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#1 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Obsessed
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Glass lined masonary tank.
I have constructed another 1000 litres hole in the wall tank using bricks and mortar for the rear and both sides, the front is to be all glass and the bottom is a concrete slab. The tank is built outward from the wall of my den and the glass front, where the wall used to be, would be the viewing side from my den.
Now I have built tanks like this before and have had no problems (except rectifiable minor ones) with them. What I intend to do next with this tank; is something I have never done before - line the 3 masonry sides with glass. I intend to use 5mm thick dark tinted glass, 27 inch high (water level to be 24") and paste them to the three sides with silicone. I would like all your advice to avoid any future problems - with the construction and the longevity of the tank.
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If you have a choice, you have a problem, till you elect your choice. No choice, no problem, only consequences, learn to live with them.
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#2 (permalink) |
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Aquascaper
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How long are the panes going to be? Are you basically using the glass as tiles, or do you want to use them as viewing windows?
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GLA 48 Rimless | 10 Reef | 7.2 Rimless Cube | 5.4 Rimless Nano | Pimp→ GLA #1 - Victor #49 - Eheim #298 ![]() |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Guru
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Do you have any earthquakes there? Masonry is very rigid, unable to flex with earth movements. I think glass bonded to masonry would tend to crack with even minor earth movement. Then, there is the thermal expansion to think about. The water in the tank would tend to hold everything at a stable temperature, but I don't know off hand whether the coefficient of thermal expansion for glass and bricks would be enough different to lead to problems. Glass bends when you apply stress to it, so if the support behind that thin glass, by the bricks, isn't even, you could cause a stress concentration that might lead to cracks. But, using a thick enough layer of silicone adhesive might solve all of the above potential problems.
Please, take lots of photos and share them with us. This is a very interesting idea.
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Hoppy
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#5 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Obsessed
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Yes, i would love to see pics of this! Just wondering though, if you have built masonry tanks before with no real issues...why even bother with the glass? Im guessing for maintenance issues...i would guess brick and mortar grows AND holds algae like nothing else! Which really isnt necessarily a bad thing. Just extra filtration, i almost never clean the back walls on my tanks for this reason. Anyway, just to say again...i would love to see some pics of this!!!
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#7 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Obsessed
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No earthquakes till the ultimate one which would convert me into a diamond.
I chose silicone sealant to attach the glass for the reason that expansion and pressure points would be isolated with its cushion effect. A smooth surface not only allows cleaning but also a surface for attachment of the several gadgets we aquarium hobbyist need in our tank.
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If you have a choice, you have a problem, till you elect your choice. No choice, no problem, only consequences, learn to live with them.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Obsessed
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Epoxy -------- The end result is soooooooo ugly. I rather use thicker glass or go back to my earlier material - granite.
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If you have a choice, you have a problem, till you elect your choice. No choice, no problem, only consequences, learn to live with them.
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#11 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Guru
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Wouldn't a good foundation prevent the settling and cracking? Fireplaces have been made of brick for many years, and they aren't especially prone to cracking. If a fireplace is built with an inadequate foundation it will settle and tilt or crack - I once had a house that demonstrated that (after I sold it!)
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Hoppy
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#12 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Obsessed
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Yes, foundation is everything. I'm sure he knows what he is doing with the masonry. I have seen lots of fireplaces settle and crack and they weren't holding all of that weight.
I'm thinking more about the glass shifting and cracking though as it potentially settles differently than the masonry around it. Two materials reacting to the environment differently.
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Eheim Pimp #381
Raleigh Aquarium Society Member |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Obsessed
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The base of this tank has been in place for 7 years. Actually the base was constructed in continuance with the first 1000 litre tank - the 'Incomparable' - and was lying vacant from that time. I housed the incubator of my "Madhatter" DIY CO2 on this base but now that I have a CO2 cylinder, the base has become unoccupied and so this project. It would need an earthquake to move or tilt the base as it is a 4" granite slab built resting on stilts raised from the concrete roof of the floor below.
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If you have a choice, you have a problem, till you elect your choice. No choice, no problem, only consequences, learn to live with them.
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#14 (permalink) |
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Moderately Obsessed
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My first thought was what Hoppy mentioned, about pressure points between the masonry and the glass. The glass will inevitably bow outward, toward the masonry. Unless the masonry is glass smooth, there will be points of higher tension, possibly leading to cracks. Just my first thought, good luck with the process!
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#15 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Guru
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Maybe if you use a plaster coat on the bricks, and make it very flat, that would eliminate any problems from pressure points. Of course the silicone would still be needed to cushion the back of the glass. I really would enjoy watching this being built, but photos will be almost as good.
I admit I'm having problem visualizing a 4 inch thick slab of granite sitting on stilts on a roof. Your house would be fascinating to visit - maybe my local aquatic plant club could arrange to hold our September meeting at your place? All we would need is to arrange some quick transportation there and back, so the guys could get back to work the next day.
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Hoppy
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