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#47 (permalink) |
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Banned
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if the O2 and Co2 came thru 2 separate air lines into the reactor it would be fine. I would not T-value them together before the reactor. obviously the O2 pump would need to use a needle valve along the tubing on the way to the reactor in order to limit O2 introduction to bubbles per minute. You may need to use a longer and/or wider reactor tube to create a longer vortex thus more diffusion potential, and perhaps more GPH of water pressure from your powerhead or canister filter.
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#48 (permalink) |
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Wannabe Guru
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hmm, interesting i wouldnt use a pump for o2 (unless i have to?) and i would do it all externally so reactor size shouldnt be that much of a factor how would i go about doing it for dual o2 and c2 would my proposed 501 be powerful enough (im using a nano nearly 5g tank
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#49 (permalink) |
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Banned
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I honestly don't think a vortex reactor is practical at all for a 5gal tank as the reactor itself along with a powerhead would take up too much valuable growing space. you are better off using a disc or airstone diffuser, feeding your gas into your canister inlet, or using an external inline reactor along your canister outlet. If you insist on a vortex reactor, may I suggest experimenting with small plastic soda bottles until you reach the desired results. Keep in mind people pursue vortex reactors for their high gas volume diffusion potential, which really is not a relevant feature when serving only 5gal of water.
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#50 (permalink) |
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Wannabe Guru
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im not going to lie to you spypet i simply like hitech stuff i can build myself and the vortex ticked all the right boxes *looks ashamed*.
i realy like the concept and ill almost certainly use one if i go bigger im interested to see the final outcome of this thread though vortex reactors have to be one of if not the best way of geting c2 into the system, shame ones over kill for my 5g |
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#51 (permalink) |
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Banned
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if you want something hi-tech for your nano try one of these spiral diffusion disk glass models sold all over ebaY. personally I hate diffusion disks because they require cleaning, but until you get a bigger tank, something like this is tiny, will look awesome, and still satisfy your vortex shaped fantasies. oh, and don't bother diffusing O2 into a 5gal nano as it really is not necessary at all in a planted tank since the water surface and plant O2 respiration are already providing all the O2 the limited bioload of a 5gal tank could ever need.
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#52 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Enthusiast
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I like the vortex design. I use a regular PVC Reactor designed by Rex that I built and works just fine. No noise. No loss of C02. 100 % desolved C02. But I don't know how large a tank this one will be able to handle though.
__________________
10 gallon hospital tank.
29 & 50 gallon - High Tech C02 enriched. 50 gallon Pond - Natural. See my Blog for Tank Spec's http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/blog.php?b=607 How to Move with Fish, Tank, & Plants, 2200 miles http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/blog.php?b=661 +site:plantedtank.net "" |
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#56 (permalink) |
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Banned
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Thanks for the bump, guys.
24 hours later and it's still going strong as the course sand cycles back into the center. my Endler's are really getting a kick out of it. during the day it looks like a water geyser and at night it looks like a lava flow vent. since I'm using my reactor outflow, all I need was some 1/2" tubing and a plastic elbow. but the key element is that gravel which is round, uniform in size, and relatively heavy. it's called Peace River Sand from CaribSea. what's interesting is the sand movement takes ALL the flow energy out of the out rushing water, so my tank water is dead still unless I add a separate water mover. |
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#57 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Guru
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You can easily get this same effect with the old design I used, a nice little tornado of bubbles of various sizes.
This adds more surface to flow area= more efficacy. That's the whole idea with micro bubbles and disc also, I just recirculate them a bit more and as the gas builds up, the venturi purges the false gas. Adding a restriction (the cap with a smaller outflow) at the bottom reduces flow and allows a larger single bubbles tornado. The Plant Guild Reactor and several other DIY things add a sponge to save these bubbles. You get better results by NOT saving these bubbles after the gas starts to build up. For a rate of dissolution, you cannot merely add gas to a reactor a run for 1 minute. Time of running and time of day are also important, a sustained rate of dissolution is quite another matter in other words. The open end to the reactor tube allows a nice gentle flow, no need to have a high point source flow. This also allows only tiny micro bubbles out, just like a glass disc. Dissolving gas in other words is not the main goal although part of it to some degree, adding CO2 to grow plants well is the goal. By purging the false gas and making the mist, you have better results and these may be measured using a O2 meter to gauge plant growth rates. Disc work in a similar manner when combined with gentle current. CO2 gas is cheap, a stable method to mist the plants with CO2 seems to give the best(versus ones that also work) results, both myself and Amano seem to think so. Regards, Tom Barr
__________________
www.BarrReport.com >(///)> The monthly Aquatic Plant Horticulture journal
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#58 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Enthusiast
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Do you think it will work well in the same way except attached to a FilStar xP3 output? With the spraybar at the end of the bottle at the bottom? That is what I am testing...
EDIT: My reactor is a small 6 inch long hamster water bottle. The spraybar attaches to the outlet. A hole is drilled at the top on the side for the water input. CO2 will enter from the top of the bottle. Is the bottle too small for diffusion?
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Rena Filtstar #137!
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#59 (permalink) |
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Banned
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a reaction bottle AND spraybar might be too much water resistance for
your Co2 gas input and your canister filter to handle properly. using the hamster bottle will be fine as long as you regulate the outflow using the XP3's valve so that not too many bubbles spit out the bottom |
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