10 ft. Long Stand, Double Tank Advice

[Hoppy]

Yes, but closer to:



With all of the dimensions the same: .25 inch wide groove, .25 inch deep, set .25 inches from the end. Then setting the table saw to cut them is easiest, and it is at least as strong as any other configuration.

[intermediate_noob]

Originally Posted by Hoppy

Yes, but closer to:



With all of the dimensions the same: .25 inch wide groove, .25 inch deep, set .25 inches from the end. Then setting the table saw to cut them is easiest, and it is at least as strong as any other configuration.

That does seem very easy, now if I only had a table saw...hmmm. I do have a 3/8" router bit that I bet I could do something like this. I will have to experiment. I am hoping, like you said, that I can set it once and then just space it with some type of makeshift jig to make the cuts for multiple parts. And with the dado set at .25" you can also run the groove the length for the bottom, correct?

Thanks again Hoppy, I really really appreciate it.

[Hoppy]

Originally Posted by intermediate_noob

That does seem very easy, now if I only had a table saw...hmmm. I do have a 3/8" router bit that I bet I could do something like this. I will have to experiment. I am hoping, like you said, that I can set it once and then just space it with some type of makeshift jig to make the cuts for multiple parts. And with the dado set at .25" you can also run the groove the length for the bottom, correct?

Thanks again Hoppy, I really really appreciate it.

You can set the dado head to cut .25 inch deep, then you cut all of the groves without changing the dado head setting or depth, including the groove along the bottom. It is a little harder than it sounds, because 1/2 inch plywood isn't 1/2 inch thick, and the tongue has to be slightly smaller than the groove. But, one trial cut or series of cuts on scraps, and you are set to go. As I recall, I always had to back off the dado depth a bit to make the rabbet, because of the thinner than 1/2 inch plywood. But, it takes only 3 setups, and the bottom groove is very non-critical if you use 1/4 inch hardboard for the drawer bottoms, since it is a true 1/4 inch thickness.

[lumpyfunk]

IN

He did build a box and then put the front on it.

Some day I will learn how to do all that drawing stuff on the devil box. . .but not for a while.

[intermediate_noob]

Originally Posted by lumpyfunk

IN

He did build a box and then put the front on it.

Some day I will learn how to do all that drawing stuff on the devil box. . .but not for a while.

Take a look at SketchUp. It is a free, 3D or 2D drawing program that is offered from Google. They have a great community and can use other people's drawings in your own. For example, there are some people out there that have built libraries of PVC fittings so you can plan your plumbing and so on and so forth. All the drawings on this thread (or mine I should say) are all using SketchUp. I have also drawn the layout for my backyard, my son's room, my son's bed, and a bunch of other items. They have great tutorials that will walk you through how to use it as well. Did I mention it was free?

Enough of my pitch for SketchUp. You can get it here: http://sketchup.google.com/

Or just read about. Thanks again for your help and input, it is greatly appreciated!

[intermediate_noob]

Well guess what, I actually worked on the stand today!

My friend and I got the plywood necessary for the bottom of the tank, the face frame, and the one side which will be covered. The face frame was made from 23/32" Arauco plywood that I picked up from Lowe's. The bottom was made from 15/32" plywood. We just put it through the table saw to get all the pieces to the right length. The side and the face frame will be joined together at a 45 degree bevel so the plywood plies will not show through.

The face frame was joined together using pocket holes and screws and it will be attached to the stand using biscuits and glue to avoid having to fill in any holes. We played around with some stain today and I think I might do a combination of dark walnut and cherry finishes to give it a dark overall color with a hint of red.

As far as the doors go, I have not decided on whether to purchase or to build. A guy in town is selling oak doors for $3-$7 which is SO much cheaper than building. I do not know the sizes however and he has not got back to me. We shall see.

Sorry for no pictures as of yet, but I should be able to get some tomorrow.

I will need to post the new plans for the double stand as things have changed because of a HUGE error on my part. The 135 gallon I thought I had is actually a 125 gallon which means the height of the tank does not equal that of the 90. Therefore I will not be butting the tanks up against one another but separating them with a small cabinet where I will keep my supplies and my CO2 tank. I do not have the full design setup in Sketchup, but hope to get to that this weekend as well.

So there you have it, actual progress!! And none too soon. My Geophagus sp. "Bahia Red" have paired off and the larger male has all but killed the two other males. I had to move them to other tanks so they could grow their fins back. As it sits today, they will have to go if I am to keep the pair. Anyone out there interested in these fish? They are approximately 5" long each. I have one pair and one male up for adoption. I would love it if someone here in Albuquerque could take them. They are acclimated to my water (pH of 7.5-7.8 and a KH of 6) and they actually breed in it. The only thing is they get territorial. Anyway, if anyone is interested locally, PM me and I can give you all the info.

Sorry for the dissertation, expect some pictures tomorrow.

[intermediate_noob]

Well let me just start out with some curse words: #!$@## %^#$^ &@$%!$$ !#!$!

Good, got that out of the way. So A) I suck at cutting wood on a table saw, B) Norm makes biscuit joints look easy, they are not, and C) We got the side done and that is about it.

All of that being said, at least we got something done and here are the pictures to prove it. The side panel and front face are going to be biscuited on, but the panels are warped and not cut exactly square so it made things interesting to say the least. More than likely we will take a flush cut bit on a router to finish everything off. I have got to get better with the table saw. The thing is SO wavy. Most of our time was spent remeasuring it all. It was a huge pain in the rear.

Anyway, on with the pictures.

Face frame all glued and screwed together.


Look at that wave!


Biscuit slots....


Biscuits in slots...


Why it is good to have friends with LOTS of clamps....


And a shot of the wavy 45 degree angle.


Next week we hope to do the front. The guy with the doors never got back to me so it may be back to Lowe's for some wood to build the doors.

Stay tuned!

[Wasserpest]

Glad to see some progress.

[bradac56]

Originally Posted by intermediate_noob

n above, I am REALLY concerned about finding straight wood. What do you all think?

Straight lumber is easy stop looking at 2x4's and upgrade to real wood go to Lowes/Home Depot/Menards and look at there southern yellow pine 2x12's which have less knots and are much straighter just rip them to size.

And instead of using 4x4's rip the boards down to 2x4 size (if you want) and then laminate them together after cutting mortises into them for the long stretchers which you can laminate full 2x12's into the mortises. If you really want to you could drill through the tenon's and put a lag bolt in it for a bit more strength.

- Brad

[Wasserpest]

So what's the best way to get a good square cut on a 2x if you don't have a miter saw? I have a table saw, but cutting an 8' 2x4 is a bit of a challenge... Circular saw? Rip saw by hand?

[sick lid]

Clamp a framing square to it, or screw another piece to it to act as a fence for your circular saw.

[DorianBrytestar]

all cuts depend on the stability of your work surface. If you are trying to hold the wood up and cut it at the same time, it will never be quality stuff.

You need a good work table, stops and the wood stable to make a good, solid, repeatable cuts.

For detailed stuff, I have a scrap piece of plywood on top of my work table. I then adjust the blade on the circular saw to be just a hair longer than the wood I am cutting. Set up stops and/or clams to hold the wood and go to town cutting through it.

[Wasserpest]

Makes sense, thanks!

[intermediate_noob]

Originally Posted by Wasserpest

So what's the best way to get a good square cut on a 2x if you don't have a miter saw? I have a table saw, but cutting an 8' 2x4 is a bit of a challenge... Circular saw? Rip saw by hand?

Something like this will work as well:

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip030228ws.html

or

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio.../rightNavHowTo

If you are going to cut a lot of 2xWhatevers then something like this is the way to go. I just happened to be given a Miter saw so I use it, but have used one of these before and sometimes its easier. Hope that helps as well.

[c_sking]

Biscuits in slots...


I am no wood worker but painting a biscuit defeats the point of it. They are supposed to swell with the moisture of the glue to get their strength. Or was this just in the way Well I guess the gorilla glue would not be as mandatory, anyway have a good day