won't bother you because those boards will be all knots, bark inclusions, cracks, and sap, so you wouldn't want them anyway. When you finally give in and decide to get some, there will be no more usable trees left, so they will cost you $10 for an 8 footer. Welcome to the future!

[sewingalot]

Wow. I never knew I would learn so much on this project. It's amazing how much a piece of wood can differ from store to store. Home Depot was worse, so I gave up and bought some plywood and decided to paint it black. I wanted pretty, stainable wood, but the sizing would not co-operate with my budget. I got the top painted and it looks pretty snazzy.

I came home to find out I have a present! Look what my husband bought me:

Here's my issue, there are holes in each end of the lighting for the clips, but the screws are small and have a nut on the bottom. How do I mount this to the board? Am I missing something, or do I simply drill a hole? And if so, where and how many do I need? They are pretty light weight. Help!

By the way, he bought the TEK2 here: http://www.aquacave.com/tek2-t5-refl...ply-1852.html# Are they decent? Look shiny to me.

[airborne_r6]

Originally Posted by sewingalot

Wow. I never knew I would learn so much on this project. It's amazing how much a piece of wood can differ from store to store. Home Depot was worse, so I gave up and bought some plywood and decided to paint it black. I wanted pretty, stainable wood, but the sizing would not co-operate with my budget. I got the top painted and it looks pretty snazzy.

I came home to find out I have a present! Look what my husband bought me:

Here's my issue, there are holes in each end of the lighting for the clips, but the screws are small and have a nut on the bottom. How do I mount this to the board? Am I missing something, or do I simply drill a hole? And if so, where and how many do I need? They are pretty light weight. Help!

By the way, he bought the TEK2 here: http://www.aquacave.com/tek2-t5-refl...ply-1852.html# Are they decent? Look shiny to me.

Awesome present!! I am not totally sure if I understand your question though, what clips are you trying to attach to the board. You should be able to just buy some small screws that will hold the clip to the board. If you are not sure what to buy, take the clips and whatever else you need to attach to the board to a local hardware store, not Home Depot or Lowes, but something like Ace, and ask for some help. Explain to them what you are doing, show them the clips and whatever else you can, and ask what they recommend.

[sewingalot]

Hmmm. Let me try this again. I suck at this wood working terminology, lol.

There are holes on each side that will hold the clip in place. The machine screw provided also has a nut and is only 1/4" long, so there isn't much left (really nothing) to put into the board.

Other than that, there is no other holes on the SLR. So how do I mount this to the wood? I don't want to drill holes in it if I am not supposed to. Won't drilling and attaching screws in random place hurt the reflection?

What if I skip the screws provided and buy longer screws to go into the clip through the hole in the reflector and the nut into the board.

Boy, now I am confused.....

[airborne_r6]

Before I explain this have you thought about how you are going to attach the electrical connections at each end of the bulb to the board. You may want to figure that out before you attach the reflectors to the board. I know with the top that I have designed (and no time to build) I have to adjust the reflector to match the electrical and cannot adjust the electrical to the reflector. In fact you may find that you can attach the electrical ends to the board and then simply clip the reflector to the bulb and do not need to attach the reflector to the board.

Originally Posted by sewingalot

Hmmm. Let me try this again. I suck at this wood working terminology, lol.

There are holes on each side that will hold the clip in place. The machine screw provided also has a nut and is only 1/4" long, so there isn't much left (really nothing) to put into the board.

The machine screws will not hold in the wood.

Originally Posted by sewingalot

Other than that, there is no other holes on the SLR. So how do I mount this to the wood? I don't want to drill holes in it if I am not supposed to.

What you want to do is find small wood screws that will go through the holes in the clip, through the corresponding holes in the SLR and then into the wood. This will hold the clip to the SLR and the SLR/clip combination to the wood with no nut.

Originally Posted by sewingalot

Won't drilling and attaching screws in random place hurt the reflection?

If you find that what I suggested above does not provide enough strength to hold the SLR to the wood you will not lose much reflected light by adding one or two more of the same screws out in middle of the SLR (I would guess at most two, each one third of the way from an end) directly above where the bulb will sit.

Originally Posted by sewingalot

What if I skip the screws provided and buy longer screws to go into the clip through the hole in the reflector and the nut into the board.

Exactly but change the screws to wood screws and eliminate the nut.

Originally Posted by sewingalot

Boy, now I am confused.....

If this is not clear let me know and I will try to draw a picture and post it tomorrow. The most important thing with DIY is to not get frustrated, trust me.

[sewingalot]

Thanks! I understand now. I found some wood screws downstairs that will fit perfectly into the clip and board.

I took the light apart temporarily this morning. There is not much to the lighting itself. The wiring is just kind of bunched up in the hood and I am trying to find a way to hold it in place on both sides. So I see what you mean by figuring out this part first before worrying about attaching the SLRs. There isn't any endcaps, just female plugs that push into the light sockets. I am not sure how to hold them in place at the moment.

[Wasserpest]

This is what (non-water-proof) endcaps look like. They have little holes where the wires can be pushed in, and then they are locked.

You can attach these endcaps to the wood canopy via little wood screws. The wires plug right in, and the bulbs can be easily twist locked in there.

If your tank doesn't have covers, moisture could be an issue and moisture proof (expensive) endcaps could be the better choice.

[sewingalot]

So as long as the light is high enough and I cover the top with glass, those will be fine?

[airborne_r6]

They should be.