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Old 06-29-2009, 07:27 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunfire99 View Post
Now that's the truth.

I don't "defend" sumps, but would argue the claims that they are "not good for planted tanks". As for CO2 offgassing, my 5lb cylinder is approaching 3 months use in a 100 gallon display tank that uses a sump, and that's running CO2 12 hours per day. The sump is also an EXCELLENT mechanical filter. I use only a 100 micron filter sock on the overflow and it removes 4 or 5 times the gunk that the XP3 running in the same tank collects.
sunfire99 can you post of how you put the filter sock on the overflow box ? someone back then told me filter sock work really good , but the only way i can do it .it to put it right in my sump which i have to mod the sump for the sock , and i refuse .. show me how you do it ,i'll put that in my overflow and get rip of the eheim .
sorry for the hijack

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Old 06-29-2009, 09:06 PM   #17 (permalink)
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If you want to think of it as a canister filter you can.

Basically its a 2' X 2' X 1.5' canister in the shape of a box.

It will have (4) pre-filter chambers and (1) large bio-media chamber.
Will flow 50% more water than an FX5 and cost 50% less.

Trick with sumps and mechanical filtration is upflow design like
I have used. Water has nowhere to go but thru several inches of
filter floss.
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Old 06-30-2009, 12:08 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kali View Post
sunfire99 can you post of how you put the filter sock on the overflow box ? someone back then told me filter sock work really good , but the only way i can do it .it to put it right in my sump which i have to mod the sump for the sock , and i refuse .. show me how you do it ,i'll put that in my overflow and get rip of the eheim .
sorry for the hijack
Mine is in the sump. Here's a picture of it. You can see it in the back there at the inflow to the sump. I have a bulkhead fitting there, and the pipe in the sump that the filter is tied to extends down into the water. When I need to "clean" it I just turn off the return pump, remove the pipe with filter sock attached, turn it inside out and remove any snails that I want to keep and replace it with a clean one. I run the dirty bag through the washer with no soap, and let it hang dry. I din't fix the sock more permanently to the pipe because I figured if the sock becomes badly clogged with dirt the inflow may slide it off the pipe and not cause a flood. I clean it monthly and it hasn't been close to clogged to the point of not allowing water flow. I cleaned my canister one time in the past 2 months and it had very little dirt compared to what the sock collects.
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Old 06-30-2009, 12:24 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunfire99 View Post
Mine is in the sump. Here's a picture of it. You can see it in the back there at the inflow to the sump. I have a bulkhead fitting there, and the pipe in the sump that the filter is tied to extends down into the water. When I need to "clean" it I just turn off the return pump, remove the pipe with filter sock attached, turn it inside out and remove any snails that I want to keep and replace it with a clean one. I run the dirty bag through the washer with no soap, and let it hang dry. I din't fix the sock more permanently to the pipe because I figured if the sock becomes badly clogged with dirt the inflow may slide it off the pipe and not cause a flood. I clean it monthly and it hasn't been close to clogged to the point of not allowing water flow. I cleaned my canister one time in the past 2 months and it had very little dirt compared to what the sock collects.
the op you said that in the overflow box thats why i asked ..... i know that can put in the sump but right under in inflow is my bio -ball tower. its the same height at the sump and will only be good right under the inflow for better bio-filter , if i move it the bio ball only wet where ever the water raising up to . dont know where to move that anyways neat sump set- up you got there
hey rbarn : sorry dude didn't mean to hijack your thread ...
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Old 06-30-2009, 02:33 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Will you, or do you, have to keep the sump totally dark all the time to avoid algae growths in it? I know the biofilm is largely bacteria, which is beneficial, but algae should grow if there is light. My fear of sumps is that I keep thinking of them as just another aquarium tank I would have to keep cleaning periodically, but this one would be down in the cabinet under the tank, where access would be difficult. (I don't mind exposing my ignorance of sumps.)
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Old 06-30-2009, 02:25 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Would probably grow algae if exposed to enough light.

the one under my 60 gal. gets a little ambient light from the back, but
has yet to grow any algae at all.
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Old 07-01-2009, 12:35 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Will you, or do you, have to keep the sump totally dark all the time to avoid algae growths in it? I know the biofilm is largely bacteria, which is beneficial, but algae should grow if there is light. My fear of sumps is that I keep thinking of them as just another aquarium tank I would have to keep cleaning periodically, but this one would be down in the cabinet under the tank, where access would be difficult. (I don't mind exposing my ignorance of sumps.)
Saltwater keepers use a strong light on an emersed screen or tank divider to intentionally grow algae and soak up nitrates and phosphates. However, this involves putting a strong light under the stand where the screen is. I would think that light leakage into a stand (or, say, an under-stand light that's only on when equipment is being serviced) shouldn't cause a problem.

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Old 07-01-2009, 03:19 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I have used lights over a sump for macro algae nitrate filters on salt tanks and the cabinet on this tank was built to house a light also but not using it. With no regular light being used on this one my sump has had zero algae issues.
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Old 07-01-2009, 07:59 PM   #24 (permalink)
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$150 in acrylic from Lowes and about 2 hrs work

Design is simplified. First system was going to be too much work to build.

This one has (2) mechanical filtration chambers 6" x 7" X 20" each
with up-flow design for zero bypass.

Bio media chamber is about 2.7 sq ft or right at 20 gallons.

Last chamber is for heaters, Co2, drip system, overflow drain and pump pick-up.

System should flow just under 700gph with an external Mag 9 return pump.





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Old 07-01-2009, 08:18 PM   #25 (permalink)
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dude that looking really good .. youre real handy man,
question : whats kind of glue to connect those join together?
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Old 07-01-2009, 08:36 PM   #26 (permalink)
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If I ever try this, and I am thinking about it, I will use a spare 10 gallon glass tank I have, and make the dividers out of acrylic. Or, try to make them out of glass, making each one a simple rectangle, no notches. Making the entire thing from sheet acrylic seems like a major headache to prevent any external leaks.

Please, please take photos of the build process. That is the key to doing this, it seems to me.
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Old 07-01-2009, 08:41 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Its called "Weld On"
comes in different grades that have to do with how thick a liquid it is.

I use Weld On #16 since my gaps aren't perfect.
Weld On #4 is thinner and used with perfect gaps.

Stuff is not a glue, but a solvent cement. Actually melts and refuses
the acrylic at a molecular level. Like a true "weld" with metal.

Leaks are non-issue. This solvent makes really nice seals, and on top
of that I run a small bead of silicone on the main shell's inside corners just in case.

You just use off the shelf pieces of acrylic from lowes. Tape them together
loosely and add cement. The cement weeps into seems and sets up in couple of hours.


Google: Working with acrylic. Lots of DIY artcls out there from the reef guys.

Excellent one
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/7/diy
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Old 07-05-2009, 06:40 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Little vid of the complete system planned.

Fairly rough, but everything is to scale

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Old 07-10-2009, 07:02 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Sump is finally done. Lid and all. Just need to install bulkheads and media.




Incorporated a Co2 diffusion area into the sump also.
Co2 will get knocked around in channels before getting sucked
up by pump and sent to tank. Should give 100% diffusion. Nowhere for
Co2 to go and by the time it makes it to the tank, should be full dissolved.

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Old 07-10-2009, 07:43 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Nice! Why didn't you make the CO2 area taller? It would allow for a higher drop and more swirling of CO2.
I see that you chose to hinge the lid. I assume you have enough clearance above the sump for that? I guess you need that room anyway for maintenance of the sump...
Very nice work! I need to make sure I bookmark this thread for when I get around to making something like this...
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