10 ft. Long Stand, Double Tank Advice

[User Name]

Originally Posted by intermediate_noob

What kind of wood did your buddy use for the face frame?

The wood is African mahogany which set him back $300+

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[intermediate_noob]

How did I know it was going to be something like that? Plywood it is!

[BiscuitSlayer]

Originally Posted by intermediate_noob

Awesome thread you got going over there, I posted all kinds of questions for you!

Thanks a lot IN. I have to tell you though, I think your the brains behind this operation.

[intermediate_noob]

Thought I would post an update, still no pictures, but hopefully that will change after today.

I have been gone for about two weeks and finally was able to head to my friends house (he has all the cool woodworking tools!) and get started on the stand for the 90 gallon side of this project.

The wood had been sitting in the dry, New Mexico weather (in a garage) for about two weeks and had dried more and started to warp. We built the bottom frame using the Kreg pocket-hole jig and all went well. However, the 2x6s were much worse than the 2x4s and the top frame was nowhere near square. So, we had two options. Joint and plane EVERYTHING to make sure that all the wood was the same size, or just build it as is.

Long story short, we (or I should say he) jointed and planed all of the wood. Basically the process flattens the wood and makes it square. I was amazed at the results. He stacked all of the pieces together in a pile and it was stable. Now you may say that this is the way it should be, but try doing that with your local hardware store wood! Even when you are being picky, it is very hard to get straight wood.

We are ready to begin the assembly today, just using different size wood. Normally 2x6s are approximately 1 1/2" by 5 1/2" and 2x4s are 1 1/2" by 3 1/2". The 2x6s now are 1 3/8" x 5 1/4" (shaved down 1/8" and 1/4" respectively) and the 2x4s are now 1 3/8" and 3 3/8" (shaved down 1/8" on both sides). This will drop the stand height by 3/8" but this is not a huge deal.

Anyway, just thought I would post the update. So after today I will have some pictures and be well on my way to getting this project off the drawing board and into my living room!

[BiscuitSlayer]

IN -

It is about time! I am looking forward to pictures. Im also itching to see how you do your electrical.

Sorry to hear about the lumber. It is funny how you had problems with the wood that I didn't have problems, and vise versa. Here I am suggesting to use 2 x 6s because of how true they are. Guess it kind of depends on where you live.

One word of caution (hopefully that you already know or read prior to starting). The outer measurements of the rims for a 75 / 90 in most cases is 48 3/8 by 18 3/8.

Can't wait to see the pics!

[intermediate_noob]

Hey there Biscuit!

Funny that you mention the outer frame of the 90 because my All Glass is actually 48.5 by 18.5 so we just realized that we will have to re-cut the shorter (front to back) members because we lost the width because of the jointing and planing. Well I guess the extra wood we had left over was a good thing.

Crap Crap Crap.... well it is off to my friends to continue the construction. Talk with you all later.

[intermediate_noob]

Well, I did not come home with the stand today , another mishap and more work. As per my last post, my friend had to cut new boards for the front to back pieces to ensure the full tank was supported. Then we had to joint and plane those as well. Here is one of them being planed:



So we started to assemble, and then realized, "Oh, the Jig was set for 1 1/2" wood, now it is 1 3/8" so we better change it." Then we found out the screws were too long, as seen here:



So out to Lowes and Homedepot only to find that no one carried the 2" Kreg specialty screws which are needed for the holes (panhead screws really, but could not find any 2" of those either). So we used some washers to shim the screws a bit. For the holes yet to be drilled, we are resetting the jig so that the screws will fit. Did not get to that, however.

So now the top and bottom frames are done. Here is a picture of the jointed and planed wood (left is jointed and planed, the right is a normal board):



And here is the mess we made from the other pieces of wood (and yes, that is how deep the shavings were):



Hopefully I can go over tomorrow and get more done. Ugh, I hate it when a plan doesn't come together.

[BiscuitSlayer]

IN -

Excellent start! Sorry to hear your running into some problems. I have a couple of questions and possible suggestions though that may or may not help.

Since you had to run the wood through the planer to get it level, I am a little confused as to how this would remove the warping from the lumber. I understand what a planer does, but I am a little confused as to how say an 8' piece of lumber is not going to be warped after running it through the planer. It would seem to me that after running it through it would be thinner but the warp might still be there. Any way to describe how the warp is actually removed this way? (Man that sounds like a total newb question!)

The one cool thing that would come from running it through the planer is that all of your wood should wind up exactly equal which should make your skin sit perfectly. That will really help depending on if and how you decide to add trim. I would imagine that any trim work would be pretty much perfect and you wouldn't have to do nearly as much sanding as I had to.

I understand the problem that you are having with the screws since your now using thinner wood. Did you ever consider just running the screw through and then hitting it with a file or dremel tool to file/cut the point of the screw off? If you skin the stand, you'd never see it.

Keep us updated! I love this stuff.

[intermediate_noob]

Hey there Biscuit, here are the questions and comments form your post. And thanks for the encouragement btw. I was totally bummed yesterday when I came home and this made it a little easier to take, so I appreciate it.

Originally Posted by BiscuitSlayer

IN - Since you had to run the wood through the planer to get it level, I am a little confused as to how this would remove the warping from the lumber. I understand what a planer does, but I am a little confused as to how say an 8' piece of lumber is not going to be warped after running it through the planer. It would seem to me that after running it through it would be thinner but the warp might still be there. Any way to describe how the warp is actually removed this way? (Man that sounds like a total newb question!)

Not a newb question at all, and I am the biggest newb of all. The jointer gets one side flat, the planer basically takes off a set amount. The warp these removed was not a "U" shape from left to right long ways, but a twist to the wood and a warp perpendicular to the grain.

So easier to visualize. You have a 2x6 that is 5' long. My wood was twisted, like if you were hold one side down and turn the other. Also, it was warped from front to back (the 5.5" width, not the 5' length) so that is why planing it helped. Now, as you said, if it was warped along the 5' length, then yes, you would have to plane it A LOT to get it into shape. However, that warp that you get along the length can be removed when you screw it together. Hope that makes sense.

Originally Posted by BiscuitSlayer

The one cool thing that would come from running it through the planer is that all of your wood should wind up exactly equal which should make your skin sit perfectly. That will really help depending on if and how you decide to add trim. I would imagine that any trim work would be pretty much perfect and you wouldn't have to do nearly as much sanding as I had to.

I hear you on that. The stand should be very easy to skin. I am amazed at how square it is. Even though it is not perfect, however. The friend who is helping me when he put it into perspective talking about Norm from "The Yankee Workshop". My friend said, "Even Norm has to sand." That made me feel better

Originally Posted by BiscuitSlayer

I understand the problem that you are having with the screws since your now using thinner wood. Did you ever consider just running the screw through and then hitting it with a file or dremel tool to file/cut the point of the screw off? If you skin the stand, you'd never see it.

Keep us updated! I love this stuff.

The screw going in that far means that less of it is actually in the wood, that is why we shimmed those 8 screws. With the others, we just change the jig and all is well. Or at least in theory.

I am going to head out to get more wood for the longer stand so it can sit for a few weeks to dry. Hopefully will have some more updates in a few weekends when I get back over to his house. Too many other things coming up now to keep working each day. Crap I wish I could win the lottery and build all day!

[User Name]

Originally Posted by intermediate_noob

Crap I wish I could win the lottery and build all day!

Got off to a rough start, but looks like you guys have it under control.
Are you sure about buying wood two weeks in advance for the next project?

I bought a 2x3 stud and left it in the garage for couple weeks, when I go around to it it was only good for fire wood.
I usually buy wood night before and go back for more if I run out.

[intermediate_noob]

Yeah, even though the wood does warp, I would rather it warp before I build than after. With the dry climate we have here it is just inevitable that it is going to dry out and warp.

I am going to go and look at another lumber yard sometime this week to determine if their stock is a little better. Maybe I can get lucky and find something a bit better. Honestly, this happens with all the wood I buy so I do not know why I thought this would be different. Anyway, things are working out well now so I am confident it will be done....someday

[BiscuitSlayer]

I have pretty good luck with the Lowes Top Choice lumber, but you have to use it quickly after you buy it. Once you get things together, you should be ok.

Thanks for answering those questions BTW. That really helped me visualize things.

Now hurry up and get some stuff built and post more pics!