10 ft. Long Stand, Double Tank Advice

[User Name]

Showed you examples of some good stand designs.
Here is an example of a bad one. Do you see the problem?
Solution? Add 3/4" plywood under the tank, to cover the entire top between the 2x6s do disperse the weight to the vertical 4x4s.
He's filling it with water today, I'll keep you posted. I'm sure it will hold but for how long.

Again, not my tank.
Posting opion based on other's opinions.

[User Name]

more...

[imeridian]

Oh geez. That's pretty much the sort of design that was most common when I designed mine. All that shearing weight put on the screws holding it together is crazy. ...in addition to the obvious lack of lateral stability that sheathing it would bring. The mitered corners take the cake for bad joints... it's the worst that can be. The builder might think that stand is all beefy and stable, but it's really more like a house of cards with a big ol' tank of water on top.

[intermediate_noob]

Has someone told him of the risks? Or is he just going to be sheathing the tank later? Wow, and I thought I made bad designs.

Also, I have looked around my house at some of the "weathered" wood that is around here because we have a lot of it. Problem is that it is a little too old so I will need to buy more. I am hoping some of them are open on Sundays so I can take a look.

While we are on the subject of stands, what about doors?

[kornphlake]

Do what you want when you build your stands, make it out of solid concrete if it makes you sleep better at night. I suggest you stay away from automobiles and airplanes though if you think that a conservative safety factor isn't enough.

Many experienced woodworkers will recommend you purchase doors, unless they are very simple it's difficult to get professional results unless you have very expensive professional equipment. There are plenty of places that sell standard and custom cabinet doors, I've seen prices for a door ~12"x18" in the neighborhood of $30 for mid grade, common hardwood, which isn't too unreasonable, lumber alone purchased at retail would account for about half that price.

[BiscuitSlayer]

Originally Posted by intermediate_noob

So here is my new design, the one for the 135 is just 2 feet longer. It is based on the template swylie sent in the link.



The thing I like about these stands is that there is no center, vertical brace for the 135. Although scary, after reading through the thread I think it will be OK. Thoughts?

Once again, if you did not see swylie's post, here is the link again to Reef Central:

Reef Central DIY Stands. I need to hang out in the reef forums more often!

intermediate_noob -

I have built 2 stands similar to the design that you posted. One was for a 125 and the other was for a 110 (high). I didn't use the 2 X 6 pieces as you did, but rather two 2 X 4's doubled up on all joints. I didn't skin the stands, but I did add a shelf to the lower half of the stand that tied into my horizontal supports. The stands were rock solid after they were built both before the tanks were on them and after once they were filled with water.

I am seriously considering building a stand for a 75 gallon tank with a design similar to yours.

When and if I ever get around to making the stand, I will post construction pics for oppinions.

Edit: The one thing I would do differently from your drawing is to bring the inside 2 X 4s down all the way to the bottom braces (on the ground).

[swylie]

Originally Posted by BiscuitSlayer

Edit: The one thing I would do differently from your drawing is to bring the inside 2 X 4s down all the way to the bottom braces (on the ground).

Read that ReefCentral thread. It's long, but there are some really interesting bits. People bring up that idea a couple of times, and the designer replies that he recommends against it. Those inner 2x4s are only included as "screw strips" to make assembly easier, so they could be 1x2 and not change a thing as far as the design is concerned. I guess they add a bit of resistance to twisting as well. I don't remember why he recommends those pieces be shorter, but he does.

[BiscuitSlayer]

Originally Posted by swylie

Read that ReefCentral thread. It's long, but there are some really interesting bits. People bring up that idea a couple of times, and the designer replies that he recommends against it. Those inner 2x4s are only included as "screw strips" to make assembly easier, so they could be 1x2 and not change a thing as far as the design is concerned. I guess they add a bit of resistance to twisting as well. I don't remember why he recommends those pieces be shorter, but he does.

The twist factor might very well be the reason. If you bring it all the way down as I stated, you would make it more difficult to allow the wood to settle in.

[User Name]

Originally Posted by kornphlake

Do what you want when you build your stands, make it out of solid concrete if it makes you sleep better at night.

Reminds me of this stand:

[User Name]

Originally Posted by intermediate_noob

Has someone told him of the risks? Or is he just going to be sheathing the tank later? Wow, and I thought I made bad designs.

Hey Noob, hope all these great ideas come helpful when you start building your stand.
Remember, the first stand you build, give it to your enemy, second to you friend and third keep for yourself.

Came as a surprise but he did listen and placed plywood under the tank.

[imeridian]

When it comes to doors, I did a mitered corner (with pocket screws) frame out of oak with a routed groove to hold a floating plywood panel. It was the easiest way I could think of to have results I'd be happy with.

[intermediate_noob]

Originally Posted by swylie

I don't remember why he recommends those pieces be shorter, but he does.

If you raise or lower those 2x4s they begin to bear the load of the tank which the designer did not want. All the weight should be transfered to the floor throw the corners. I read that thread five times already trying to glean everything I could from it. Hope that helps.

Originally Posted by indiboi

When it comes to doors, I did a mitered corner (with pocket screws) frame out of oak with a routed groove to hold a floating plywood panel. It was the easiest way I could think of to have results I'd be happy with.

I would really like to do something like that but I do not have the tools to have a floating panel. A friend who does have the tools also suggested gluing multiple boards together and then shaping them to resist warping.

A bigger question now is what and how big of doors for the 135. If I only go for two doors, those are close to three feet long. Big and heavy door. I have also been kicking around the idea of drawers. I would LOVE to have one or two deep drawers to put medications and food in them. I have only ever seen one stand with a drawer and he had the switches for his lighting in there. It was great.

I think it is Sketchup Drawing time. Oh, and I have to organize some kind of fundraiser for this thing. I don't need a Magic 8 Ball to know this is going to be expensive. Thanks again for all your help everyone.

BTW User_Name, that cinder block and metal beam stand is AWESOME. I would love to do something like that. However if I mentioned the removal of carpet to my wife...something tells me I would not be happy with the result.

[BiscuitSlayer]

Originally Posted by intermediate_noob

So here is my new design, the one for the 135 is just 2 feet longer. It is based on the template swylie sent in the link.



The thing I like about these stands is that there is no center, vertical brace for the 135. Although scary, after reading through the thread I think it will be OK. Thoughts?

Once again, if you did not see swylie's post, here is the link again to Reef Central:

Reef Central DIY Stands. I need to hang out in the reef forums more often!

intermediate_noob -

Thank you for explaining this design and posting the pic of the frame. I spent some time this week examining large stands (125 - 150 gallon), and I have to say that I don't like the integrity of the stock stands that are built for retail sales.

I have bought the majority of the materials needed to build a stand using your base design for a 75 gallon that I am going to be erecting soon. Thanks for sharing the information. Once I get it going, I'll send you a link to my build journal or post it in my signature.

[intermediate_noob]

Thanks Biscuit, I am glad that this thread helped someone besides me!

I am going to be getting the wood for mine this weekend in the hope of starting my build. Let's just hope it doesn't snow here! Hard to use powertools in the elements.

Keep us informed!

[BiscuitSlayer]

Originally Posted by intermediate_noob

So here is my new design, the one for the 135 is just 2 feet longer. It is based on the template swylie sent in the link.

The thing I like about these stands is that there is no center, vertical brace for the 135. Although scary, after reading through the thread I think it will be OK. Thoughts?

Once again, if you did not see swylie's post, here is the link again to Reef Central:

Reef Central DIY Stands. I need to hang out in the reef forums more often!

IN - I read the reefer thread from start to finish, and it specifically states that if you use 2 X 6 for the top frame, you should be good. If you are leary, you could always go with 2 X 8 for top frame. A standard 135 is 72" and he specifically states that 2 X 6 should do the job. Just an FYI, I built my top frame out of 2 X 6's and I can easily see it working for a 135. (I tend to go overboard some times).

I am going to have two vertical braces that transfer the load from the top frame to the bottom frame in the middle span, but I am going to use oak and it is going to be part of the finished look. I am going to attach cabinet doors but I want them to have some space in between the doors. Thats where the center brace is gong to come into play. One of my design ideas is that I want to use cam locks on the cabinets to keep my kids out of the stand. To do this, I kind of need something in between the doors anyway.

This thread has truely inspired me. I am going to wire it up with a GFCI with multiple receptacles controled by multiple switches. I am also going to install a couple of lights inside the stand so I can see stuff that I am working on, spills, etc.

The only one that doesn't like this thread is my wife. She has been giving me dirty looks since I started buying materials and building the stand. Once its done though she'll be happy with the end result.