10 ft. Long Stand, Double Tank Advice

[intermediate_noob]

Originally Posted by BiscuitSlayer

This thread has truely inspired me. I am going to wire it up with a GFCI with multiple receptacles controled by multiple switches. I am also going to install a couple of lights inside the stand so I can see stuff that I am working on, spills, etc.

The only one that doesn't like this thread is my wife. She has been giving me dirty looks since I started buying materials and building the stand. Once its done though she'll be happy with the end result.

Well I am glad I inspired someone, not so glad that it has caused marital issues . This thread had the same affect in my house too!

Just and update to everyone. I purchased the wood, the Kreg pocket hole jig, and some screws yesterday. The screws are a total rip-off, but I found a 2000 pack online for 45 dollars and thinking about getting it. The wood cost me 29.50 from Home Depot (this is just for the 48" tank"). I ended up having them just cut down (3) 20' 2x4s and (1) 20' 2x6. It was much cheaper than the smaller pieces. The jig was 35 dollars. So running total is 29.50, 33, and 5 for the screws or around 70 dollars thus far. I will keep everyone updated on the progress.

[Sponsors]

[BiscuitSlayer]

Originally Posted by intermediate_noob

Well I am glad I inspired someone, not so glad that it has caused marital issues . This thread had the same affect in my house too!

Just and update to everyone. I purchased the wood, the Kreg pocket hole jig, and some screws yesterday. The screws are a total rip-off, but I found a 2000 pack online for 45 dollars and thinking about getting it. The wood cost me 29.50 from Home Depot (this is just for the 48" tank"). I ended up having them just cut down (3) 20' 2x4s and (1) 20' 2x6. It was much cheaper than the smaller pieces. The jig was 35 dollars. So running total is 29.50, 33, and 5 for the screws or around 70 dollars thus far. I will keep everyone updated on the progress.

Damn, thats not bad. I am up to about $185, but that includes some oak plywood for the skin and brass hardware for the exterior. I can easily see spending another $80 to $100 on all of the trim pieces that I plan on getting. Consider yourself ahead of the game.

[plaakapong]

Originally Posted by intermediate_noob

I would really like to do something like that but I do not have the tools to have a floating panel. A friend who does have the tools also suggested gluing multiple boards together and then shaping them to resist warping.

A bigger question now is what and how big of doors for the 135. If I only go for two doors, those are close to three feet long. Big and heavy door.

Hi guys I'm new here and just happened onto this thread. Thought I'd throw in my 2cents. I've built and installed kitchens for years. Of course there are many ways to do things correctly, many opinions within the trades. Here's mine.
For floating panels 1/4 ply is the ticket. Also can use T&G paneling or wainscoting. Biscuits or splines will work better(than pocket screws) for putting your door frames together. You can run the frame stock on a table saw to get the groove for the panel. Or just make flat plywood(3/4) doors and edge them.
Overlay doors are MUCH easier than inset. Overlay-doors lay flat against the outside of the cabinet face. It's difficult, especially for non-woodworkers to get inset doors right.
You're asking for trouble with big/wide doors. I try to keep cabinet doors under 20in and under 18 if possible. Big wide doors are always in the way when open and inevitably warp and twist even if made from plywood.
If you have time tune in to the Yankee workshop, Norm is always building something with similar methods.
Good luck!

[over_stocked]

4x4's are bad news.

[Wasserpest]

This is a nice thread with loads of good info for DIY'ers. I will stick it to the top for a while.

[plaakapong]

Why are 4x4s bad news? If they're crap wood with big knots maybe? You can use a nice piece of 4x4 and let the cross-members in and have the same effect, I think better if done properly, as "sistering" two 2x4s together. Easiest way would be to curf-cut the dado with a skilsaw and knock the waste out with a hammer & chisel. I'd also consider something like countersunk carriage bolts in place of drywall screws for fasteners. Like someone else said screws have very little shear strength.
2x4s or 2x6s alone are likely enough as is a properly built plywood box similar to a kitchen cabinet. The important part is to tie it all together so things remain intact and vertical. Sheathing being the easiest and best way.

[over_stocked]

4x4's are seriously prone to warping and twisting--Thus pulling your stand appart.

2-2x4's glued and screwed would be much stronger and more likely to be true.

[intermediate_noob]

Thanks for the additional information on the doors, I am still undecided on how to go about building those. I was thinking of using a long door but have it "fold" much like a closet door would to be out of the way. Once again, I am still undecided.

I decided to go with 2x4s for the vertical members and 2x6s for the horizontal. I have the wood and am raring to go but other weekend and week night activities have postponed the build. However, I will surely keep you all posted on my progress. I am thinking in a week or two I will have something together.

[User Name]

Originally Posted by Wasserpest

This is a nice thread with loads of good info for DIY'ers. I will stick it to the top for a while.

I agree, great idea. Let's add more value to the thread.
My buddies project:

[plaakapong]

Originally Posted by over_stocked

4x4's are seriously prone to warping and twisting--Thus pulling your stand appart.

2-2x4's glued and screwed would be much stronger and more likely to be true.

Like I said, if you buy crap lumber at Lowes that's what you'll get. Not all 4x4s are created equal.


Nice one Username!

[BiscuitSlayer]

Originally Posted by plaakapong

Like I said, if you buy crap lumber at Lowes that's what you'll get. Not all 4x4s are created equal.


Nice one Username!

I think you can use 4 X 4s, but you get more support area by using two 2 X 4s to distribute the load from the top frame to the lower frame. If you use a 4 x 4, you would need to notch it so that it sits in the upper and lower frames. Because of this, you would loose wood that would make contact with the upper and lower frames.

If you use intermediate noob's design, you use a "floating" 2 x 4 to attach the upper and lower frames and then surround that 2 x 4s. The 2 more 2 x 4s on each leg allows for more load distrobution.

I have the frame finished and now I am working on electrical and finishing wood. I have taken pictures, but I haven't had a chance to post them yet. As soon as I upload the images, I am going to start another journal thread on my stand and canopy. Hopefully some people will be able to see the fantastic design aspects of the frame through some of my pictures.

[intermediate_noob]

Originally Posted by User Name

I agree, great idea. Let's add more value to the thread.

Thanks for the awesome pictures. I think you have added more value to the thread than I have What kind of wood did your buddy use for the face frame?

Originally Posted by BiscuitSlayer

I have the frame finished and now I am working on electrical and finishing wood. I have taken pictures, but I haven't had a chance to post them yet. As soon as I upload the images, I am going to start another journal thread on my stand and canopy. Hopefully some people will be able to see the fantastic design aspects of the frame through some of my pictures.

Cannot wait to see the pictures Biscuit! Totally understand if you want to start your own journal/thread, but please feel free to post them here if you like. I think this has grown more into a "best practices" thread than just mine anyway. Thanks again for all your contributions all!

[BiscuitSlayer]

I was just going to start my own thread so that we didn't take away from this thread's topic. I didn't want to start a hijack. I will definately post a pic of the basic frame and link to my thread from here. This thread deserves the credit for getting me off my rear and getting it done!

Thanks IN!